tsofian | 31 Mar 2016 11:07 a.m. PST |
The lead mound let me free to ask a question: How do you know when a figure is ready for the table? I'm doing 15/18mm from a variety of manufacturers. I started with a single color spray coat. I have been adding flesh tones, a wash and dry brush on the base color. I'm doing belts and boots as needed. I will be painting weapons (rifles with two colors wood/metal, plus maybe the sling) When am I done? Do I need to do full faces? Do I need to do buttons? When can I get out the spray sealer and then flock these puppies? |
Bashytubits | 31 Mar 2016 11:08 a.m. PST |
Your inner muse will tell you so. |
tsofian | 31 Mar 2016 11:10 a.m. PST |
If that was true it would have been with the spray can! |
Jozis Tin Man | 31 Mar 2016 11:31 a.m. PST |
When they good at arms length. I have the same struggle, currently painting 28mm Normans. I am finding that Army Painter Quick Shade is my friend, but even so, that last couple of batches I had to bite the bullet and brush dip them, even though I was not 100% sure they were ready. I was not disappointed and they turned out fine. You will always be your worst critic, don't let that hold you back from playing. Ok painted figures on the table are better than pro painted figures that never roll dice. |
nukesnipe | 31 Mar 2016 11:44 a.m. PST |
I find that painting minis is a "job" that you can do to your personal satisfaction. For gaming purposes, I probably way overdo it, but I'm mildly OCD to begin with… Regards, Scott Chisholm |
Twoball Cane | 31 Mar 2016 12:04 p.m. PST |
I'm done when the minis tell me to stop :p |
Chgowiz | 31 Mar 2016 12:10 p.m. PST |
I paint to play, not paint to show. Some figures tell me "do me really good" and I take my time. Some figures are rank and file, or monsters meant to be killed quickly (the players hope) and removed from the table. Almost all of my minis are what I would call "tabletop" quality. Minwax dipped. Some have some highlighting, I'm experimenting with a bit of that. I'm thinking about trying the Foundry method of painting. So I keep trying new things. But at the end of the day, if I look at a figure and I'm happy with it, then it's finished. |
Timmo uk | 31 Mar 2016 12:40 p.m. PST |
When you realise you are putting on paint over paint, over paint. Two tones is enough I think with 18mm. I paint mine like many folk paint 10mm. I leave a lot of the fussy stuff off as I can't paint it in scale. The only exception to this is mounted officers when I go mad and they get the works. |
Flashman14 | 31 Mar 2016 1:37 p.m. PST |
If it's sculpted, I paint it. If you can do it, do it. |
Moe the Great | 31 Mar 2016 3:12 p.m. PST |
I'm done when my wallet tells me I can't afford any more painted figures. =) Actually I find the more I play the better the figures look. Or should I say, they might not seem done on the paint table but once I get them in a game My opinion changes. |
robert piepenbrink | 31 Mar 2016 4:37 p.m. PST |
You are done painting four days before the game. One day to base, one day to grass, one day to matte, and one good night's sleep prior to combat. (In an emergency, you're done three nights prior to the game. Matting doesn't take long, and you don't really HAVE to sleep.) Lead mountains--and I have more than my share--stem from an imbalance between hobby money and actual games. The alternative theory is in two parts. 20mm-1/72 or smaller go on multiple figure stands, and are painted to "acceptable at arm's length." Prime in uniform color pick out flesh and equipment, either wash or drybrush. (Black prime at 15mm and under.) Bigger and individually-based figures get an undercoat with either wash or dampbrush, coat color dark wash drybrush and any sculpted detail. But have skirmish rules handy. Never get into a situation in which you have to have several hundred such figures before you fight your first battle. Also remember that, being individually mounted, you can always go back and fix them later. |
tberry7403 | 31 Mar 2016 4:55 p.m. PST |
I put on just enough paint to prevent the paint-nazis from stomping off in a huff at the sight of primer or (horror-of-horrors) bare metal. But even when I extend myself I have yet (and I've been painting/playing since the '70s) to paint a face I truly like. |
AussieAndy | 31 Mar 2016 5:07 p.m. PST |
I paint until I can't see any obvious errors. |
FusilierDan | 31 Mar 2016 8:10 p.m. PST |
+1 to AussieAndy. And if I spot the error later I live with it. |
Volstagg Vanir | 31 Mar 2016 8:20 p.m. PST |
When the additions stop making the figure 'better'. It does reach a point where any more effort is a net loss instead of a gain, aesthetically; The trick is to know where that line is, and stop on the right side of it. |
Coyotepunc and Hatshepsuut | 31 Mar 2016 8:26 p.m. PST |
I paint figures separately from bases most of the time. Once a figure is attached to a finished base, it is done. Once, I had a long gap of time between starting and finishing some figures. I did not realize three of them had missed eyes and secondary shading. I glued them to their bases. No eyes or secondary shading for them! The bad news is that they were archers, and the lack of eyes has affected their accuracy… |
Grelber | 31 Mar 2016 9:26 p.m. PST |
I had the same problem with 15mm Napoleonic Saxons--my one foray into Napoleonics. At some point after doing eyes and buttons, I just decided to call it quits. Grelber |
Cyrus the Great | 31 Mar 2016 10:10 p.m. PST |
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jwebster | 31 Mar 2016 11:45 p.m. PST |
@ OP When am I done?
There are two extremes 1) I don't care about painting, just get them on the table. Here some paint is good, be done whenever you feel like it. The danger is that your painting never improves. I suggest once in a while try something different, like dip, washes, shading, highlighting. If you like it and it doesn't seem too time consuming, use it going forward. Washes or dip make a huge difference. 2) I love painting. I have to get every detail. The danger is that you don't get many figures on the table. Combine this with an "Oooh shiny" attitude and your lead mountain grows at an alarming rate. Even my daughter commented on my lead mountain today :( Here you need some kind of mental cutoff point or an original plan for the unit that you follow strictly. I would offer more advice but I suffer from this pretty badly. I usually am bored with a unit so it is done when very nearly done. One rule I follow is when you learn something new in painting, don't go back and repaint old figures. You will never get anything finished then Another piece of advice is to paint a whole unit at the same time, so that the painting style is consistent I hope my comments are useful – usually I just try to make bad jokes. Last point – if you are going to paint buttons, make sure they are the correct colour and that you paint the correct number of buttons John |
IanKHemm | 01 Apr 2016 6:42 a.m. PST |
I have two different standards: 1 – Large Armies – I paint them accurately but use block colours and do little details that are obvious (sword handles/belt buckles, etc.). Give them a coat of wash. Matt varnish and base. 2 – Small Skirmish games – Lost of detail and shade them well. They are only a few figures so I want them to look perfect. |
tsofian | 01 Apr 2016 4:41 p.m. PST |
I think this might be very close to the truth! "You are done painting four days before the game. One day to base, one day to grass, one day to matte, and one good night's sleep prior to combat. (In an emergency, you're done three nights prior to the game. Matting doesn't take long, and you don't really HAVE to sleep.) Lead mountains--and I have more than my share--stem from an imbalance between hobby money and actual games." |
etotheipi | 01 Apr 2016 4:51 p.m. PST |
I'm usually done when SWMBO says, "Get that off the table!" |
tsofian | 02 Apr 2016 2:30 p.m. PST |
I just want to know what cruel person sculpted the chin straps on Blue Moon's 15mm Ghrukas? That is just mean sprited! |
jwebster | 03 Apr 2016 11:03 a.m. PST |
You are done painting four days before the game. One day to base, one day to grass, one day to matte, and one good night's sleep prior to combat. (In an emergency, you're done three nights prior to the game. Matting doesn't take long, and you don't really HAVE to sleep.) Lead mountains--and I have more than my share--stem from an imbalance between hobby money and actual games.
I realised this was true yesterday. Flocked Friday, losing their first game Saturday – I thought Vikings were more manly than that but they said they had some issues with their General and his dice rolling. I also realise now that the second point about the lead mountain is also true for me John |
ced1106 | 07 Apr 2016 5:24 p.m. PST |
+1 to Volstagg. It's the 80/20 rule. At some point, which is past basecoat (and shading and highlighting), the amount of work you need to paint to the "next level" exceeds the return of how much of the miniature gets painted (eg. when small details take as much time to paint as basecoating), especially when you include the increased risk of making an error (eg. stray brushstroke). |