War Panda | 09 Jun 2015 1:29 p.m. PST |
I've just acquired the C&C Napoleonics and have really enjoyed the rules. So much so that I'll be getting the Ancients addition. I was thinking about using 6mm minis and using some 3d hex terrain. Now the best I've seen (thanks to Martin) is the Hexon type by Kallistra. While this option is fantastic, the cost (particularly the P&P) isn't justifiable for me right now (I've spent a lot recently in other areas :( I have noticed there's someone local who's selling some Heroscape hex terrain and I'm wondering is anyone familiar with this type of terrain/game and whether it might be suitable for C&C. Or better still has anyone used this for C&C! Thanks in advance for any info John |
nevals | 09 Jun 2015 1:38 p.m. PST |
Some discussion here: link and here: link I don't own any C&C game, but that is my summer project,both Napoleonics and Ancients versions.I am thinking 1/72 minis, because I already have scores.For Ancients ,I would like to do Conan version also. Good luck and good fun. |
zippyfusenet | 09 Jun 2015 1:55 p.m. PST |
Oooh. Command and Colors Hyborian Age, with Heros and Sorcerers and Monsters. Please keep us posted on developments. |
normsmith | 09 Jun 2015 2:25 p.m. PST |
I think there will be plenty of people who will say Heroscape tiles are fine ….. but I have seen the terrain that you use for your Bolt Action game (beautiful) and I doubt that aesthetically you will like the heroscape as a board replacement – I feel the boardgame itself is a better option. From memory the Heroscape is 1" hex and so in 6mm, your troops will be just 1 base wide (at 20mm). The small tiles makes it difficult to hold both terrain and figures. It is possible to spend so much money on trying to get something that looks like Hexon, that in the end, getting the Hexon would have been the better bet (I know, I have been there). Hexon gives you a 4" tile, for your 9 x 13 grid, that takes up just a bit more space than a 4' wide table, but depth wise comes in at under 3'. Ready alternatives are; 1) mark out a cloth in hexes, 2) get MDF hexes from the likes of warbases etc and make your own hex field, indeed if you did that, with 6mm, you might even want to go slightly smaller than 4'. I think a few of the companies do 75mm hex shapes. 3) look at Magister Militum, they do a polystyrene hex from GHQ, though be prepared to put the work in to get them nice – remember this post at The Wargames Website (LINK link ) Potentially, you could end up doing a lot of gaming on the board that you ultimately go for and possibly painting several armies – getting the figure base size, terrain style and hex size right has to be decided upon at the outset, so that they all work together. Edited … predictive spell checker! Bah |
War Panda | 09 Jun 2015 3:03 p.m. PST |
@nevels Thank you for the links…I could well end up with the battle hexes that mentioned @normsmith Brilliant advice and lots to think over. Based on some of your info I redirecting my attentions to Hexon or making one of my own supplemented with something like battle hexes Thanks a lot guys. Exactly the kind of info I needed |
Moe Ronn | 09 Jun 2015 3:11 p.m. PST |
the Heroscape hexes are larger than an inch, closer to 40mm face-to-face. They have "teeth" along the edges to interlock and the top surface along the edges (3-5mm?) are a touch lower (and smoother) than the center is in order to define the hex. |
JimDuncanUK | 09 Jun 2015 3:16 p.m. PST |
Heroscape tiles are about 40mm flat side to flat side. I have an absolute ton of them, enough for a 6x4 several layers deep. You can see some here: link |
Martin Rapier | 09 Jun 2015 10:58 p.m. PST |
If the Hexon is too pricey, marking a game cloth can work fine. Offset squares are easy to do, produce the same effect as hexes and you only need mark the corners. The Heroscape tiles might be fine though, particularly with 6mm strips. You don't need to model all the CC blocks as a base though, one or two big bases works fine, just track hits instead. My Ancients are all just on standard DBA bases, I just use them as is. |
79thPA | 10 Jun 2015 7:11 a.m. PST |
I'm all for a Hyborean Age C@C. Jim, interesting set up. I've have been thinking about a minimalist type of WWII game. |
JimDuncanUK | 10 Jun 2015 9:22 a.m. PST |
@79thPA Have a look here then! link link And here in particular: link |
olicana | 11 Jun 2015 5:40 a.m. PST |
Or you could 'squex' a surface at very little cost
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alphus99 | 20 Jun 2015 5:40 a.m. PST |
I'm surprised more people don't use the squex approach, Olicana – all the benefits of hexes with 5% of the geometry! ;) |
dantheman | 30 Jun 2015 11:51 a.m. PST |
Okay, what is squex? A commercial product? If not, what are the proportional dimensions of the squares? |
dantheman | 01 Jul 2015 8:26 p.m. PST |
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Dexter Ward | 02 Jul 2015 2:21 a.m. PST |
A squex is just rows of offset squares, as it shows in the picture above. Not sure what you mean about proprtions; they are squares – all sides equal. They are much easier to draw than hexes, and play exactly the same. |
dantheman | 02 Jul 2015 12:58 p.m. PST |
Thanks Dexter. I was not sure they were true squares because a diagonal move is slightly farther than straight across for a square. To offset that one would make a rectangle of height less than width. The issue is trivial to me, but some made a point of it when I searched other posts. |