"20MM 1/72nd buildings" Topic

I'm working on 20mm-1/72nd (also some HO)scale buildings, some are resin and have bases, some are plastic, and no base, I am wanting to make bases for them, they range from the new Airfix (which are actually resin I think) to Italeri, to old Airfix and some HO. I know someone makes bases for the Airfix stuff .. but I want make my own and am just looking for ideas, like do I add a bit of yard? Some stone wall, more extensive with a tree or two? Who else has worked on this and can you share ideas or examples??

Hi,

You could use some ideas from the Amera bases for Airfix/Hornby ones…

amera.co.uk/product.php?range=a

And from Carlos (Portuguese guy) in resin

cprbattlezone.blogspot.pt

And if do a google search on some models, you will find some interesting concepts

A+

Faustnik

some of Carlos's bases are on the to buy list when I retire later this year, they look very nice

I raise my plastic buildings on mdf and either add card or use ply, then add bits, trees etc and flock to edges, also model railway bits etc

The bases from CPR are superb, great value for money too. He also produces 'pavement' sections, damaged and undamaged for the more urban areas……….

I'm currently working on 4 of the Airfix ruins. I'm no expert model maker and my efforts look awful compared to some of the works of art you see online. However I'll try to post pictures once they are done.

I've based the buildings on 3mm MDF and added paving and floors from embossed plastic card. I've used commercial rubble and extra wall sections from The Square and Ironclad Miniatures. I've then added further rubble piles using foam board offcuts.

I covered the foam board with wall filler and pressed various bits into it e.g. broken matchsticks to represent beams, `miscellaneous debris' from Sgts Mess and bits box spares.

I then attempted to PVA glue a mix of railway ballast and cork pieces onto it. This last bit hasn't worked very well. The bits keep falling off as I paint them leaving white marks behind. Maybe I should have mixed the texture into the filler and added an appropriate colour before applying it.

I usually custom design my bases on the scenario I'm putting together at that time. I have to work on a budget so these are some ideas that have worked for me. Like for the Battle of Hardt, I needed a town and church base, took measurements, and tend to make one big piece to avoid lots of seams. Used some wood paneling I had but don't recommend now as it's too thin and tends to warp. Now I'm using ¼'' plywood or MDF with better results. Be creative, for instance on the church base I included a section to include a cemetery. Glue on embossed plastic card for stone or brick effects, but make sure you get the right scale. For street I use either white glue or liquid Bounce from Hot Wire Foam Factory and add fine ballast. Once dry highlight with weathering powders. For ground effects Sculptamold is an excellent product that does not shrink. You can embed a Woodland Scenic tree base and insert the tree when wargaming. Paint the dried Sculptamold or add flocking for dirt or grass effects. If you need lots of rubble, consider buying Linka World molds and fill with Hydrocal. I have one each for brick, stone, and roofing. Smash up and you have all the rubble you will ever need. Tend not to permanently affix my stone or brick walls as I like the flexibility of reusing and can't afford buying new ones all the time; same with the buildings themselves. The pictures are from the Battle of Hardt. Just experiment and have some fun!