"Very thin glue/fixer needed" Topic
9 Posts
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Last Hussar | 13 Nov 2015 5:59 p.m. PST |
I usually spray figures, as this has the added advantage of fixing the flock. However my can of sealant is playing silly s – I rescued 18 28mm men from a cloudy finish mostly because the archers are in mostly white livery, and the men at arms was an easy repaint (metal, metal, metal…) Just had to go over the bows and arrows, The other thing with spray is you can't do it indoors. So I'm probably going to buy some brush on matte as a trial. However I don't want to waste this on fixing the grass. Cheap pound shop superglue is good but the local one has stopped doing the nozzle kind – they only do the metal 'toothpaste' tube stuff, and spreading it on would be difficult anyway. Now the flock and static grass is thirsty stuff, which is good, because it soaks the glue through like a tissue by capillary action. Can anyone suggest something thin that will soak up, dry clear and is cheap and easy to apply? |
John Armatys | 13 Nov 2015 6:13 p.m. PST |
I use diluted wood glue for flock, applied with an old brush. I then brush on Ronseal matt polyurethane wood varnish. I wouldn't use it on static grass (it flattens it). |
Tgerritsen | 13 Nov 2015 7:26 p.m. PST |
I just use white pvc glue diluted with water. It really seems to do the trick. |
CeruLucifus | 13 Nov 2015 10:18 p.m. PST |
Same here, white household PVA glue thinned with water. I have used yellow carpenter's PVA glue, which is probably stronger, and you can't see the slight yellow tint against the ground color under the grass, but it seems wrong. |
Last Hussar | 14 Nov 2015 4:47 a.m. PST |
I use thinned PVA – I am talking about something on top to bind it – I find that some of the scatter falls off, even when the pva is dry. |
Durban Gamer | 14 Nov 2015 4:56 a.m. PST |
On top of flock last few months I've been using white wood glue considerably thinned by about 6o% very hot water and a drop of dish washing liquid to break surface tension. Seems to be working fine. This is flock that already had that same mix under it (painted on bare stand) when it was sprinkled down on stand the day before. |
Timmo uk | 15 Nov 2015 7:22 a.m. PST |
Woodland Scenics – their Scenic Cement will do the job. It's like watered down PVA but is somehow much better. I've recently started using a card glue by these folks (link below). It is utterly brilliant. They do a glue for fixing model railway ballast so I expect that might work for grass. Their products aren't cheap but I'm very impressed with the quality. deluxematerials.co.uk/en |
jwebster | 15 Nov 2015 11:43 a.m. PST |
pva + water for me. Drop of dish washing liguid (or probably better detergent for a dishwasher which should foam less although I haven't tried it yet) is a good thing Scenic cement is water + matt medium which I think works slightly better. If you buy a huge bottle of matt medium (with coupon) at the art store it is not that expensive The thing I am experimenting with is the optimum method to get the glue mix over the base without it getting all over figures as well. Cheap syringe was a failure – next up is a kitchen syringe for marinading meats when I next get to target to buy something like that John |
CeruLucifus | 16 Nov 2015 12:06 p.m. PST |
I don't worry about a base fixative unless the glue clearly failed and the flock, texture, or grass is not attached at all. For the failed glue scenario I have been using a dropper bottle to re-apply thinned white glue. It is hard to control and often will make any static grass lie down flat. However if the original glue is doing its job, I leave it alone. I do overspray all models with a couple coats gloss varnish then when dry a coat of matte lacquer, and then touchup with brush gloss varnish anything that has gone too matte (metal, mouths, eyes, glass, gems, etc). This probably has some fixative effect. |
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