JimDuncanUK | 15 Dec 2014 9:54 a.m. PST |
Here's how I painted up some Warlord Miniatures Napoleonic Infantry. Worth a look! link |
myxemail | 15 Dec 2014 10:16 a.m. PST |
Both variations on the finishing style look good. Having slight variations in the unit's tone or lightness/darkness level is good, I feel. The units will have more individuality, even though it is a mass of figures. Inspires me to get into this scale… But I must resist. For now. Mike |
Frederick | 15 Dec 2014 10:35 a.m. PST |
|
jambo1 | 15 Dec 2014 10:59 a.m. PST |
They look very nice, I have been thinking of purchasing some Hanoverians,maybe it is time to! |
deadhead | 15 Dec 2014 1:01 p.m. PST |
Must be me, but I loved the darker figures, that you regretted. I go for realism, not parade ground, but understand there is a place for both |
ernieR | 15 Dec 2014 1:01 p.m. PST |
Nice work ! it's quite amazing how good the Army Painter brings out details . one of the rarely mentioned secrets of using Strong Tone is that you should start with a lighter base colour than you want to end up with . or you can do what i do which is highlight with the base colour , but that's more work . |
deadhead | 15 Dec 2014 1:03 p.m. PST |
ernieR…..run that by me again. That sounds interesting. I love rarely mentioned secrets…….. |
JimDuncanUK | 15 Dec 2014 1:24 p.m. PST |
At the end of the day the difference between undiluted Strong Tone and diluted Strong Tone is not that significant. The figures in my example are also subtly different in that one has dark grey trousers and the other has light grey trousers. One has a black shako, the other has a red cap. In combination these also make one figure appear lighter/darker than the other. In the final proofing it will be interesting to see if any distinct difference is visible when I place these figures in a bigger unit. |
JimDuncanUK | 15 Dec 2014 1:30 p.m. PST |
I've succumbed already, just ordered a box of Hanoverians online. |
IronDuke596 | 15 Dec 2014 3:01 p.m. PST |
Jim in your report you state "applying the Strong Tone slightly watered down"; you meant thinned right? The Army Painter that I use is oil based requiring thinners to thin. Do you use enamels? If yes what do use a primer? A great report and thanks for sharing it. |
JimDuncanUK | 15 Dec 2014 3:31 p.m. PST |
@IronDuke596 Nope, water, water, everywhere. I've never ever 'primed' a figure in my 40+ years of painting, not even when enamels were the only paint you could get easily. I do occasionally undercoat a figure, sometimes white, sometime black but in this case not at all. All the paints I use are acrylic, Games Workshop, Foundry, Model Colour, Howard Hughes mostly. The Army Painter Strong Tone I have is water based, it says so on the dropper bottle it comes in. I couldn't say what comes in the tin version. I wet the bottom of a mixing tray with a few brushloads of clean water, drip a few drops of Strong Tone and brush onto a figure so it's probably a 50/50 mix. The varnish I use is also acrylic, Windsor & Newton Galeria Artists Matt Varnish, sold in most good hobby shops and art shops. |
mysteron | 16 Dec 2014 3:37 a.m. PST |
Just for Clarification there are 2 types of Army Painter shading products. The original type is the "Quickshade " range and is oil based and purchased in cans. This is the range most commonly referred to. The second type which I think Jim is referring to is their Acrylic "Warpaints" range and is sold in small dropper bottles( similar to Vallejio). These are indeed thinned down with water. I use both types . The Acrylic shader is useful for touching up or if you feel the Quickshade has missed an area. |
Marc the plastics fan | 16 Dec 2014 4:11 a.m. PST |
My experience is that the water based version "darkens" more than the tin version – good colour match, for missed areas as above, but not a 100% substitute in my experience. |
IronDuke596 | 16 Dec 2014 9:37 a.m. PST |
Jim, mysteron and Marc; many thanks for the clarifications. |
JimDuncanUK | 20 Dec 2014 6:45 a.m. PST |
Look at this link for a wash/dip test on French blue. TMP link |