| D6 Junkie | 21 Dec 2015 9:45 a.m. PST |
Got a bunch of 40K Orks that keep
tipping over. They are mounted on GW
hollow 25mm round bases.
What can I use to give them a bit of weight? |
| Moonbeast | 21 Dec 2015 9:51 a.m. PST |
Washers glued to the bottom. |
| David Manley | 21 Dec 2015 10:40 a.m. PST |
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dampfpanzerwagon  | 21 Dec 2015 10:48 a.m. PST |
Car Repair Resin with bits of old lead figures. Tony |
Raynman  | 21 Dec 2015 11:15 a.m. PST |
I use metal washers like Moonbeast. |
| nvdoyle | 21 Dec 2015 11:31 a.m. PST |
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| Thomas O | 21 Dec 2015 11:38 a.m. PST |
Metal washers glues to the bottom. This also makes for a good storage solution if you line the bottom of the container with magnetic sheet. |
| Garand | 21 Dec 2015 2:59 p.m. PST |
Also another for metal washers. I have Pink Horrors myself, and the standard bearer/musician keep tipping over. A couple washers glued to the bottom did the trick… Damon. |
 Yellow Admiral | 21 Dec 2015 5:26 p.m. PST |
What glues is everybody using to adhere these metal objects to the plastic? I'm still looking for the best metal-to-plastic adhesive. CA ain't it. - Ix |
| Chris Wimbrow | 21 Dec 2015 8:18 p.m. PST |
I've been uneasy about shotgun refill pellets being oily as lead is increasingly restricted. For my slotta bases I cut pennies into three pieces as cutting in half still doesn't fit. I don't know where I'll use the sliver from the middle. No slot of course means the whole penny goes in. CA glue works fine to hold them in place while I use plumbing putty to fill in the gaps and seal the coins. A thin layer of plastic model filler, and I've got an easily sandable surface to make the bottom flat. (Each step should be allowed time to dry/cure.) If it's for a board game, I'll add a layer of felt with the sticky backing to protect the board. It should come as no surprise that I haven't completed very many bases, but the results are quite satisfying. |
| CeruLucifus | 23 Dec 2015 9:47 a.m. PST |
I can't find a source locally for shotgun pellets so I get lead split shot fishing weights. I crush them with pliers and/or continue the split to cut them in half. Whatever fits inside the base I glue in with epoxy. The remainder of the void I either fill with more epoxy or a filler (wall filler or acrylic sculpting gel). Note if you already seal off the bottom of the base (I use magnetic sheet), you can use a hot glue gun to inject molten plastic inside the base. This is usually enough weight for top heavy plastic figures and sometimes metal. Anyway if I've filled the base and the figure is still top-heavy, I crunch up some more split shot fishing weights to look like scale rocks and pile them up on the base around the figure's feet as part of the base flocking. I have read that tungsten filler powder works really well for this. It is sold for weighting the heads of golf clubs. I haven't found any locally though. |
| ordinarybass | 24 Dec 2015 9:20 a.m. PST |
pennies. For metal figures that are particularly heavy I'll glue some lead fishing weights to the bottom. Pretty much the way CeruLucifus describes above though I use superglue. |
| Ghecko | 26 Dec 2015 8:22 p.m. PST |
I have use a thin clear plastic disc of slightly larger diameter with the existing base glued to it. |
