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"Adobe Buildings 25-28mm" Topic


16 Posts

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1,189 hits since 30 Jan 2016
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Comments or corrections?

10thMountain30 Jan 2016 1:07 p.m. PST

Hello,
Can any one recommend where I can get hand painted Adobe buildings for 25-28mm scale?

45thdiv30 Jan 2016 1:47 p.m. PST

Take a look at Crescent Root. Their mid east range does well for adobe.

link

And the come painted and can be flat packed for easy storage in the box the came in.

Coyotepunc and Hatshepsuut30 Jan 2016 1:49 p.m. PST

I do mine in papercraft. "Desert Village" is great: link I know papercraft isn't everyone's cup of tea, but if it is an option for you, why not?

Ashokmarine30 Jan 2016 1:50 p.m. PST

Here you go

link


link

Ashokmarine30 Jan 2016 1:50 p.m. PST

And here

link

nevinsrip30 Jan 2016 1:55 p.m. PST

For a sheet of foamcore and a tub of spackle you can make a whole town in one night. Most of these buildings are simple boxes that anyone can make.
There are dozens of simple "how to's" all over the net.
Save yourself some cash and make your own.

Timmo uk30 Jan 2016 2:50 p.m. PST

As Nevinsrip writes they are dead easy to make and perhaps more satisfying having done so. My method would be card and Das clay with plasticard for details like doors. If you want any number of them they'll cost you a fortune buying commercial items. By making your own you can create exactly what you want and they will probably look a bit more natural – the MDF ones all look a bit sterile to me but YMMV.

Hafen von Schlockenberg30 Jan 2016 6:16 p.m. PST

2nd Nevinsrip and timmo,and you can cut out pieces of printout or what I used, embossed commercial card printed with brick pattern,glue them to the walls, and spackle around the edges,for that exposed brick look. Some mix sand into the spackle to provide roughness,and a very thin wash with black or dark brown is nice. To dirty them up further,a brown spray is a good effect,start at the bottom and go lighter on the way up. I faked an airbrush effect by holding a piece of card an inch or so away from the surface.

If you plan on doing a lot of them, consider making some templates out of card--that way, you can save time on measuring all those doors and windows for people to shoot/get thrown out of.

And there are sites with lots of planking for roof material.

Timmo uk31 Jan 2016 3:55 a.m. PST

I can scribe in brick detail into the clay. It makes for a nice simple but very enjoyable way of working to get exactly what I want. Sure it probably is more time consuming but it looks very natural. These days I think I probably prefer making buildings to painting figures so I don't mind the time spent.

Hafen von Schlockenberg31 Jan 2016 8:43 a.m. PST

Timmo,that does sound interesting--would you mind describing your method in more detail? It sounds like you make the building out of card,and then cover it with DAS,is that right? Does the clay stick by itself? I'm not sure I'd trust my ability or patience in inscribing brick, though I can see that it would,or could, probably look more realistic than the printed card I used.

They do sound heavy,though,but I'm just going by my limited,and fumbling,experience with DAS.

45thdiv31 Jan 2016 10:04 a.m. PST

I dont think the op was on how to make them, but where to buy finished and painted buildings.

Hafen von Schlockenberg31 Jan 2016 11:51 a.m. PST

You're right of course, 45th,and nevinsrip, Timmo,and I have been indulging in a bit of thread hijacking. As 10thMountain asked about "hand painted" buildings,it would seem that price is not a concern. N and T were,I assume,acting out of kind-hearted regard for a fellow wargamer. I,as a person of (ahem) limited means, am always interested in saving money!

tinned fruit Supporting Member of TMP31 Jan 2016 12:17 p.m. PST

I do a few and post worldwide:-

auction

Kind regards

Phil

RKE Steve31 Jan 2016 4:23 p.m. PST

Gamecraft miniatures. Great stuff.

Timmo uk01 Feb 2016 4:17 a.m. PST

Hafen von Schlockenberg is correct – just trying to suggest some options that could save the OP a lot of money depending on how many buildings are required since they are not difficult to make. As always it's a balance between time and money. With no time but spare cash buying in makes sense. However, given the option making the buildings yourself gives you far more control over what they will look like. Even buying say ten buildings is quite expensive. Too expensive for me.

To describe my method in a bit more detail:
I use the corrugated card that the cartons for my cat's food is made from. It's very stable and actually good quality for this purpose. I have an endless and essentially free supply of the stuff. One side is absorbent card but the other is glossy printed. You can cut the corrugated back part off leaving just the gloss surface at the edges where each wall joins and this way you can get fabulously precise corners, if you want them.

Use Deluxe Roket card glue – it's amazing for this kind of work. It's like superglue for card. Don't use PVA, it takes long to dry. Once the building is made and has lot of internal bracing added each wall is covered with PVA in turn (let one dry before doing the next). The gloss surface makes the glue pool but if you work fast it doesn't matter. Add the Das clay over the wet PVA. Roll the clay down into the wall surface, sideways pressure as you roll will only make the whole lot just slip off the wall.

The Das clay is rolled out using a round pen as a rolling pin. You only need it about a 1mm or so thick, overall the buildings aren't to heavy a thin layer of clay makes the Das go a long way. Keep rolling it out over the surface and trim of the excess at the edges. Then cut out the clay where it's gone over the window and door openings. As it dries you can use a dentist type pick to scribe in details like brick or stone work. keep reworking and refining your scribing as the clay dries. Pay attention to the corners so stone courses look right. Fill in the corrugations whey the show in window openings with clay or filler.

You can use a scrunched up ball of metal kitchen foil rolled over the surface to give a stone texture if you want some surface variation. My 'rolling pin' has dried clay caked onto it so I use that to add surface detail. Once all rock hard you can use white superfine Milliput to refine and tweak the details and add more detail if you wish.

Doors and window shutters are plastic card.

Hafen von Schlockenberg01 Feb 2016 5:39 p.m. PST

Thanks Timmo. Can you post some pics?
I may stick with spackle for my buildings, but it sounds like your technique might be just the thing for enclosure walls, especially the rounded top sort.

You should do a tutorial(easy for me to say).

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