"Basing slotta base miniatures on non slotta bases?" Topic

So do you ever mount slotta base miniatures on bases without the slot? If so how are you attaching them?

I snip the slot tab off, file the feet flat, and superglue them to the new base.

I carefully cut off the metal slot, then use extra strength Loctite gel. Keep the bottom of their feet slightly rough using low grit sandpaper, and if using metal bases, prime the bases first (I use this step to prevent "lead rot" just in case). I have never had a problem with miniatures coming off or with lead rot. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Hitman

Once, base broke off. Used a mound of green stuff under each foot, pressed the mini in, smoothed the edges. Didn't look awesome but got the job done.

Thanks guys

After cutting the tab off and filing the fit i use a pin vise to drill a hole in one foot and the one hole in the base. Then I glue a small piece of wire in the hole and the. pin and glue it to the base.

Cut most of the tab off.
Leave a bit to use as a pin.
Drill a hole in the new base to sink the pin into.

Snip off the tab apart from the bit under each foot then base as required using 2part epoxy glue.

On large mdf bases for Impetus l have also used the router bit on a dremel to carve a rough gouge into the mdf base to accomodate the tab and fix it with thick woodglue.

I do as miniMo. Cut the tab to form a pin.

If that doesnt work because the tab is in bad shape, I will pin it.

If I am using a plastic base, I drill a pin hole into the foot and using a flat headed tack as the pin to add more stability.

I do as Hitman does, but I use epoxy. I base on metal fender washers. CP Miniatures also has an article on their website for basing their slota figures on solid bases.

BTW Hitman, no one has made lead miniatures for decades now so there should be no worry about lead anymore. Anecdotally, practically all my early 1980-ish Citadel and Grenadier figures succumbed to lead rot by the 1990s when I pulled them out of storage. They were all unpainted. It was painful throwing away an entire collection of figures that I loved! :-(

I use the "pegging" precess noted above to attach them to scenic resin bases.

If I don't mind the mini having a bit of height (or it I actually want it), I file down the bottom of the tab a bit, and mount the mini on one of the "slotted cast-on bases" Citadel used to sell early on when it went to all slotta-bases. I have hoarded quite a few, but occasionally make my own, pounding pieces of scrap minis into small, low mounds, and cutting slots in them with a grinder. It's quicker than it sounds.

Anyway, then I glue the whoile ting to a Litko plywood base.

I mount them on fender washers, too. I snip the tab as thin as I can on the sides and leave it thicker where it will go in the hole in the washer. File the snipped edges flat, then super glue to the washer. When that is dry, build the base up to the level of their feet. Green stuff works well for this.

Grelber

As above. I usually use hollow plastic bases compatible with slot bases, or wood of similar thickness, so I clip the slot into a peg under one foot, trim everywhere else, drill a hole, put in enough epoxy to fill the hole plus a blob under the other foot, place and let set.

I do have some I glued from flat feet onto a flat base, before I knew about the peg trick. And also plastic figures glued with plastic cement. And these sometimes pop loose. When this happens I drill through the top of one foot into the base and pin and re-glue with epoxy.

For something really hard like a fender washer, I'd forego the peg. I'd clip the slot off entirely then set the figure's feet in two blobs of epoxy. If it wouldn't stand up, I'd mix some epoxy putty blobs, stick them onto the feet, shape into something that will stand, let harden, epoxy glue the figure plus putty blobs onto the base, let harden, pop the figure loose, then glue black in with epoxy.

Slotta based figures are the Devil's jockstrap.