SurfingMoose | 24 Jun 2015 6:56 a.m. PST |
What Am I Doing Wrong? Whenever I watch a video of someone doing a pinwash with enamels, I see the capillary effect. When I do it, it rarely happens. I've used Vallejo and Testors gloss and satin coats as the base to do the pinwash on. Have tried different methods: can spray, airbrush, and brush, but can't seem to get the capillary effect happening most of the time. Cleaning up the overflow is a bitch. What the hell am I doing wrong? Anyone have tricks or methods that make doing pinwashes and cleaning them up work like a charm? |
Fizzypickles | 24 Jun 2015 7:27 a.m. PST |
What paint and thinner are you using and in what ratio? |
SurfingMoose | 24 Jun 2015 7:41 a.m. PST |
I am using AMMO by Mig enamel washes out of the bottle. I have a few friends who are having this same issue with various products, water and enamel based, to DIY oil based. |
ColCampbell | 24 Jun 2015 8:44 a.m. PST |
Part of your problem may be that the "tooth" of the paint on your figure may not be smooth enough for the wash to flow properly. Many acrylic paints, especially the craft ones, are too rough (microscopically) to get a good smooth surface. I have brushed on Future before I do a wash and have had much better results as it seems to smooth out the surface. Jim |
RavenscraftCybernetics | 24 Jun 2015 9:24 a.m. PST |
FWIW, I gave up on enamels and switched to acrylics because I couldnt get the enamels to wash. ymmv, RC |
JezEger | 24 Jun 2015 9:53 a.m. PST |
Try using oil paint thinned with turps. The turps gives it very fast drying time, plus it washes nicely. I use oil washes on horses all the time. Most modellers use the future method mentioned above before applying washes, for say, panel lines on aircraft. It makes the wash flow better. |
idontbelieveit | 24 Jun 2015 10:02 a.m. PST |
I use enamels for glazes but I use oils (thinned with mineral spirit) for pinwashes. I always am back to flat when I get to the pinwashes – I'm skeptical about whether you are working on a flat or glossy surface. |
Ambush Alley Games | 24 Jun 2015 11:25 a.m. PST |
I spray with models with Future before pin washing (as ColCampbell suggests) and use artist's oils thinned with mineral spirits for the was itself (as JezEger and idontbelieveit suggest). I find that helps avoid problems with toothiness in any of my paints. Shawn. |
SurfingMoose | 24 Jun 2015 11:30 a.m. PST |
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Will give Future a try. |
BigDan | 25 Jun 2015 7:26 p.m. PST |
Moose, you dont have to use future any gloss coating will do. You just need to make sure you dont have a matte or dull coat of paint that you are trying the wash on. As the good Colonel mentioned the matte coatings have a "tooth" that your wash will stick to instead of flowing like you want it to. Also, whether sculpting, trying a new painting technique, really just about anything, dont be discouraged if it doesnt come out right at first. You might want to have a few dummy figures to use for trying out a new technique. One of the reasons you see great results from the painters or sculptors that use a technique is that they have played around with the technique enough that they become familiar with the properties of the paint, wash, putty etc…Practice makes perfect! Good luck :) Dan |
SurfingMoose | 26 Jun 2015 9:58 a.m. PST |
BigDan, Not my first time doing a pinwash. It's frustrating to watch a video and see an effect that you can't duplicate. Also am using gloss or satin varnish. Will test Future tonight. Have coated the models with it but work and all… |