"Brushes and Brush Care" Topic
13 Posts
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Cheomesh | 23 Sep 2014 7:23 p.m. PST |
Question for the crowed! It's come time again for me to replace brushes, as my usual go-to has passed on. I've had luck using the "Loew-Cornell" brand "4000-3/0" brushes – or at least, that is what I've been using since I've gotten back to the hobby! I managed to find a place online that sells them for $2.50 USD a brush, which is like half of what Michael's sells them for – and is much more available as I'm rarely able to make it down to Michael's! But now that they're on their way, I'm wondering if it is time to step the brush side of the hobby up. I work pretty much exclusively in 15mm – a size which the 3/0 "Round" type has dealt with pretty well. I'm not great, though, so maybe there's another size you guys have found suitable for 15mm? Also, what are good brands? What should I look for in a quality miniatures painting brush? For terrain I've got plenty of "slop brushes", but always needing more for figs. Also, what are all the brush types really about? If my memory serves, last I've bought brushes "Round" and "Spotter" seem to do the trick, though they look a bit different with the same "3/0" association. Also, other than rinsing brushes out each time and storing them point up, how can I take better care? Even when I rinse and pat dry, I typically end up with some fraying (which rapidly renders the brush useless at this scale!) and the parts closest to the ferrule always harden up. Typically before I call it quits, I'm dealing with a 1mm flexible tip and the rest pretty solid. Lastly, what's the life expectancy of a brush, really? Thanks! M. |
Bunkermeister | 23 Sep 2014 9:30 p.m. PST |
I clean my brushes by swishing around in a bottle of thinner labeled "1" I brush the brush against the sides of the bottle and get it reasonably clean. Then I wipe it off with Kleenex. I then do the same with bottle "2" which is also paint thinner. I have two sets one for acrylics, one for enamels and another one for metallics. About once a year I take actual paint remover and clean all my brushes at once. I store them point up in an old 2X4 with holes drilled in it to hold the brush handles. I have a few brushes that are decades old. Most don't last that long, but certainly a few years for a quality brush. I also will trim mine with a small scissors to remove the wild hair. Mike Bunkermeister Creek Bunker Talk blog |
getback | 24 Sep 2014 2:15 a.m. PST |
IMO the best brushes are Windsor and Newton Series 7 – they are expensive but keep a point forever. Totally transformed my painting quality when I moved over to them. For cleaning. If you use acrylics rinse in clean water. Then dip into hair conditioner. (I have one of those little bottles from a hotel room – lifetime supply). It conditions the bristles and loosens any stubborn paint. Rinse before use. They should last for years. And I also store point up in the holes in my paint station. |
dBerczerk | 24 Sep 2014 5:10 a.m. PST |
Sorry to high-jack the thread, but….. I have often wondered -- is there any use for old brush handles after the brush is completely blown away? I mean, after you've even used the frayed brush for dry-brushing, and now it's even too far gone to be effective in that role. I have several old brushes too far gone for dry-brushing. I use one as a dusting brush to gently clean off excess static grass from based figures once the glue has dried. Beyond that, can't think of any other use for the spent handles. They're too smooth and regular to cut up into lengths for rail fencing or frontier stockades. |
Elenderil | 24 Sep 2014 6:17 a.m. PST |
I have used old paint brush handles as paint stirrers I have one a glues a pin to the end of as a tool, there are lots of possibilities. I saw one review which suggested that storing brushes point down helps stop paint settling into the ferrule end and extends their life. Mind you it was for a pot with a spring type arrangement strung like a handle between two posts to hold the brushes so it could just have been hype. I tend to buy the best sable brushes I can afford. Firstly the tip doesn't develop the curl you get with acrylic brushes, secondly they do seem to hold a point better. I found a site for rosemary and co a UK based retailer in Keighley that is reasonable in price and has good illustrations of the different brush types and their pro's and cons. The link is rosemaryandco.com That might help you. |
davbenbak | 24 Sep 2014 8:14 a.m. PST |
Windsor Newton and Floquil sable brushes are a great investment if you are willing to go to the extra effort. Lasted well over a decade of serious abuse. I have found that the cheap synthetic brushes from Michaels work just fine if you are using acrylics. Swish in water is generally all you need, supposing that you are only using the very tip of the brush. I also give them a good going over under hot running water to loosen build up over time. The only use I have for old brush handles is to stir up aging bottles of enamel paint. |
Dave Crowell | 24 Sep 2014 8:52 a.m. PST |
I use The Masters brush cleaning soap. It comes in a small cake in a plastic tub. Just swishing and rinsing your brushes in water is not enough if you want long life. You need to use soap to properly clean down to the ferrule. Murphy's Oil Soap also works very well for this. Also do not put your brushes away point up until they are thoroughly dry. Moisture running down the bristles and into the ferrule will rot the bristles and the handle. Painting miniatures is rough on brushes, dry brushing even more so. Try using flats or brights to dry rush with. Also be sure not to dip your brushes into paint up to the ferrule. I am an artist/painter in my day job. Brush care is essential. Especially when you consider what good artist quality brushes can cost. I have one brush that I paid over $100 USD for. Worth every penny, it is my go to brush for watercolours. Handmade, size 16 round. Used only for watercolours. I absolutely love my Rosemary&Co watercolour brushes. Their oil and acrylic brushes are similar quality. They are my "cold dead hand" brushes and never touch miniatures. |
Cheomesh | 24 Sep 2014 8:57 a.m. PST |
Bunker: I remember years back being told not to use thinner for some reason or another, so I'd abandoned the practice. The two stage method sounds useful though, so I'll add thinners to my next supply order. Thanks! Getback: Winsor and Newton – that's the brand! I recall having them suggested years back but I couldn't remember the name last night when posting. I've found them up on Amazon for not an unreasonable price each. What sizes have found the most use for you in 15mm (or in general)? For hair conditioner, does it do better than "brush cleaners" like this? link So just let it dry in the bristles and wash it out on the next go? I'll see if I can drill holes in a block of wood for storage – right now I use a cup. Thanks! M. EDIT: New posts – will follow up on the advice. About not getting paint up the ferrule, that's advice I've always followed but I have noticed capillary action seems to "suck" paint up there anyways. Never sure if I got them all out. Should I store them on their side while they dry? Or should I hang some clips so they can dry point down but suspended by the handle? |
Sgt Slag | 24 Sep 2014 9:19 a.m. PST |
I use Pink Brush Soap, from Michael's, to clean my brushes, before I store them. I will have to start hanging them bristles down to dry -- mine do rot out putting them away tip up… Thanks. Cheers! |
Who asked this joker | 24 Sep 2014 11:56 a.m. PST |
I use "The Artist's Loft" Brushes. I think they are camel hair. You can buy them at Michael's for about $6 USD for 5 brushes. Something like 0 00 000 00000 and 10/0. Like Sgt Slag I use "Pink Soap." I store them tip up but will have to try tip down hanging or capped with the plastic straw. I just started with the pink soap so I can't tell you how effective it is yet. |
Fat Wally | 24 Sep 2014 1:08 p.m. PST |
"Lastly, what's the life expectancy of a brush, really?" I had a size 3 Windsor and Newton Series 7 which I used almost daily for nine years. [I average maybe 2,000 – 4,000 15mm figures per year.] I use Series 7's and Rosemary and Co. brushes. I've not had a Series 7 last longer than 18 months recently but they are worth every penny. The Masters Brush Cleaner and Restorer is a must. |
getback | 25 Sep 2014 8:56 a.m. PST |
I use W&N size 0 for most painting. It gives a perfect point. Never feel the need to go smaller. The 00 W&N's I have had do not improve my painting over the 0. I heard about the conditioner to restore before I knew about brush soap so just stuck with it. Never had a problem with rotting. My painting area is in a dry, low humidity area and doesn't get extremes of temperature. |
Fizzypickles | 25 Sep 2014 5:09 p.m. PST |
Also, what are good brands? What should I look for in a quality miniatures painting brush? The most obvious characteristics for a good brush is it's ability to hold a fine point and hold sufficient paint. It can be argued but on the whole most painters would agree that a brush made from Kolinsky Sable is excellent for both. For many years W&N Series 7 was considered the best brush out there although my own experience tells me that the quality of individual brushes is hit and miss, esp in smaller sizes. My preferred Brand is Raphael, 8404, 8408 & 8402 being my goto brush for nearly all detail work. I work pretty much exclusively in 15mm – a size which the 3/0 "Round" type has dealt with pretty well. I'm not great, though, so maybe there's another size you guys have found suitable for 15mm? I work almost exclusively in 28mm and all of my goto brushes are size '0' Raphaels which would correspond to a size '1' or even '2' in most other brands. Use the largest brush you can is my philosophy. It holds more paint and as a result will last longer if looked after. Also, what are all the brush types really about? If my memory serves, last I've bought brushes "Round" and "Spotter" seem to do the trick, though they look a bit different with the same "3/0" association. Rounds are obviously named. A spotter is a much shorter bristled version of a round brush for intricate work where one needs greater control over where the brush tip goes. Some rounds are described as 'Designer' which are generally rounds with a slimmer belly and longer bristle. I also use 'Filberts' a sort of cross between a round and a flat 'bright'. I use these when painting larger areas such as horses. As for care and cleaning, any of the brush soaps previously mentioned or a little shampoo/conditioner combo. Another great product for revitalising old brushes is something called 'Turpenoid Natural' (not to be confused with turps or turpentine substitute) This stuff smells like oranges, cleans any old paint stuck in the bristles away and conditions your brush beautifully. It also has one other very unique quality: If you mix a small drop of it into oil paint, it renders it water soluble. |
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