Extra Crispy | 22 Mar 2016 6:28 a.m. PST |
So what is the strongest glue for metal on metal? Want to glue some MicroArmor to steel bases prior to painting and wondering – epoxy or super glue? Something else? |
Pictors Studio | 22 Mar 2016 6:33 a.m. PST |
Epoxy is stronger but more difficult to work with. Superglue works pretty well but is somewhat fragile. Another option is hot glue if the surface is big enough. |
alexjones | 22 Mar 2016 6:34 a.m. PST |
Two part epoxy. One part is resin and the other hardener which are mixed before application. It is known as araldite here, could be the same in the US, not sure. It is the best I've found and bonds metal heads to bodies better than anything else I know. |
Garand | 22 Mar 2016 6:53 a.m. PST |
I use epoxy for much of my metal-to-metal bonding, in 3 different types depending on what I am doing (60-sec for parts that don't need large amounts of strength -- well keyed or ones I pin, as well as 5-minute for stronger bonds or 20-min for the strongest that I don't have to hold together until it cures). That being said, I was working on some microarmor the other night, and opted for superglue for convenience. IMHO if the part will not be under stress (like the turret on a microarmor tank), superglue works fne and is more convenient. Damon. |
Psycho Rabbit | 22 Mar 2016 7:07 a.m. PST |
I have found Devcon 5 minute epoxy to be the best. Rabbit |
GarrisonMiniatures | 22 Mar 2016 8:19 a.m. PST |
If it's a good fit I use superglue – but superglue does go off so 'fresh' superglue works a lot better than glue that has been open for even a short while. Once glued, I also tend to drip extra glue over the joint to fill any minor crevices. |
emckinney | 22 Mar 2016 8:28 a.m. PST |
I've never figured out how to hold parts together for 5 minutes while the epoxy sets. |
Mirosav | 22 Mar 2016 8:46 a.m. PST |
Depending on what I am gluing, I use either a 5-minute 2-part epoxy or Loctite superglue gel. |
Fish | 22 Mar 2016 9:04 a.m. PST |
I've actually used PVA (!) to glue micro armor to bases (and 15mm cavalry to horses). A clubmate taught me that trick. Sure it takes a long while to cure, but it work sway better than epoxy or superglue since the glue is more flexible. This way the miniature will not snap off. |
Sgt Slag | 22 Mar 2016 9:32 a.m. PST |
If in the States, try JB Weld -- a 2-part epoxy made specifically for bonding metals together. Used it back in the 80's for metal mini's. Had a neighbor who sealed a cracked oil pan on an SUV, using it. Lasted quite a while before I lost track of the owner, over a year of driving it daily. Cheers! |
jwebster | 22 Mar 2016 10:05 a.m. PST |
gap filling superglue or Instacure+ It's not going to be as strong as epoxy, although roughing the surfaces will help In the states, the Bob Smith industries epoxies are great – two separate bottles and really easy to use, a couple of drops of each, toothpick and ready to go. John |
KimRYoung | 22 Mar 2016 12:13 p.m. PST |
Sinbad Glue! Nothing, and I mean nothing, I have ever used has worked as good as this. sinbadglue.net Better then any epoxy or commercial "Super Glue" I ever tried. I have glued together large old metal 40K models like a Blood Thirster with it, dropped it and it still held together! Bought this product at Origins many years ago for the first time when the guy had a both set up, and to this day have found nothing that comes even close. You can only order it on their web sight, but it is well worth it. Follow the directions they send (keep refrigerated too) and you won't use anything else again ever. Kim |
nevinsrip | 22 Mar 2016 12:47 p.m. PST |
Loctite Professional super glue. Nothing better. |
GarrisonMiniatures | 22 Mar 2016 1:05 p.m. PST |
'I've actually used PVA (!) to glue micro armour to bases (and 15mm cavalry to horses).' I don't glue figures to bases. I add paint to body filler to the required base colour, put the body filler on the base, and then the figure directly into the filler. As the filler can glue tiles to a wall or similar I figure it's quite strong enough – it is! link
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Wolfshanza | 22 Mar 2016 10:51 p.m. PST |
LOCTITE super glue, ultra gel control. Black and blue squeeze container. |
Timmo uk | 23 Mar 2016 8:31 a.m. PST |
As above Loctite or Devcon. I glue on all my pikes with superglue as it goes brittle over time and this creates a weak link. I'd rather the pikes popped off than got bent. Easy to re-gule a straight pike than hope to straighten a bent one still attached to a figure. Things that I want to be more secure I'll use epoxy or I'll solder. @emckinney I use Blu-tak to hold things in place while the epoxy cures. If you are in the US I'm not sure what the equivalent brand is but there will be the same stuff on sale for sure. |
steamingdave47 | 23 Mar 2016 3:10 p.m. PST |
@Wolfshanza. I find I waste most of the glue in these packs, really hard to squeeze out, although what I do get out is pretty good. |
Chgowiz | 29 Mar 2016 9:03 a.m. PST |
Holding parts together while epoxy sets – I use "sticky tack" poster/blue tack as well. Or painters trim blue tape. I've even used a bit of superglue first, then filled in the gaps with epoxy. Especially for attaching riders to mounts. |
Cicero | 30 Mar 2016 6:47 p.m. PST |
You can use regular kitchen Baking Soda powder as an accelerant / gap filler for superglue. I would recommend experimenting on a 'test' model first though. Once dryed it can be filed or sanded. |