"What exactly do I need to start painting miniatures?" Topic

The last time I painted miniatures was almost 5 year ago. I currently have the following items to paint with, what else exactly do I need? I am painting 32mm Heroic Scale miniatures.

I have:

* The Army Painter Warpaints Starter Paint Set

* Liquitex Black Gesso Medium 8oz.

* Paint Brushes

* The Army Painter Quickshades Dip

Do I need paint thinner or anything else? If so, what brands and where should I buy it?

Any responses will be appreciated.

Thank you.

You only need paint thinner if you are using enamel paint.
You should also consider a CHEAP spray primer. I recommend either Walmart Flat White or Flat Black. Avoid "hobby" primers.

That looks pretty complete to me. The 'Liquitex Black Gesso Medium' would not have been my under coat of choice and I'd need a magnifier due to elderly eyes if you've good eyes no need (I use 'Rolson 2 LED Magnifying Visor' link ).

Nearly forgot good lighting.

x42

Yes, good lighting, a comfortable place to sit with a desk to rest your arms.
A paint palette for mixing colors or placing drops in.
X-acto knife for cleaning figures.
I use 3.0 Reading glasses, they work just fine and are cheap.

Practice, take a garbage figure and paint away.
Try, block colors, dry brushing, layering (highlights) and washes.

Love

Nothing more, nothing less. Love is the best.

Minatures to paint.
Paints
Brushes
A painting table with a good light source if natural light not available
Water for acrylics paints
Thinner for enamel paints
Tissues to wipe brushes

Oh and plenty of time …

Motivation!

I have the time but I'm doing almost everything but paint at the moment. I've been preparing figures, building scenery, researching army lists etc but haven't put paint on a figure for weeks if not months, and I'm not entirely sure why I currently have that 'block'.

Good lighting

A cup to put water in for washing your brushes out which doesn't look like the ones you put your tea/coffee in.

Some scarp plastic to use as a palette to mix paints on.

But really, you don't need a ton of stuff. Brushes, paint, somewhere to sit.

You can make your own washes and dips (paint+water).

You'll need some stuff for basing, washers/pennies/artists mountboard etc, PVA, sand/flock.

Even more paint?

Talent. Sadly, I lack it.

Talent is learned through practice. My advice is just keep plodding along and looking at other peoples work and asking lots of questions. Most people that paint well will gladly tell you their techniques.

Lighting, lighting, lighting.

If you use gesso for the primer/undercoat, be sure to allow plenty of time for it to dry and cure, at least overnight. I like using gesso, but it does add to prep time before you can start the actual painting.

I found the video tutorial "Masterworks Miniature Painting with Jen Haley & Anne Foerster" helpful with terms & techniques I wasn't familiar with. Things like how to make washes, glazes, dry brushing, wet brushing, highlights, wet on wet blending, triads, etc.

Also get some brush cleaner. I use Mona Lisa brand Pink Soap.It's a pink liquid not a soap bar. I use Winsor & Newton Kolinsky sable brushes and the pink soap helps to keep their point as well as their "consistancy" for the lack of a better word.

Practice, patience and the best lit room you can find, I use a daylight bulb and lamp.

As others have said, with acrylics you want water for washing brushes (and diluting paints if needed). I'd suggest two cheap plastic cups.

Why two? One for "dirty" washing, one for "clean" washing (ie, after it's been jiggled around in the "dirty" pot and the excess absorbed onto tissue).

also, go look online for great conversions, projects and paintjobs to inspire you (although I tend to find they quickly make me weep as I will never get to that standard).

there is some good stuff on LAF, Dakka Dakka and other places out there.

I second Winston Smith's suggestion of spray primer, saves SO much time (and extends the life of any brushes you would have otherwise used to do the priming with!). Just be wary of excessive humidity giving a powdery finish.

Talent is learned through practice.

No, SKILL (aka technique) is learned through practice. Talent exists or it doesn't. Skill makes for workman-like paint jobs. Skill plus talent makes for outstanding paint jobs.

You like to drink right?….

So how is this "For discussion of community issues involving the website, including requests for new Message Boards, and just saying "hi" to Bill Armintrout (the Editor)."?

I'd suggest a white, ceramic tile, 4"- to 6"-square. It makes an excellent palette: when the paint is dried on, just scrape it off with a knife, or razor blade, as the surface is smooth glass. They are inexpensive, easy to use, easy to replace, if necessary. If you need to mix paints, or Magic Wash, do it on the surface, as needed. Clean-up is easy-peasy. Cheers!

Reference material. I know some people get incredibly sniffy at the mere mention of an Osprey but I find they can be an invaluable aid when painting particularly subjects I'm not overly familiar with.

Stuff to clean and assemble the figures.

Plastic clippers
X-Acto knife
Small files, such as "rat tail" files
Plastic cement such as Testors for hard plastics
Superglue for metal figures

You got all the basics.

I'd add some basing material. You can start as easy as "white glue + flock" or go old school and use sand.

Even a very basic base will make the miniature really pop.

For a primer, just go to the grocery store and get some cheap stuff there, it'll work fine. Test on one disposable figure first though.

Most of what's been said but good quality brushes can save a lot of frustration. The smallest brushes made aren't necessarily the best for figure painting, a decent sized brush (2 or 3) that has and holds a good point is better. The old maxim of buying the best you can afford works every time; (Winsor and Newton series 7 do it for me).

Oh and a steady hand helps :)

A steady hand for the tiny details greetings serge joe

cameronian is spot on. Use a decent sized brush for all but the finest detail. Too many seem to use extremely fine brushes for everything and get frustrated when it takes ages to block figures in. If you're set on using dip, it covers a lot of small overpaint errors that you might waste time touching up.

You are overthinking …

Start – and see what happens.

Let us know

Engraving pen. $10 USD at Harbor Freight. Great for scraping off mold lines.

Army Painter Quickshade Ink set. I use them to thin paints.

Did you make a wet pallet?

I would second the Army Painter Quickshade ink set. Very good stuff.
Lots of people recommend cheap spray primer. I used to use the 99 cent flat black from Home Depot but have since switched to Rustoleum's Painter's Touch brand. Usually runs 3-4 bucks a pop but I find that it seems to be a bit more forgiving of weather issues. Seems to last a bit longer as well. I also have started using the Vallejo polyurethane primer and have been very impressed, although I use an airbrush. Heck, I use Gesso as well!
Don't get a cheap plastic pallet. Get a tile or ceramic pallet. Waaayyy easier to clean and lasts a lifetime! :)

Patience