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"Airbushing" Topic


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jwebster Supporting Member of TMP23 Nov 2014 6:01 p.m. PST

I have been a good boy this year and Santa is thinking about putting an airbrush in his sack – I would like some advice …

I expect to use it for priming/base coating miniatures, scenery and some 1/72 tanks. Thinking of getting the Iwata Neo CN brush

1) Vallejo game air recommend 10-15 psi – is this typical for a/b paints ?

2) Does anyone have the master airbrush tc60 compressor ? Anything good or bad to say about it ?

link

3) Any recommended paint for beginner ? – particularly for practise before I start to ruin something good

4) I am expecting to get the Iwata-Medea cleaning station, a quick disconnect, Iwata-Medea cleaning fluid, resperator. Is there any other accessory to recommend ?

5) Has anyone tried the Vallejo Model air primers ?

Thanks

John

Dr Mathias Fezian23 Nov 2014 6:45 p.m. PST

I HATE basecoating, so I use an airbrush for the major color.

1) I usually spray around 30-35 psi. I drop it if I need to get in close to spray in a crevice or something.

3) Avoid cheap craft paints, they have larger particles and higher binder/filler ratio and clog easier than most miniature acrylics.

5) Just tried them recently- I like them. I usually prime with Dupli-Color automotive spray cans, but I needed to prime just a couple singles and a small area on a building. I may switch over completely.

Bryan Stroup23 Nov 2014 6:47 p.m. PST

Iwata makes a good airbrush. I'm partial to Badger myself (the khrome for actual painting and the 200 single action for primer jobs), but at that level, they are all solid.

I also recommend Badger's new Stynylrez primers. They are rather awesome. Here's a video review: link

Fizzypickles23 Nov 2014 7:05 p.m. PST

Get yourself a compressor with a tank link

It means it won't be constantly running as you airbrush. This one is pretty quiet.

The Neo by IWATA is a good starting brush and fine for everything you have said you want to do. Personally I wouldn't spend the money on airbrush cleaner buy some Isopropanol and mix it 50/50 with distilled water link
Or you can use windshield wash concentrate and mix 50/50 with distilled water. You go through a lot of cleaner.

Vallejo Air paint and primer is good and will go through a Neo neat @ 20-25 psi no probs.

McWong7323 Nov 2014 8:30 p.m. PST

Neo best choice; dont clean with window cleaner as anmonia will disolve the rubber seals on the neo. Will post more once I'm back at aproper keyboard and not mobile.

Fizzypickles24 Nov 2014 6:34 a.m. PST

There is no ammonia in Windshield wash….it's almost always composed of one type of alcohol or another plus water and sometimes a surfactant. I've been using it for years. It's just a case of saving some money.

Having said that, you can always check the actual ingredients by looking up the msds sheets This is the one I use.
PDF link

McWong7325 Nov 2014 12:29 a.m. PST

I've had rubber o rings get royally screwed by windex, but your right that you should take a quick precaution to check ingredients first.

But yeah, the Neo has been the best value for money ab I've owned. It does maybe 75% of what the top end ab's will do, and honestly 100% of what beginners can do with an ab. There are some selling for less than $50 USD on ebay.

You can get the extra doodads, but you don't need to buy branded ones. PSI for me has been anywhere from 10 to 50psi depending on what I'm doing. I'm almost always working 15mm scale models though, and larger scales have their own requirements.

Paint wise it depends on what your painting. If its tanks then take a look at AK interactive and Ammo from Mig. Both ranges have color matching sets containing various shades of yohr standard olive drabs, russian greens and so on. This means you don't need to custom mix for shading or highlighting, so much less stress for you. If fantasy or sci fi, vallejo model air and game air are where you want to be. All these paints are much thinner than vallejo model colour or citadel, so you need to thin less. I use the thinner from the manufacturer of whichever paint I'm using. I know you can just use a mix of winder and water, but I've had some absolute disasters with these mixes. Also don't assume tamiya thinner will work with other paints, tamiya paints are lacquers, not acrylics.

I clean with isopropyl/distilled water mix, but also have branded ab cleaner to back that up. I've used vallejo and ak primers. Vallejo for some reason feels better, but both kind of suck in terms of getting a solid coat quickly. Unless you're dealing with uber detailed models, I usually just use citadel primer. I actually use a lot of autoprimer as well because many resins out there suck at taking acrylic primer, but also because you want a solid coat as wargaming models are handled a lot.

Get some iwata ab lube as well, I found doing a basic disassembly on the neo, and lubricating the trigger, air valve and needle made a difference. And I bought two of them, tried one out of the box and did a service on the other before use. Big difference!

jwebster Supporting Member of TMP10 Dec 2014 7:54 p.m. PST

Thanks for the advice

I am getting the Master Tc20-T (the one with the tank) and the Neo-CN

Merry Christmas

John

ced110621 Dec 2014 9:59 p.m. PST

Late to the thread, but Amazon's been having Holiday Deals for Badger paint and air brushes. Just missed the 5pm sale, but if they've had this deal four or five times since November. I have a Holiday Deals thread on Dakka News and Rumors where I've been posting anything I see on Amazon that might be useful for the miniatures gamers there.

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