Help support TMP


"Wargames Factory Skeleton Warriors" Topic


22 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please remember that some of our members are children, and act appropriately.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Fantasy Gallery Message Board


Areas of Interest

Fantasy

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Top-Rated Ruleset

Savage Worlds: Showdown


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Showcase Article

15mm Volcano Dwarf Axemen

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian reveals axemen for his Volcano Dwarf army.


2,817 hits since 24 Jun 2015
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

blooddave24 Jun 2015 10:20 a.m. PST

picture

picture

picture

I got a box of Wargames Factory Skeleton Warriors on Saturday. Saturday night I started on them. I had Monday off work, and after some final touches last night (Tuesday), they are done.

I did a super fast job on these guys. No frills.

The box of minis was $22. USD Assembly was time consuming – the parts for each model:

* head
* body
* 2 separate arms
* legs
* feet
* weapon(s) / shield

That's 7 or 8 separate parts per model. Assembly took longer than painting. Once I got in the groove, it went faster.

I primed them white with The Army Painter white. Then I painted the weapons and shields. Then I used The Army Painter Quickshade dip. Then a matte spray, and some minimal basing.

I've never used "the dip" before. I usually use ink washes. I did not dip, I brushed it on. Well, I dipped one, and decided brushing on was easier. Thoughts on dip:

* The dip needs mineral spirits to clean up.
* When using ink wash, what it looks like dry is different than what it looks like wet. You have to kind of "over do it" with ink wash so that when it dries, it's present enough. Not so with dip. It dries exactly like it looks when wet.
* It smells.
* It dries shiny.

About Army Painter White primer: It should only be used in cases like this. It's so "slippery" that paint doesn't stick to it very well. I would not recommend it as a general purpose white primer. I use Army Painter color primers all the time, and none of them have this "slippery" issue like the white does.

On assembly:

* Model cement (aka plastic cement) is essential for these models.

picture

When attaching the feet:

* Leave the bar attaching the 2 feet intact.
* Make sure they are right side up
* Different feet are pre-spaced by the connecting bar to specific legs
* Make sure you have the pelvis facing the right way
* AFTER the glue is totally dry, then snip the connecting bar off.

I have a lot of left over bits. Each sprue makes 6 skeletons, but has 10 heads, so I have plenty of skulls left over for base bits. Lots of left over weapons and shields, as well.

Personal logo Flashman14 Supporting Member of TMP24 Jun 2015 11:14 a.m. PST

That's a good review – thank you!

Muncehead24 Jun 2015 11:18 a.m. PST

Good timing, I was thinking of buying a pack or two for Frostgrave.

XRaysVision24 Jun 2015 11:26 a.m. PST

Thanks for this post. I bought a bunch of these to make a Dragon's Teeth HotT army to oppose the Greek Argonauts.

Night Owl III24 Jun 2015 11:34 a.m. PST

Best skeli's on the market in my opinion. You just need to have some patience with them.

You've done well by them – great job!

79thPA Supporting Member of TMP24 Jun 2015 12:32 p.m. PST

Nice job, and a great tip about the legs.

Mako1124 Jun 2015 12:35 p.m. PST

Those do look good.

Thanks for sharing.

Intrepide24 Jun 2015 12:51 p.m. PST

Great report on some useful products. Odd bits for basing debris and conversions is always nice too. So six models to a sprue, how many sprues to the box? Or is it the thirty you have there for a full box content?

Timmo uk24 Jun 2015 1:08 p.m. PST

They give me the creeps – great job – I think you've done these really well.

Personal logo Herkybird Supporting Member of TMP24 Jun 2015 1:22 p.m. PST

Taking wargaming back to the bare bones! – Excellent!

blooddave24 Jun 2015 2:51 p.m. PST

Thanks everyone.

5 sprues in the box – 30 skeletons total. 6 skeletons per sprue, 6 spears, 6 swords (3 of each kind), 6 shields (3 of each kind), 3 bows and 3 quivers. I didn't make any bowmen. 10 heads, 6 bodies, 6 sets of legs (2 legs and the pelvis all as one piece) 6 sets of feet. A bunch of arms, more than you needs, so there's flexibility there.

JimDuncanUK24 Jun 2015 3:03 p.m. PST

Very Harryhausen

JimDuncanUK24 Jun 2015 3:07 p.m. PST

@blooddave

Did you wash the sprues in warm soapy water before priming them? I would have.

Try using the Army Painter Acrylic Washes, they are far superior (IMO) to their 'smelly' dips and are water soluble.

blooddave24 Jun 2015 3:34 p.m. PST

JimDuncanUK: I scrubbed each assembled mini with soapy water and a toothbrush. When I say "slippery" I mean the primer itself. The primer stuck to the plastic models just fine. It's the paint sticking to the primer that was more hit and miss.

I've had people tell me Army Painter primer was slippery before, but I've not encountered it myself until I used the white.

As far as wash, I do usually use Army Painter Ink washes. I've had this can of dip sitting around for a while and decided to give it a try.

I think the dip has it's advantages and disadvantages. I'll probably stick mostly to the ink washes.

JimDuncanUK24 Jun 2015 4:04 p.m. PST

@blooddave

I've never used Army Painter primers but I imagine it will be prone to typical spray paint problems. One of them might be that the spray can was not sufficiently shaken before use. It might be that the white pigment is a different consistency to the coloured pigments and needs extra agitation.

Or maybe the humidity was too high.

Maybe some others could comment on their experiences.

Xintao24 Jun 2015 8:14 p.m. PST

I picked up a box recently. I got through one skellie before I gave up. Handed them off to a friend, he got through 6 or so and he gave up. The rest will be bits for dungeon scenery. To fidgety to deal with.

Xin

blooddave24 Jun 2015 8:16 p.m. PST

Xintao: I totally understand. I found it best to have a few drinks first. :)

Intrepide24 Jun 2015 8:24 p.m. PST

Thanks for the numbers! I can see many uses for these.

Brother Jim26 Jun 2015 10:26 a.m. PST

Those look nice!!

What's the diameter of the big round shields??
How long are the spears??

I ask as I want to do some conversions on my Bones Bugbears and they are really burly compared to humans so the shields need to be pretty large.

Thanks!

Brother Jim05 Jul 2015 2:49 p.m. PST

Does anyone else have these models that can answer my questions?

Thanks.

blooddave05 Jul 2015 5:22 p.m. PST

Sorry, I didn't see your Qs.

picture

Brother Jim06 Jul 2015 8:36 a.m. PST

Thank You!!11!!
The shields would be a little smaller than I'd like, but better than nothing.
Both spears would be perfect.
And I could probably convert a few to be archers too.

Thanks Again !!

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.