Sir Mumsy | 22 May 2015 10:50 a.m. PST |
Please share your method of paintbrush care. I must be doing something wrong as my brushes do not last more than 50 figures before the hairs go in various directions. Currently, I use water base paints -- Model Color Vallejo and a few GW. I dip in water between colors and just soap and water at the end of a painting session. I take care to stroke in one direction when painting as well. Thank you in advance for replies. |
eagleteacher25 | 22 May 2015 10:59 a.m. PST |
After you wash your brushes in a good brush soap try the Mona Lisa brand brush shaper available at Michael's or A. C. Moore stores. It will reshape the bristles. Larry |
John Armatys | 22 May 2015 11:01 a.m. PST |
What sort of brushes are you using? I use Windsor & Newton Series 7 finest sable – they last about 6 months. Cheaper brushes may well have a shorter life. I use similar paints. Ensure that you clean the brush thoroughly, particularly near the ferrule (the metal tube that holds the hairs). You could try using a drop of hair conditioner after cleaning the brushes every now and again. |
Rich Bliss | 22 May 2015 12:01 p.m. PST |
If you've got bristle spread, it may be because you're overloading the brush. Ideally, the paint should only go about halfway up the bristles. Also, try to avoid "dotting" and paint with as long a stroke as is practical. |
CeruLucifus | 22 May 2015 1:02 p.m. PST |
Rather than hair conditioner or other improvised cleaners, there is a product made specifically for cleaning paintbrushes, called … brush soap. I use the Masters brand brush soap which comes in cake form. You wet the brush, swirl in the soap, then swirl the brush to make suds on your pallet or palm of your hand. Swirl until the suds are gone, rinse. Repeat until the brush is its original color. If the brush is splayed, continue until dark flecks come out; this is dried paint stuck up near the ferrule. Continue until no more flecks come out. This can go on for a long time; it's quite amazing how much can be in there. Once you are satisfied the brush is really clean, make more suds and use them to shape the brush, then leave to dry. The Masters brush soap replaces oils in natural fiber brushes. This is basically what hair conditioner does. I don't think I've thrown out a brush since I got this stuff. It can restore brushes you think are hopeless. |
Cyrus the Great | 22 May 2015 1:18 p.m. PST |
Taklon brushes are garbage. They always get what I call the "J" curl at the brush tip. Brush soap and brush shaper will not alleviate that. Quality sables brushes, with the care mentioned here, will last a long time. |
jeffreyw3 | 22 May 2015 4:03 p.m. PST |
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Sir Mumsy | 22 May 2015 4:42 p.m. PST |
Thank you everyone for the excellent and helpful replies. I have been using synthetic brushes because I prefer the firm feel of the brush strokes -- more control. I will use up the synthetic brushes I have and invest in a few sable ones later as well as brush shaper and soap. Thank you again. Regards, Nina |
JSchutt | 22 May 2015 4:58 p.m. PST |
Sable is the way to go for anything serious. Does anyone know if sable bristles are harvested from live animals like wool or do the animals need to "expire" to become a paint brush? My guilty conscious is pending. |
Tacitus | 22 May 2015 11:44 p.m. PST |
I actually like the way talk on performs, but I know going in that I've got 2-3 months tops before it's off to the trash. |
John Armatys | 23 May 2015 3:49 a.m. PST |
Does anyone know of a supplier of Masters Brush Soap (or an equivalent) in the UK? |
Sir Mumsy | 23 May 2015 7:01 a.m. PST |
JSchutt. I goggled about sable hair for paintbrush and found varying answers. The answer for me is -- I am not a vegetarian to begin with. Yes, there is a distinction between a matter of consuming meat for survival and killing for paintbrush. At this point, I'm going to pick my battle and put a higher priority on miniatures than weasels -- I'll probably come back as a weasel in my next life as punishment. Tacitus. I'm tired of having to replace synthetic brushes after 50 miniatures. I will probably still use synthetic ones when using metallic and ink washes. Mr. John Armatys. Synthetic brushes are what I have been using. I didn't even know about brush soap until now. I hope someone will be able provide a UK supplier for you. |
idontbelieveit | 23 May 2015 9:52 a.m. PST |
Start with one W&N Series 7 size 0 and see how much you can do with it. I think you'll be amazed. Mine last far longer than 6 months. And even when they are retired because their point isn't precise I have lots of uses for them for a very long time. Well worth the $$$. |
Sir Mumsy | 23 May 2015 6:33 p.m. PST |
Update. I went to Blick's looking for brush cleaner, shaper and sable brushes today. I was able to purchase the Master soap and brush shaper, but no sable brushes -- the section was almost totally cleared. A worker explained about the shortage of sable brushes… Surprisingly, I had gone to play DBMM at Games Plus in Mount Prospect (Illinois)in the afternoon and discovered they had a very nice selection of W&N series 7 of various sizes. I purchased 4 of different sizes to try out. Awesome store and staff! Yes, I am so addicted to wargaming! Thank you everyone for your helpful replies. Thread closed. |
jeffreyw3 | 24 May 2015 6:49 a.m. PST |
Mumsy…they just cleared "sable" brushes for sale in the US again, so yes, I would expect them to be scarce. If you like the "springier" feel, (I have a Vallejo 3/0 I used for that reason), try the W&N Series 7 "Miniature" brushes. The hairs are shorter and the feel is different from the standard watercolor rounds. I have a #2 that does nearly everything on my 28mm figures. |