"Grinding down bases" Topic

I am working with some new Battlefront 15mm. Nice figures, but the bases are enormously thick. I can generally work around this by putting more goop on the stand when I finish it, but these are gun crews and the bases really interfere with the placement of the actual gun. Which then has to be shimmed up to clear that bases, blah, blah, blah.

Is there a good way to grind down the bases to a more reasonable thickness? I had thought a belt sander would work, but it would have to be some severe sandpaper to take down metal, and I can't imagine how one holds a 15mm figure while using the thing. I imagine it slipping out of my fingers and ending up embedded in the wall. And besides, I don't own a belt sander (anymore).

Does anyone have any suggestions?

I do it all the time using a dremel with the round sand paper tube (also called a band and drum).

Catch the shaving in a box lid as it makes great filler material with super glue.

Vince

I use a large rough flat file, like 1"x8". Lay it on the table with some paper towel or something underneath to catch the filings. Just run the miniature back and forth.

It does get a bit tiring, but it shaves down the bottom of FoW minis pretty quick.

Bench, Belt sander would do the trick very quickly.

Bench grinder. I have one and it's awesome. Lots of modeling uses. On small figures though the heat can transfer up the figure pretty fast. I've burnt my fingers more than once grinding off some part.

Cheers, Xin

Cheap option….

link

I'm sure that bench grinder does a great job but it's probably a little excessive for Mserafin's needs. I favor Haywire's approach; the Dremel will do the job, but ideally you should have the figure clamped to Dremel it. With an ordinary flat file you can hold the edges of the base and rub it back and forth on the file.

I have used a bench grinder, too, but two things:

1. As Xintao says, heat transfers quickly. Wear gloves.
2. Mini metal is very soft and gums up the wheel quickly.

Most often I use a flat file as haywire stated.

Large flat file set on the workbench, wear gloves. I do this to all my miniatures to remove flash and or have them sit level on their bases.

I use a large flat file though it too can generate significant heat if you are not careful. Not to the extent of burning fingers but it can be unpleasant. If you file for short bursts then not a problem. The advantages of a large file, apart from cost, is that it doesn't get clogged with grindings and the large flat surface enables an even surface to be created on the base quickly. You need the paper towel to catch the filings, as mentioned before, and a quick tap of the file afterwards to clear what is left on the file itself.

Robert

I cannot recommend a bench grinder, soft metal can cause those grinding discs to load up and then shatter due to the uneven weight distribution. You do NOT want to be anywhere near a grinding wheel when it shatters!

Personally, I use a 10" mill file. Just make sure you also get a "file card" (brush-like thing to clear the metal out of the file teeth) and use it often.

The one thing I would NOT use is a belt sander or a grinder. As Lion said, the risk of a something going very wrong (and land you in the ER) isn't worth the risk. I've seen the results of a shattered grinding wheel, and it WASN'T pretty (lots of blood, pain and an extended (and expensive) ER visit).

Get a 10" mill file (and a file card) and do it the old fashioned way. It'll take a little longer, but is a whole lot safer… (Unless you really do like hospital food…)

Thanks, gentlemen. I think the 10" mill file seems the thing for my current circumstances (apartment).

But I really like Vince's solution for when I have a dedicated workspace again.

The problem with filing and/or grinding is that you get lead or plastic dust everywhere, including in your lungs, which is bad for your health.

Instead, I suggest you clip the figures off at the feet with flush-cut pliers, like these: link. For large-scale figures, you can touch up the bottom of the feet with a sharp metal file, so they stand straight.

Then glue to the base. Use 5-minute epoxy mixed in batches. Put some glue on the base, some on the feet of the figure, allow to become tacky, and stick together (you want them to stand up – hence the need for tackiness).

This is how I do both 15mm and 6mm.

MH

Given that QRF has had zero lead exposure in the workplace for the guys running the casters, I'm pretty sure that white metal dust isn't an issue for lead exposure.

Resin dust, OTOH, yeah, wear a dust mask and use a damp cloth to wipe everything down.

I'm not sure why this is necessary anyway.
1. The new BF bases come with holes so the figures are already countersunk.
2. If using normal bases you normally paint the figures, glue to the base, fill the base, then place the gun on thus the gun is at the correct height anyway.

I file all my cast-on bases, at least to get a flat surface to stick to my real base (regardless of scale).

Sometimes, though, BF minis have a very thick base, particularly the 2007-2010 vintage models.