"15mm Sci fi paper models " Topic
19 Posts
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Gunner Dunbar | 05 Jun 2015 11:25 p.m. PST |
Hi guys Well, I haven't touched my 15mm Blood Angels for a long while, so I have been thinking about dreds and vehicles, and I had an epiphany, why not try paper models? I have never made a paper model, and I'm willing to give it a go. I will update this thread with all my 15mm Sci Fi paper model attempts so that others may get inspiration from my attempts. I searched for and found a few 40k paper models on the web, and will start with a dred, as this is the next thing I wanted to add to my force, I am starting with a Mk III, I printed the plans out at 50% size, but they looked a little small, so re printed at 60% Theres a few ways I can go about this, I am starting with no. 1 and if that doesn't work will try the other ideas. 1) glue the plans to cardboard, cut out and assembly, then detail the finished model before painting, I am afraid the model maybe very delicate, and I will need to think about the painting process, as my usual way using washes etc probably wont work with paper. 2) use the plans to make the parts out of plasticard and construct the parts like a model, this maybe very time consuming. 3) use the idea in no. 1, but once detailed, try and make a mould of the parts for casting in resin. 4) use the paper model as a template for sculpting the model out of putty. Anyway, I will keep you informed on how it goes.
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ROUWetPatchBehindTheSofa | 06 Jun 2015 1:49 a.m. PST |
From doing craft projects with my daughter PVA glue impregnated paper will take acrylics, but does still absorb some moisture and go a bit 'soggy' – higher quality papers and a more thorough PVA seal might help. I once played around with making card models and the worse thing is actually getting a bond which holds quickly – at least using plastic card a typical glue will give you bond pretty quickly. I'll be interested in this as I'm thinking about 'deads at the moment. Though I suspect I'll just end up buying a proxie model! |
Toaster | 06 Jun 2015 3:38 a.m. PST |
Use plastic but instead of making a hollow structure use the pattern to build up blocks of the right shape by laminating profiles and then filing the edges smooth. It's quicker and far less fiddly and will give a stronger model. Robert |
Zargon | 06 Jun 2015 8:18 a.m. PST |
Trick use superglue to build solid then paint whole structure with undiluted white/wood glue, base as usual, basecoat, paint/wash (whatever style you like I usually spray vanish a gloss coat at this stage the final paint/shades/highlights matt/satin vanish metal highlights, base painted and flocked, finished. The superglue gives a pretty strong structure to 80grm card, the fiddly bits from the paper model are added with balsa/bitsbox pieces. I also use superglue bonding powder for bottom of legs etc to make solid firm base to legs etc, do bit at a time though superglue is thermodynamic and too much generates a fairly hot heat :) Hope this helps, oh matches lots of matches for internal supports get rid of the tops though or you may end up burning the whole thing. Cheers |
Zargon | 06 Jun 2015 8:19 a.m. PST |
Trick use superglue to build solid then paint whole structure with undiluted white/wood glue, base as usual, basecoat, paint/wash (whatever style you like I usually spray vanish a gloss coat at this stage the final paint/shades/highlights matt/satin vanish metal highlights, base painted and flocked, finished. The superglue gives a pretty strong structure to 80grm card, the fiddly bits from the paper model are added with balsa/bitsbox pieces. I also use superglue bonding powder for bottom of legs etc to make solid firm base to legs etc, do bit at a time though superglue is thermodynamic and too much generates a fairly hot heat :) Hope this helps, oh and matches lots of matches for internal supports get rid of the tops though or you may end up burning the whole thing. Cheers |
Gunner Dunbar | 06 Jun 2015 4:45 p.m. PST |
Hi guys An update on my 15mm paper dred, firstly I decided to re print the model at 70% rather than 60%, only because my 15mm Blood Angels are very large so I wanted my dred to fit in, most people would be happy with 60% I believe, I decided to use superglue rather than white glue, it would have been to slow to dry, the superglue worked well, just be careful of your fingers with such a small model, the model is coming along nicely, but it is a rather slow process, this is about 3-4 hours work, do whilst watching TV, although it looks quite detailed, all the detail is in print and will be lost when painted, so I will have to 3D the detail with plasticard rod etc, I'm pretty happy with the results so far, it is a lot sturdier then I thought it would be, let me know what you think. More pics link
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The Ummer | 06 Jun 2015 8:02 p.m. PST |
A paper modeler once told me that combining a white pva (?) glue finish with acrylic spray varnish creates a hard shell like finish on paper models, almost like a plastic. Don't know if you're supposed to spray while the glue is wet or not. His paper models were all quite rugged. Anyone have any experience with this? |
Gunner Dunbar | 07 Jun 2015 1:55 a.m. PST |
Hi guys I have done a bit more work on this today, I chose dual chain guns, mostly because it meant I didn't have to make the fist, which looked a bit fiddly, I think he is coming along nicely, will let the putty dry that is holding the chain guns on, then I will start on detailing the exterior, a pic for scale with a normal size Chaos marine and a 15mm marine and Termie, all comments welcome. More pics link
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Mute Bystander | 07 Jun 2015 4:55 a.m. PST |
Not a GW/40Kplayer but doesn't this sound like IP violation/Cease and Desist material? Or is this so far removed from 'canon' looking material that is really is a different animal from their stuff? Edit: Wait, 15mm Blood Angels? Did GW ever produce anything in 15mm size? And does it make a difference for IP purposes? I honestly don't know. |
Gunner Dunbar | 07 Jun 2015 5:43 a.m. PST |
IP issue? Maybe, but to be honest, I have bought thousands of dollars worth of GW stuff over the years, so I don't really feel guilty about scratch building and converting a few models for my own personal use, obviously it would be different if I was selling these things, but I'm not, and not going to get sucked into a big debate about it, so this will be my only comment on the subject, and no GW does not make anything in 15mm. |
Gunner Dunbar | 15 Jun 2015 2:08 a.m. PST |
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Jimboba | 15 Jun 2015 3:21 a.m. PST |
You've outdone yourself. That's really impressive. Doubly impressive that's it's a paper model! Looking forward to seeing the finished article. You say 'no cost', but what about man-hours? That must be clocking in some serious time there. |
John Treadaway | 15 Jun 2015 3:58 a.m. PST |
That's a lot of work… John T |
Gunner Dunbar | 15 Jun 2015 5:15 a.m. PST |
Yeah, not the quickest of builds I will admit. |
Gunner Dunbar | 18 Jun 2015 9:21 p.m. PST |
Hi guys Done a little more work on this guy, he is coming along nicely, not sure if I should give him more emblems, needs more skulls comes to mind, what do you guys think? More pics link
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Jimboba | 19 Jun 2015 2:57 a.m. PST |
What do I think? Looks brilliant, so anything that follows is on that premise alone; - drilled holes or painted on barrel ends for the chain guns. - at the most I'd think about adding a few white bands to break up some of the large flat areas (but not the 'bib"). - love your weather/wear effects. If applied to the white banding would make it look more war-weary. Truly brilliant. It will be one of those – "what?! It's made of paper!? BS" - personal opinion – no skulls… |
ROUWetPatchBehindTheSofa | 19 Jun 2015 10:57 a.m. PST |
Very nice, but weirdly something says ork rather than space marine to me! May be more Imperial iconography or I've just got too used to the walking coffin (bearing in mind the original Contemptor, Furibundus, etc)? |
Twoball Cane | 19 Jun 2015 5:02 p.m. PST |
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zrunelord | 20 Jun 2015 9:24 a.m. PST |
Great build Dan, I bet there were some very fiddly bits.The best glue I found for paper is fast setting white glue and pressing the part until it welds.Then I let it soak in superglue andlet it harden. Z |
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