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"What to do for weak bayonets?" Topic


20 Posts

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966 hits since 22 Jun 2015
©1994-2017 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Doc Ord Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 8:00 a.m. PST

My new Iron Duke Mutiny figures are beautiful but the bayonets are true to scale and very weak. I lost 2 in transit. Would a thin coat of epoxy do any good? There is the danger of ending up with a blob of glue on the weapon.I wish someone would sculpt replacement bayonets with an open socket that could be fitted on the gun barrel.

Martin Rapier22 Jun 2015 8:28 a.m. PST

I often stiffen up spears, bayonets etc with a coat of undiluted PVA. Epoxy would probably do the trick too but PVA is easier to work with. I'm not familiar with this range of figures, but why not try it on a couple as a test.

Sloppypainter Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 8:35 a.m. PST

I have used a thin coat of tacky glue (it's PVA with less water in it)on 28s and a thin smear of gel super glue on 15s. Seemed to help.

Doc Ord Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 8:39 a.m. PST

I will try the PVA--thanks.

MajorB22 Jun 2015 8:41 a.m. PST

I often remove the bayonets. They were used a lot less often than we imagine.

Personal logo The Beast Rampant Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 9:06 a.m. PST

I stiffen them with Zap-a-Gap. if that doesn't work, or they've already snapped off, I just do without. A few odd men out adds variety.

One reason I don't like true-scale.

JimDuncanUK22 Jun 2015 9:20 a.m. PST

I use a couple of coats of brushed on liquid superglue a day or two before painting.

Doc Ord Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 10:01 a.m. PST

I had also thought about super glue and as pointed out a few men without bayonets are good for variety.

Derek Cooper Inactive Member22 Jun 2015 11:44 a.m. PST

Get a cheapo soldering iron at WM, then make new bayonets with solder. Use the solid core solder, no flux needed.

I do this to almost all figs in my collection. In fact with some castings, like the old Custom Cast Confederals, I just go ahead and break off the bayonet AND rifle, all the way back to the hand. Then remake it with solder. It's quicker and easier than it sounds. Just takes a little practice.

duncanh Inactive Member22 Jun 2015 12:01 p.m. PST

What scale/usual banter about scale and figure size?

If 54mm, then use solder. If 2mm, then use your sense.

If 1:1 then your bayonets are weak.

Doc Ord Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 12:02 p.m. PST

How do you get a rifle barrel and bayonet out of solder?

Derek Cooper Inactive Member22 Jun 2015 1:32 p.m. PST

Doc, it's easier to do it, than it is to explain it. But, I will try.
Get the $9.98 USD soldering iron in the electronics section at WM. The coil of solder that comes with it won't work for this purpose, although I do use it for other things. Buy the solid core solder at Home Depot. With a strong pair of dikes, cut it up into 1/4" long pieces.

I use an old glass pot cover to work the solder puddle on, it won't stick to it. With the tip of the iron, get one of the 1/4" pieces melted. You will find that you can actually pick the blob of solder up with the iron, and it stays melted, hanging to the tip.
In your other hand, you are holding the casting that needs fixing. I use an alligator clip (clothespin, etc.,.) to hold the figure, because the casting itself will get too hot to hold with your bare fingers.

Bring the blob of solder into contact with the casting at the point where you need to add the rifle or whatever. Watching the point of contact closely, after about 5-10 seconds you will observe that the blob of solder and the casting at the point of contact fuse, or begin to flow together. When you see this happen, start to slowly pull the solder tip away from the casting. the solder will "string out", or follow the tip, still attached to the figure. It will slowly solidify at the casting end as you pull, but still be molten at the iron tip end. Keep pulling it away until you think it's about the right length for the barrel of the gun. At this point, if I want a bayonet also, I will pull the tip away 90 degrees from the new barrel. Then quickly another 90, back parallel with the barrel. If you do this last step right, with practice you will be able to bring it to a sharp point, with no further work needed.

I suggest you use one of those fancy magnifying lamps to do this! I could not do this without one. If there is interest, I'll see if I can get some pics or a video up.
Derek

Doc Ord Supporting Member of TMP22 Jun 2015 1:45 p.m. PST

Some pics would be cool.

Derek Cooper Inactive Member22 Jun 2015 1:55 p.m. PST

I tried to copy and paste, no go. How do you post pics here?

Derek Cooper Inactive Member22 Jun 2015 2:06 p.m. PST

All the pics are in my Windows "Pictures" library, no URL to type in that I see.

Derek Cooper Inactive Member22 Jun 2015 2:24 p.m. PST

172.JPG

MajorB22 Jun 2015 2:40 p.m. PST

I tried to copy and paste, no go. How do you post pics here?

TMP link

Pictures have to be hosted somewhere on the Internet. That's how you get a URL. Many people use Flickr or Photobucket.

Derek Cooper Inactive Member23 Jun 2015 6:08 a.m. PST

Thanks major.

Personal logo Ditto Tango 2 3 Supporting Member of TMP23 Jun 2015 6:15 a.m. PST

DELETED

Derek Cooper Inactive Member23 Jun 2015 6:21 a.m. PST
Derek Cooper Inactive Member23 Jun 2015 6:28 a.m. PST

The barrel and bayonet were made in one smooth motion, starting with the fusion at the figures left hand.

I don't mount my castings on multiple figure stands, so I also use solder to enlarge the bases of the figures. This makes them more stable, and less top heavy.

As you can see, I also added a small strip of sprue with superglue as a sling. This strengthens the barrel.

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