"1/76 Matchbox tread problem" Topic

I recently picked up three old 1/76-scale Matchbox kits (still sealed): a Panzer 2 and 3 and a Wespe. I built the Panzer 3 this evening and it turned out very nicely. I always loved how sensible and easy the black rubber treads went together on Matchbox kits.

I opened the Wespe and the Panzer 2 and the treads are not made with the black rubber I've always seen, but a light grey plastic. Clearly from the proper moulds but the material was not right. Either the plastic was always hard or has changed over time. As soon as I started touching the treads, they started to crumble and are unsalvageable.

My question is whether anyone has thoughts about how to replace the treads? The models are for gaming so the fix needn't be perfect. That said, rubber bands are probably not an acceptable substitute.

Oh what wisdom does the TMP brain trust have for me?

Also, anyone ever run into grey Matchbox treads before? New on me after 30-some years of building models.

thanks kindly

Bob

I seem to remember flexible grey tracks with old kits from my past, probably matchbox as that was my preferred manufacturer.

Robert

You aren't the first to have this problem. You'll have to find aftermarket tracks, which won't be common for 1/76 scale or even 1/72 scale. You might have to consider using 1/72 scale replacement tracks (that will end up costing as much as the original model).

Yes, this is a common problem with certain production runs of Matchbox kits. My own experience was with the M16 MGMC. On opening the kit after it had been sitting on my shelf for a while, I discovered the tracks had the strength of wafers of soap.

As already mentioned above, there are after market tracks available for many vehicles but they are a) expensive and b) mostly 1/72 (but not impossible to modify for 1/76). For some examples of what is available check out the link I posted in this recent TMP thread:

TMP link

I have some of those Matchbox kits. What I remember most about them is that at one time the plastic for the kits came in two different colors and the diorama stand.

But I also remember seeing these with either black or gray tracks. The gray ones might not be made of material that would last over time, but even the black ones can crack and fall apart.

Also read:

Sadly, I know of any 1:76 after market replacement tracks.

On TMP we have:
TMP link

But if you do a search on google with "1:76 after market tracks" or "1:76 replacement tracks" you get multiple hits like:

The following thread on another forum might be helpful:
link

link

Very helpful, TMP sages. Thanks. I was wondering about constructing some from either paper or thin card. Or perhaps both, with the paper serving as the base and carefully scored card as the tread.

Concerningly, my computer just autocorrect "scored" as "divorced". Perhaps this is some sort of new functionality Bill has built in where the forum prognosticates on bad ideas?

I think I will build the lower hulls and then start fiddling with replacements. A heavy coat of mud and dust may help hide my half assed efforts.

Thanks also for the background on the grey treads. Interesting!

Bob

The paper and card tracks is doable but a complete PITA. The grey plastic tracks weren't all that hot when brand new, it doesn't surprise me they got worse with age.

Fatman

Some gamers have made acceptable looking tracks in that scale from plastic zip-ties:

You can find them in various widths and colors. They carry them in just about every DIY store, as well as Target and Walmart, and online.

jpattern2: My hero! I have some in the closet for holiday lights. Perfect.

Cool, let us know how they work out.

Ooooh shiny I would never have thought of that!

Fatman

I've used the zip tie approach for replacement tracks on an old jagdpanzer IV--seemed to come out all right (but then, these aren't being put together for a diorama, but for playing with).

Rob

So far I think the lesson is that the thinnest possible zip-ties are the ones to get. I have two kinds in the tool box but both are probably on the thicker side. Managed to save the Panzer 2 using a wrap-around approach but had a hard time achieving the bends I wanted (tie too thick). On the Wespe I'm piecing together treads. Better fit but way higher PITA factor. Pictures when they are done in a week or so.

I haven't had the opportunity, but i always intended to replace old tracks with the plastic binding that comes on printer paper boxes. Like zip ties, but thinner.

This is a road it seems quite a few of us have travelled…

I have experimented with zip-ties and found them not really flexible enough. I think the plastic binding strips from printer paper boxes are better and easier to work with. With all of these completely DIY options you will generally get a better result if you also base the vehicle as you then only really need to add a bit of detail to the ends of the tracks and disguise the rest with plenty of "mud".

Would be interesting to know whether Revell will supply replacements in exchange for some cash.