Extra Crispy | 27 Oct 2015 9:29 p.m. PST |
That is the question… I bought a pack each of BMPs and T-72s which I have just finished painting (well the main bits anyway). I like the colors I've got. Base coat Coat d'Arms Army Green, heavy dry brush of Vallejo Gunship Green, very light dry brush of Vallejo Medium Olive. The olive adds a touch of yellow to the vehicles that reads "green" while the back green base colors still read "dark." But frankly the prospect of banging out hordes of plain green tanks does not really thrill me now that I look at what all I would need to paint. So, stick with counters? Go all-in? Or switch out counters for miniatures over time as the feeling takes me? What to do, what to do…. |
saltflats1929 | 27 Oct 2015 9:46 p.m. PST |
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Chuckaroobob | 27 Oct 2015 10:09 p.m. PST |
I paint all mine camo. Even if its not historically correct. I think they look better, and I'm the only person I'm trying to make happy. They are also easier to identify when borrowed. |
Extra Crispy | 27 Oct 2015 10:41 p.m. PST |
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Martin Rapier | 28 Oct 2015 12:08 a.m. PST |
Plain green tanks is what most of the allies had in WW2, as well as much of NATO. Maybe the scale is the problem? Go bigger? Personally I'm quite happy with hordes of green vehicles, but tastes vary. |
Flashman14 | 28 Oct 2015 5:39 a.m. PST |
I'd love a big project that is mostly drybtushing. Go all in. |
dagc54 | 28 Oct 2015 6:14 a.m. PST |
Go for it, you won't be sorry you did. |
GarrisonMiniatures | 28 Oct 2015 6:42 a.m. PST |
Do you base them? That could give you the variety. |
79thPA | 28 Oct 2015 6:47 a.m. PST |
A can of spray paint is all you need. |
Weasel | 28 Oct 2015 7:13 a.m. PST |
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Extra Crispy | 28 Oct 2015 7:28 a.m. PST |
I think I'll pick up a copy of Team Yankee and see how that goes over. I like the FoW engine and scale. But I've always resisted moderns as I know little about them and the learning curve always seemed very steep…. All my gaming is restricted to either 15 or 6mm and this is definitely a project on the B-List so cost is a factor. I can get 5 tanks for $12 USD in micro-armor, versus 3/4 of a tank in 15mm. |
Just Jack | 28 Oct 2015 8:53 a.m. PST |
Mark, I'm with 79thPA: I've done hordes of micro armor with spray painting and washing. I also paint tracks a rust color, but, to be honest, it's not really noticeable on the table. V/R, Jack |
Martin Rapier | 28 Oct 2015 8:59 a.m. PST |
Yes, spray (or paint on with a big brush), wash, drybrush. Job done. I have piles of green Churchills, Shermans, Cromwells, T26s, BT7s, T28s, KVs, T34s, ISIIs, as well as heaps of BMPs, BTRs, T55/62/64/72, Leos, M48s, M113s, Luchs, Marders and goodness knows what else. A spot of mud around the running gear works wonders, as does a very light overall 'dust' drybrush. Desert stuff is much worse, it is literally all the same colour once it is weathered, at least the various countries green tanks are different shades of green… As noted above, decent bases can make a big difference. |
skippy0001 | 28 Oct 2015 9:37 a.m. PST |
Do a ImagiNation campaign and paint them like Frederick or Napoleonic style uniform colors. That'll freak out the Grognards here!! |
79thPA | 28 Oct 2015 10:25 a.m. PST |
But then he'll get into the whole "what color is cornflower blue" debate, and no one's got time for that. |
farnox | 28 Oct 2015 10:54 a.m. PST |
Mark, I would suggest going with a mix of camo armor and solid green. The camo breaks up the monotony of all green and helps to keep the units straight. Plus camo units look cool! I've always wanted to do a Soviet winter unit with white and blue. Certainly unique. |
John Leahy | 28 Oct 2015 11:55 a.m. PST |
Check out the Board game World at War Blood and Bridges. Great series of games on hypothetical WWIII. The rules can also be used for miniatures and have by many folks. I am using them for my 3mm armies. I created a file for the stats. Thanks, John |
paulgenna | 28 Oct 2015 2:34 p.m. PST |
Remember the Russians have different schemes for the different regions. Do some in the yellow with green swatches. When you add in the tracks and mud to the road wheels it will help. I'm finishing up a division of American and German, with the majority now having the three tone NATO so I'm looking forward to my Russian pile. I want to hear more about Team Yankee and how it plays for larger battles. We commonly have brigade level engagements so I want to see how the mechanics play anywhere near that level. |
Mako11 | 29 Oct 2015 6:48 p.m. PST |
I say go with the 6mm minis. They look superb, and if, as mentioned above, you use a spray can, you can bang out whole battalions in short order. Just choose a base color that will work, as is, so you don't have to do so much layering. In this scale, I doubt most people will appreciate it anyway, unless you're creating a diorama to be viewed close up. A dark gray, or black wash. Some metallic paint, and/or a bit of mud or dust for the treads over that (I'd avoid rust, since I rarely see any rusted treads, excepting for on burned out hulks). Finish with a dry brush of a sand, or light tan color to bring out the highlights, and call it good. If you want to go with the camo'd effect, just add the second color as time permits, or you have interest in it. That seemed to become common for the Russians around the mid-1980s, apparently, just about the time NATO was changing their camo. too. Also, check out the CinC/PFC. armor. They're very nice, crisp castings too, and a bit less expensive than the GHQ minis. A lot of my Soviet/WP armor is from CinC. |
Lion in the Stars | 30 Oct 2015 8:01 p.m. PST |
Go for it. Some plain green tanks, some green w camo, some tan w green. Mud the hell out of the tracks. Maybe add some foliage camo, too. |
paulgenna | 01 Nov 2015 3:47 p.m. PST |
I second Mako11's recommendation on CinC minis. They have some really good figs and a large portion of my Russian's are theirs. Also, the M1A2 for CinC gives you the option of figs sticking out of the turrets. You have a couple of options so company can have a mix of looks. Most of me M1A2's are theirs. Nothing compares to the options on looks. |
freecloud | 02 Nov 2015 5:51 a.m. PST |
If you go 6mm micro-armour, go with the late 70's on, that's when all the sexy camo starts to happen. Also the art can be in the basing, some people really make it great. Then there is 6mm terrain, relatively low cost for some quite pretty buildings etc. Check around the web for ideas I agree with Mako's idea of banging them out in Olive drab (spray, wash, drybrush n' go) and then going back later and adding the other colors (it's what I did) And you can always have your own Imagi-Nation….roll forward the tanks of New Byzantium :) link |