"Best Glue for Paper Terrain buildings" Topic

After a year, my Paper Terrain buildings are separating where the glued seams are located. I used acid free Rubber Cement. Comes in the dark bottle with a brush attached to the cap. Apparently this ain't the stuff I should have used. Lots of buildings are coming apart, chimneys failing. It's a mess. Ideas? What the best glue for Paper Terrain buildings.

Aleene's Turbo Tacky Glue (US).

Not sure on logevity. Used for a year or two without problem.

Best I have used so far was a surprise as it was copydex and also tape in unseen areas where ever possible.
There seems to be uber ingredients in it that gives better lifespan.

I haven't used rubber cement for much of anything but a temporary glob since I was a schoolkid. Ironically, I've had success with using white school glue (Elmer's) for all sorts of paper projects. It can be spread very thin with an assortment of brushes and tools and any excess after squeezing together can be rubbed off with your fingers or a damp paper towel. After a few minutes, you can plan the next step while peeling glue off your fingers. Cleanup of everything is a cinch with warm soapy water.

I've switched to Scotch brand tacky glue. This stuff. (tried other brands and they didn't work)

link

Scott Washburn recommended the following when I asked (it works great too but the tip on the other glue makes it possible to apply the glue directly without a toothpick. (any 527 glue, exact brand is not important)

Any "tacky" type craft glue (like Scotch or Aleene's) will work well, and be permanent. Any ordinary white PVA glue will also work, but is somewhat less forgiving.

For a lengthy and detailed discussion of this subject, see the forums at papermodelers.com:

link

(Should probably have been cross-posted to the Paper Modeling Board for best response)

Remember to apply adhesive to both surfaces – as a general rule. 😉 I like pva, although it has a moisture content which can effect surfaces and some people don't like.
Pressing down and eliminating air- maximising contact seems to be a mumbo-jumbo that some people adhere to…
Yodas in this field may be those scrap book sites, favoured by those who are attracted to the dark side.

I use Scotch Fast Drying Tacky Glue. A glue stick is good too if you are able to apply some pressure to the join.

For gluing paper I have found that "Craft Glue" available from the haberdashery section of Dunelm Mills is really good.

Rubber cement is a very good adhesive for paper but you must spread it on both sides, let it dry, then spread a thin layer on one side and stick them together. This will give you a permanent bond, putting it on just one is sort of making it removable. This Glue leaves the material flexible.

I have also used Elmers white glue and Aileens tacky glue, spread thin with a toothpick after application. This leaves the material a little more rigid.

For sticking together things that don't want to stick, contact cement is the best adhesive. You put a thin layer on both sides what it dry for 10 minutes, stick it together and I will come apart. This is better for model building, then for paper construction.

The trick with gluing paper (to itself or to other materials) is to use a glue with a low water content.

I apply ordinary white glue with a brush. the key is to make the application very very thin: then it will bond immediately and not inflitrate moisture into the paper. I thin the glue with a little water, just enough to make it brush thin, not enough to make it really wet.

"The trick with gluing paper (to itself or to other materials) is to use a glue with a low water content."

Or no water content at. In our hobby, the warping factor of water-based glues is something to be mindful of – often the thinner the parts [like paper products] the higher the potential for "pucker" and distortion.

Best glue I've found for a whole host of hobby crafting projects – Goo, by Walthers, out of Milwaukee, WI:

link