"Stripping paint off lead figures?" Topic

I recently started to get interested again in WW2. I have a couple of hundred AB 20mm leads, which I brought out of the back of the closet. They were painted in the 1990's. I paint in a different style now and the figures don't please me as much as my newer style does.

Is it possible to strip the paint off these leads and repaint them? They are painted w Humbrol enamels with a generic acrylic matte varnish on top of the paint coat.

How time-consuming and disaster-likely would this be?

How would one go about doing it?

Thanks

It's going to be messy and you are like lu to loose some detail. I'd start off soaking them in Simple Green for a day or two and then use an old toothbrush to see what comes off. I've never tried to,strip enamel so I'm not sure how well that will work. If the Simple Green isn't strong enough you'll need to move up to actual paint remover. In any event make sure you rinse will on water and completely dry before you repainted. Good luck.

BRAKE FLUID-soak the figures overnight in a jar or pan. Most of the paint will flake off on its own, take a toothbrush to the rest…wash the figures in soap and water, let dry, spray with primer. Now you have new figures. I have been doing this for 30 years, works everytime. Note: It will not work on acrylics, only enamels.

Pinesol is another option – a little stronger than Simple Green.

Hugh

I always use proper paint stripper (Nitromors in the UK). It is nasty stuff but it will work although it may take a day or two. Do it in a sealable container, an old margarine tub or something like that.

Make sure you keep this well away from the wifes nose, the kids eyes and the pets.

Try this – link

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Martin Stephenson
The Waving Flag | Twitter | eBay

For your case (a lot of figures w/enamel, 20mm) I second brake fluid soak.

I use different methods for different sizes/paints/how much of hurry I am in.

I have tried the above methods and the Best I have found here in the US is a stripper called JASCO.

As a fella mentioned above, this stuff is also nasty stuff and the fumes are strong BUT it will take off most if not all of ANY paint.

I have a glass jelly jar I soak my miniatures over night but it works great, use a tooth brush in the hard to reach areas and you can re-use it over and over. I bought mine from Walmart and have had the same for over a year, just cap it off when you done with it.

Hope that helps

Warlord

I'm a big fan of PineSol

works great and doesn't small too bad

Dettol … simple – no effort – took off thick layers of enamel paint overnight …

These cleaned up old flats look brand new …

Cleaned with Dettol (I am sure non name brands work just as well provided these have the same active agents in them … Co-op cheapy doesn't, but, per Vexillia, it sounds like the Tesco cheapy does – you pays yer money as they say) …

And it's not nasty stuff to have around the house.

I thought they painted up nicely (much better than I could have managed without stripping them)

Phil
Ancients on the Move

Wow! Thanks for the wave of advice!

Am I likely to sustain any damage to the detail on the figures by following these procedures?

No damage expected unless there is a metallurgy problem like lead rot.

Any glued parts will probably detach.

I used Castrol super clean degreaser to good effect with acrylics and green stuff (it went soft). Can't speak to how it works for enamels though….
It is a less toxic option, although that makes me suspect it doesn't have the gumption to take on enamels.

If you're considering Pinesol, simplegreen or Castrol super clean, I'd suggest Purple Power instead. AFAIK it's the same as super clean, but cheaper and is definitely stronger than pinesol or simple green. I've stripped hundreds of old school lead figs with it to good effect.

With lead figures the key is to -if-possible- stick to a toothbrush instead of a stiff plastic or wire brush. There may still be a bit of faint surface scratching, but likely nothing that would show up under a future paint job.

If Purple Power won't shift the enamel paints, then you have to resort to stronger stuff. I use MEK as my last-resort, it takes almost everything off It's dead nasty, but it works fast. It will take even take the enamel off of most die-cast cars! Rinse the fig right after it comes out of the MEK and you can still use the tooth brush if you're worried about marring the figures.

Extended exposure to MEK will eventually melt the toothbrush and MEK should never be used on plastic or vinyl models.

You can find Purple Power at most any auto parts chain and MEK at your local home repair store. I buy MEK in medium sized tins at Menards.

Ditto on Pinesol. It is safe, can be used to clean up around the house, and purchase can come out of the household budget, not the wargame budget. I soak over night, then brush with stiff toothbrush (either an old one or bought for the purpose, not one in current use) , If this is not working then go to one of the more caustic suggestions. I have not had to do so yet.

Lacquer Thinner, takes everything off. For metal figs only, and you will need a glass or metal container.

Wow! Thanks for the wave of advice!
Am I likely to sustain any damage to the detail on the figures by following these procedures?

No, Jasco will even take off any super glue on the miniatures.

Warlord

Straight Ammonia. Dump the figures into a quart jar and fill it up with ammonia. Nothing cheaper or more effective. It doesn't happen overnight, though. I usually keep the bottle sealed for a couple of weeks. Dump the ammonia and removed paint outside, in fact, do all of this outside. Rinse under the tap and apply a soft toothbrush to remove any clinging flakes. You can do this last part inside….

I have used DOT III brake fluid (any brand) for several years with much success. It works on both enamel and acrylic paint, and won't damage any glue joints.

I use a 5-quart ice cream bucket with a snap on lid, though any inexpensive soft plastic container with a tight-fitting lid will do.

I put the minis in and then pour enough brake fluid over them to cover. Put on the lid and leave for 48 hours. I then use a large plastic dishwashing tub filled with warm water and dish washing soap to clean the paint off of the minis. Use yellow dishwashing gloves. I use my kid's old toothbrushes to remove whatever paint is still on them. Afterward, rinse in fresh water and you should be good to go.

Goof-off is my weapon of choice, have a couple of battalions to do, only thing I've found it doesn't touch is Superglue, soaked a 15mm Napoleonic cannon and cleaned everything off and left it intact (wheels, barrel, and carriage).

Also worth trying Biostrip 20. It works brilliantly on plastic, resin and metal and isn't as horrible on your hands/nose/eyes as Nitromors (my previous 'go to' stripping choice).

If you need to remove super glue, or any similar sot of glue, place the mini(s) in the freezer for 24-48 hours.

Freezing breaks up the molecular structure of the glue and causes the bond to break. Sometimes you might have to pull slightly on it, but it will give way and then you can use the edge of a hobby knife to remove any cement that is in a crevice, joint, etc, quite easily.

I learned this by experience when I left a case on minis out in my shed one winter. When I took them out they literally started to fall apart. Sigh.

Used to use Nitromors until I discovered Dettol Dettol much better.

easy off oven cleaner will work.

Another vote for Dettol, but uncertain how it works with enamels. In another thread/blog (can't remember) I read what seemed to be the ultimate in quick time paint removal – someone had befriended a dentist with a dental sandblasting set up. Not being a dentisit I had no idead whether they have such a thing or what they might use sandblasting for, but there you go, if all else fails, here is the Plan Z.

Cheers

Yup, non-toxic easy off spray oven cleaner and a toothbrush. i have used it on plastic, lead and resin. might take a few applications if the paint is thick but it works.

@ Take me back to Elba … Dettol is fine with enamels (that's what was on those flats)

@ huevens011 … no, no damage to detail (if you get a stubborn bit in an undercut, loosen with a toothpick/cocktail stick … there's then a slight risk you might make a scratch I guess)

Phil

Yes, for enamels either brake fluid or oven cleaner will work just fine. Speaking of acrylics, I've used Simple Green many times with no problems. Just soak and scrub with an old toothbrush.

Good to know Yesthatphil – seems good old Dettol does everything! (Even converts standard minis into flats ;) … Having made such a cheap joke about flats I have to say your paint work is impressive – as is your blog. Thanks for your post.

Helps to wear rubber gloves as well.

What is an equivielent to dettol in Europe?

If they are metal, and you want to strip them bare, any commercial paint stripper will do.

Thanks for all the help. About how long does the process of stripping off the paint usually last?

Yesthatphil – Just so I know, which Dettol product do you use?

I always thought there was just one but there seems to several. Of course they could all be the same in different packaging!

link

I'd lke to find an effective alternative to the paint stripper I use at the moment as its pretty nasty stuff.

Oh an someone earlier in this thread said to use a margarine tub with paint stripper, be careful the paint stripper I use (B&Q own label) will melt through plastic tubs very quickly.

I ve used the Dettol disinfectant cleaner with good results.
Regards

Thanks for all the help. About how long does the process of stripping off the paint usually last?

Re read the above posts and I think they pretty much answered that question. Should read more attentively the first time, I guess.