"Help - how best to clean metallics off brushes?" Topic

Hi all, does anyone have any tips for how best to clean metallic paint off brushes? I'm not asking for miracles, but it would be nice to be able to get a couple of sessions out of a dedicated metallics brush before it's useless.

I use Gunze Sangyo and Tamiya paints and no matter what I seem to do they just wreck the brushes pretty much immediately. I've tried brush cleaner, water and soap, but it doesn't seem to be able to prolong a brush's life at all. The point will be gone within two uses and it'll thereafter be no good for detail work so it's time to wreck another one.

It's so frustrating that I've resorted to using toothpicks and match ends to do some metallic work just to save a brush.

What do you fellows and fellesses do?

Cheers,
Aaron

Nver had any problem with acrylic or enamal besed metallic paints. Just deal with them the same as any other colour of paint.

I have never had problems with Tamiya metallics. Are your paints starting to dry ouy?

Yes, some are drying out.

Yes, some are drying out.

Well, that's probably why they're gunging up your brushes. Time to bite the bullet and buy some more paint …

Hmm, maybe, but once they start drying out I do just buy new ones. Maybe I need to experiment with different thinners and see if they work better for cleaning.

Thanks for your suggestions anyway!

Cheers,
Aaron

Silly question, but what are you using to clean them now?

Maybe I need to experiment with different thinners and see if they work better for cleaning.

You should only use thinner that is similar to the base constituent of the paint, so for enamel paints I use white spirit and for acrylics I use water. Anything else probably won't work.

Yep, MajorB is on the case… White spirit should do the trick.

Yep, MajorB is on the case… White spirit should do the trick.

But aren't the paints he is using (Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo) both water based acrylics?

I was not aware that the metallic were water-based.

Maybe I need to experiment with different thinners and see if they work better for cleaning.

Tamiya has a proprietary thinner for their acrylic products, X-20A. It is either denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or some other form of alcohol (based on what I looked up just now and by the scent of a bottle of Tamiya paint). It probably has a retarding agent as well.

As I recall the thinner contains glycol.

I use isopropyl or water for thinning and it seems to work reasonably well. Clean the brushes with water.

The only metallic I have is their gunmetal and have only used it once – too black for most of my ancients, will probably be used when I get to Renaissance/ECW.

As to Gunze Sanyo they appear to have two line – one water based – Mr. Hobby Color – the other solvent (toluene) – Mr. Color. For the later apparently you need acetone or toluene lacquer thinner.

On the brush durability note, over the last 16 mos or so I have found that for general use I get a couple of sessions with the sable or other natural fiber brushes (a bit more using water based acrylics). My most durable brushes are the cheaper synthetics – I have been using some of them for over a year (and one taklon brush was used by my brother over a decade ago when he was painting models).

P.S. Due to its resistance to the solvent in the varnish I use I have been using some old xylene based Floquil metallics and cleaning the brushes with xylene after doing so. The synthetic brushes don't seem to mind.

Isopropyl alcohol for tamiya works best, water and white spirit will turn the paint to "gunge" and clog the brush up but you already know that

Buy the Tamiya thinner, IA or alcohol based window cleaner. Personally I use the Tamiya thinner but have tried all three.

Note: alcohol based not ammonia based.

when your done painting one last thing, clean brush using soap and water and then put some hair conditioner on it and reform the point, alcohol isn't kind to natural bristle brushes

CA debonder but be careful. That stuff will take varnish off of table tops, dyes out of your clothes, it will even unglue the ferrule of your paintbrush if you let it soak in.

Thanks again! Will try some different thinners and see if they work better. I have the Mr Color and Tamiya ones and will see how we go.

Cheers,
Aaorn

Isopropyl alcohol for Tamiya works best, water and white spirit will turn the paint to "gunge"

That would imply that the Tamiya paints are NOT water based.

I have the Mr Color

the other solvent (toluene) – Mr. Color.

So you'll need a toluene based thinner.

I reiterate my previous point – You should only use thinner that is similar to the base constituent of the paint.

Personally I'll stick to Coat d'Arms. They are water based and I have had no problems whatsoever with them and using water as a thinner.

Here's a useful thread about Tamiya paints:
TMP link

- apparently they are NOT designed for brush application!!

I use water based acrylic and never had problems.

Tamiya is definitely not water-based. Just open a bottle and take a good sniff. The alcohol will probably burn out your nosehairs.

The point with Tamiya paints is to use some water in thinning as it reduces the rate at which the alcohol evaporates (drugstore Isopropyl runs 10 to 30 percent water).

When painting with the Tamiya paints I usually shake up the bottle, remove the lid, cover the bottle, and use the paint on the lid until it is gone or until finished with that color. If the paint dries as I am working I find that a dip of the brush into water and a quick swirl in the lid keeps it going.

Depending on the liquidity of the paint in the bottle I add a bit of alky and/or water as necessary.

I have only done a hundred or so figures with these paints, but it appears to be working.

Tamiya is definitely not water-based. Just open a bottle and take a good sniff. The alcohol will probably burn out your nosehairs.

It can contain isopropyl and butyl alcohol but it is still water based. The alcohol is added because of its volatility which causes faster drying.

I actually paint exactly like goragrad!