"How to Paint Shapeways Models" Topic

Shapeways has published a useful article on how to paint their products: link

Looks like a lot of work.

I bought a Trojan Bunny. Spray prime, paint. Did I do it wrong?

I'm with EC on this one. That reminds me…got some 3mm goodies from the National Cheese Emporium coming soon!

Aren't these the standard steps for painting that people who use plastic figures generally will be familiar with? Apart from the acetone bit which appears to be optional.

I'm painting a WW I Russian Ilya Muromets Heavy Bomber, made with the white, strong plastic. All I did was to wash it with dish soap (no soaking for 30 minutes…), then paint it with craft paints. The base colors are on, and they have been on, for a couple of years, without issue. I need to finish it, but I did nothing special, and it is holding up to handling, without a clear-coat, or any sealant, just fine. Cheers!

The piece that's missing from the article is that they're talking about FUD – Frosted Ultra Detail, which needs to be degreased (and is an absolutely annoying process – I've had it go right, I've also had it go wrong, leaving behind a striated texture).

WSF – White Strong Flexible (the one with a coarser surface) just needs a rinse and a rub with a toothbrush).

No mention of Bestine. Do they not know about it?

- Ix

All I do is prime and paint.

From what I've read, it's important to "degrease" at least some of their materials, in order to get the paint to adhere properly.

In some cases, liberally using primer may help fill in the graininess a bit, though it has the potential to cover up fine detailing too.

I soaked in soap and water. Hand primed with gesso, and let sit overnight before I started painting. The miniatures were 1/144th scale air racers, rather small made from the rough bumpy resin, so a little something to get used to, but they painted up fine.

There is no mold release. Why is it necessary to degrease?

My guess is that certain materials need to be lubricated to get through the printer. I'd have to do a little research to be sure.

Really the techniques are very different depending on the material. The WSF (sintered nylon) is rather rough, but takes paint well – it doesn't need washing etc. I find it's best blasted with a spray primer (since it's incredibly porous until sealed) and then it's a case of how much you want to smooth it / how much fine detail you're worried about losing.

I normally spray prime, then hit it with a spray of "filler primer" (a yellow undercoat from Halfords which is designed to even out scratches etc.) and then a spray of gloss lacquer. That gives a *reasonably* smooth finish without obscene amounts of effort….

For the "detail" materials (which are resins, I think), the Shapeways guide is a good starting point (if possibly overkill), but the main thing is simply that yes, the detail types do need a good wash – sometimes you'll find they're fine to paint straight off, but they can be very prone to flaking paint etc.

I knew something was up with my first airplanes in the FUD material when I left them to drive after just washing in water and soap, and came back to find grease stains on the paper they were drying on.

I do give the Shapeways stuff a good soapy wash, rinse, and air dry. Some of their models can have some oils on them. After that, I primed normally and painted with very tiny brushes.

Very glad I found this thread.

Personal Opinion here..
this tells "Me" to avoid the (FUD) Frosted Ultra Detail materal, sounds like (even when they turn out well) this is more work than I really want to deal with.

I have also been wondering just how "flexible" is the (WSF) White Soft Flexible material they use?
*Sgt Slag,
Is WSF the actual material you refer to when you mentioned you Russian Bomber made of "white strong, plastic"?

I really don't remember. They offer it in multiple materials. I went with a cheaper material, but I ordered it, and another airplane figure, more than five years ago. I guess I would suggest ordering some "samples", if you can afford them, or make a best guess, and forge ahead. Otherwise, do an Internet search on the different materials, for reviews outside of TMP, and make an educated decision -- then order some "samples".

In the end, you won't know until you take the plunge, and you try painting whatever material you order. Sorry I can't be of more help, but my WW-I airplanes are about as low on my list of things-to-paint, as they can be due to the fact that I haven't played that game in numerous years. Best of luck! Cheers!

PS: I would also recommend using artist's Gesso as a primer: an acrylic, so water based, easy to clean up; it goes on thick, but it shrinks to a thin skin, with occasional pin-holes, which do not need to be touched up. Gesso takes acrylic paints very well, and I've used it as a "primer" on: metal, resin, hard, and soft plastic figures. As long as you seal the finished paintwork, with either urethane, or Pledge Floor Polish (basically a clear acrylic, designed for covering floors -- to be walked upon, with rubber-soled shoes…), the paint will be safe. A matte, clear coat is recommended as a last step, of course. Cheers!