SquadPainter | 22 Jan 2015 7:14 p.m. PST |
I just finished up my greatcoated French of the 100th Bataillion, 2nd Brigade. I thought they turned out really well.
I used Army Painter Quickshade with the old basecoat-dip-highlight sequence.
I was especially pleased with the regular uniforms as I was expecting them to get muddy looking… and they didn't! More pictures are on my blog: Perry French in Greatcoats Thank you for looking and feel free to comment… especially let me know if I messed up on color placement as I don't want to make errors in the future. Thanks! - Jeff squadpainter.blogspot.com |
GROSSMAN | 22 Jan 2015 8:40 p.m. PST |
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HussarL | 22 Jan 2015 9:01 p.m. PST |
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combatpainter | 22 Jan 2015 9:36 p.m. PST |
Smart leaving those eyes undone. Beautiful! |
WarWizard | 23 Jan 2015 3:59 a.m. PST |
Those are very well done. |
jeffreyw3 | 23 Jan 2015 5:47 a.m. PST |
Agreed with combatpainter. Now, if I could just get my Perry faces to look like that… |
deadhead | 23 Jan 2015 6:20 a.m. PST |
Must ask about the photography. Outdoors and daylight I presume. Interested in lens, f number and ASA equivalent esp. Faces are brilliant. If that is what Quickshade can do I might have something to replace Ogryn Fleshshade which is irreplaceable and almost run out! I keep trying to produce subtle eyes, but have come back to what you have done. Even at this magnification, it looks far more realsitic |
stoneman1810 | 23 Jan 2015 6:42 a.m. PST |
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Joes Shop | 23 Jan 2015 6:51 a.m. PST |
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SquadPainter | 23 Jan 2015 7:07 a.m. PST |
Combat Painter – I always go back and forth on whether or not to do eyes. As you can see from my blog, I can do them. But it is easy and fast not to do so, especially with the Quickshade. On the Voltigeurs I actually missed a step: after the Quickshade is brushed on and allowed to dry, I normally go in and hit the eye sockets and mouth with the lightest touch of GW dark brown wash (whatever that color is called this week). It adds a bit more contrast which I like. – Jeff |
SquadPainter | 23 Jan 2015 7:17 a.m. PST |
JeffreyW3 - Good morning! You can get your Perry faces to look like that! I used a GW standard brush (as opposed to my usual Raphael 8404 #2 and #0) for their faces on this job. I wanted to see if I could get good results using chunky equipment. For the Voltigeurs it was just blocked in flesh and hair colors, then Quickshade brushed on. After that a dab of Terracotta for the lip and four dabs of flesh highlight for the face (nose, cheek, cheek, chin). Done! I wear 2.75x magnifying reading glasses to when I paint to see the details. My wrists always touch as if I were praying to help stop the shaky hands. I know that you can do it too. Feel free to contact me here or on my blog if you want more pointers or if I can help or coach you in any other way… we are all on the same team! - Jeff |
SquadPainter | 23 Jan 2015 7:28 a.m. PST |
Deadhead - Hello! The camera I used is Canon Powershot SX260 HS. I set the camera to the "Heart" setting which is the full auto easy mode with the flash disabled. It recognizes faces of the miniatures and adjusted its settings automatically. I get very close to the miniatures which forces a wide f-stop and thereby a shallow depth of field. But I like that effect. It knows to go into macro mode at the settings mentioned when the camera is that close (2-4 inches away). I took the pictures yesterday outside in my back yard very close to the magic hour at dusk. The sun is behind some low level clouds and haze which prevents harsh shadows. The figures are on a stone wall with grass and whatnot behind them. I hope I answered your questions. I like shooting outside using indirect natural light when I can. It makes everything look nice! - Jeff |
deadhead | 23 Jan 2015 7:50 a.m. PST |
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SquadPainter | 23 Jan 2015 8:49 a.m. PST |
Deadhead - You are welcome! I just noticed that I neglected to reply to your comment regarding the faces. I think that this result should be achievable by most people. I used Foundry Flesh midtone for the base and Foundry Flesh highlight for the four dabs of highlight. Finding the proper colors is important when you are using the Quickshade. Some colors do better than others after the dip has been applied. You should try it out! - Jeff |
wargame insomniac | 23 Jan 2015 2:40 p.m. PST |
Jeff. Great looking infantry. Hope mine turn out this good. What Shade of Quickshade did you use? |
SquadPainter | 23 Jan 2015 3:20 p.m. PST |
Hi Wargame Insomniac! You can sleep easier knowing that I used Army Painter Quickshade: Strong Tone. Light does nothing and Dark's black shading is too harsh for my tastes. The Strong Tone in the middle is, to quote Goldilocks, "Just right." - Jeff |
wargame insomniac | 24 Jan 2015 9:40 a.m. PST |
That's where I had got to in my own tests on greatcoated French infantry. I loved Dark tone when painting LOTR Uruk-Hai but it would he been way too strong for these. Likewise I have so far been unimpressed with Soft Tone – maybe it would work on whites and yellow and light blues, but I am not sure I want to use4 it on French. Good to know that others are thinking along same lines. |
SquadPainter | 25 Jan 2015 7:00 a.m. PST |
WI – Yes, we are in agreement on the Strong Tone. It just seems to work better. I am still finding that some paint colors work better than others with the Quickshade. Generally lighter tones are better. But, some darker ones surprise me. The shading on the French blue coats was a pleasant surprise. I thought I was going to have to highlight them… but I didn't have to! Every step that is avoided saves time. Now that my wife and I have our little baby, every spare minute of hobby time must be maximized. - Jeff |
JezEger | 25 Jan 2015 10:56 a.m. PST |
Nice result. If I may ask a couple of questions. What colours did you use for the basecoating? Also, when you highlighted, did you use the same basecoat, or a lighter colour (I assume the dip darkens the original basecoat). Thanks in advance, I have several boxes of Perry and Victrix to get through and this looks great. I don't want to reinvent the wheel as you seem to have got it sorted already! |
deadhead | 25 Jan 2015 10:58 a.m. PST |
Squadpainter, Wait till the babies get to be, in my case, 19 year old twin boys and a 33 year old father himself. To paraphrase Wellington, thank God I do not know what it is to have a daughter, but, even sons, they terrify me. You might well think it will get easier, but I could not possibly comment………… |
Lord Hill | 25 Jan 2015 12:19 p.m. PST |
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SquadPainter | 25 Jan 2015 6:26 p.m. PST |
JezEger – I'll find my mix sheet and get back to you on it. They were all Foundry paints. Some colors, such as the red and the yellow and green, I just hit them with the same color after the dip. However, on the face I started with Foundry Flesh midtone and highlighted it with four dabs (nose, cheek, cheek, chin) of Foundry Flesh light. Those are what I remember off hand. Let me find that paper. I know it is around here somewhere… - Jeff |
kalgaloth | 25 Jan 2015 9:10 p.m. PST |
Which of the quick shades did you use? The strong tone? |
SquadPainter | 26 Jan 2015 7:45 a.m. PST |
Kalgaloth – Good morning! Yes, I used the Strong Tone dip. I continually find that the Dark tone is too black, and the Light tone doesn't do enough. The Strong Tone is the sweet spot: it isn't too dark on light colors, and it is just dark enough for the darker paints to shade them. Strong Tone also makes the flesh on faces look great… and faces are what people always look at on a model! - Jeff |
SquadPainter | 26 Jan 2015 7:52 a.m. PST |
Deadhead - Three children?!? My goodness. My congratulations (and prayers) go out to you! My wife and I have our hands full with one boy and we are excited about the prospect of another. But I can't imagine having three little ones running about. The mayhem must have been staggering. Ha ha! Good for you! - Jeff |
SquadPainter | 26 Jan 2015 7:56 a.m. PST |
JezEger - I found on my blog the information that I was looking for (and you should visit the blog and click the "Army Painter" tag to see Napoleonic French, Austrians, Zulus, and WWII Soviets dipped and highlighted to various levels of success): "They were undercoated with a spray of Armory gray primer. Next they were painted with Foundry: Flesh B, Scarlet B, White, Dusky Flesh B, Spearshaft B, Tan B, Sky Blue A, Bay Brown B, Storm Blue C, Ochre B, Moss B, Royal Purple B, Rawhide B, and Granite C. Black was also used to undercoat all metal areas. Then they were dipped. Finally they were highlighted with Foundry Flesh C, White, Spearpoint C, Burning Gold B, and Royal Purple C. The lower lip got a touch of Terracotta. The silver metal bits were also given a coat of Games Workshop Badab Black wash to tone them down. The faces and some folds were also touched with GW Devlan Mud wash (mouth, eyes, etc.) to give them a bit more definition." - Jeff squadpainter.blogspot.com |
JezEger | 26 Jan 2015 12:53 p.m. PST |
Many thanks. Absolutely the kind of sharing of info this site should be about! Right, time to start clipping sprues…….. |
SquadPainter | 26 Jan 2015 7:31 p.m. PST |
JezEger – It is my pleasure. My efforts wouldn't be nearly as nice without the help and kindness of others answering my many questions. Best of luck on those troops! Here is another image for inspiration:
[/URL] Good luck! - Jeff squadpainter.blogspot.com |