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"Gorilla Glue for terrain" Topic


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1,302 hits since 6 Sep 2014
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Winston Smith06 Sep 2014 9:54 p.m. PST

My latest fad for terrain making is Gorilla Glue. Note this NOT Gorilla Super Glue, but plain Gorilla Glue. This is the amber thick glue that comes on squeeze bottles, and foams up on setting.
The object here is to take advantage of it's foaming properties.

I read a few years ago here on TMP about putting a few drops in the corner of a model building and pouring gravel on top of it. This was to form rubble. Basically, that is it.
The key is to control the size of the initial bead, which takes some practice.

My first attempt was some U-shaped sangars on stiff board. Unfortunately the bead was too large and so was the gravel. Still useful but I had to make thinner walled ones.

Much more successful were hedgerows. I had some packs of craft plywood plaques that I cut and beveled to look like elongated hexagons. I put a bead along the length and poured fine aquarium gravel on top. This is a great project to end the night with btw. Pour the gravel on and go to bed. Let the foam finish expanding and it entraps the gravel.
The next day dig out the plaques. I usually add a second layer on top of the first. Then, using hot melt glue, jam clump foliage on top of the wall. Paint and flock the plaque to taste. You then have many long geomorphic plaques you can join as the battle setup requires. Add gaps on the middle for … gaps or gates.

I made stone walls in a similar fashion using tongue depressors as the base and cheapest clay cat litter for the stone. (Is it really necessary to say "unused"? grin). These I spray painted with cheap WalMart flat black and then gray. I flocked the edges.

My latest thing is to make river sections from 12" x 4" Masonite plaques. First paint the inner 3" with dark blue craft paint, smearing with green. When dry paint with several coats of Future floor wax. Really, just paint whatever color you think the river should be.
Then, and this is the tricky part , lay down beads of Gorilla Glue, smearing with the nozzle, to make the banks. Spread a little fine gravel on top but really heap on fine sand or model railroad ballast. Paint and flock when dry.
Obviously it does fine on curved sections and intersections.

The key here is to have a large flat surface you are not afraid to stain and at the same time be able to pour back excess gravel or sand. I find 24 or 30 pack beer or soda cartons ideal. (They also make great masking for spray painting…)
You really want to pour the sand , gravel or kitty litter high so the stuff will be entrapped and the set urethane foam adhesive will not show through.

Btw this glue is very strong but due to its expanding not very good for model making. It made a mess when I tried to glue a resin deck to a pirate ship.

Winston Smith06 Sep 2014 10:06 p.m. PST

My next project will be road sections on the same Masonite sections. This time I will smear white glue down first and pour fine sand on it. Spray brown. After dry, do them just as the river sections, with a lot of drybrushing and flocking.
The rivers and road sections are to expand a collection purchased several years ago but no longer available. We use them all the time and always feel the need for "missing" pieces.

I must emphasize that controlling the size of the Gorilla Glue bead is essential. Since you will be burying it for several hours, mental notes are important. grin

War Panda06 Sep 2014 10:06 p.m. PST

Hmmm interesting…I've never tried it. I'm a white glue guy :) but I'll have to try it out

Winston Smith06 Sep 2014 10:09 p.m. PST

Be careful making fords until you are sure you can control the bead. Or use white glue.

ordinarybass07 Sep 2014 8:11 a.m. PST

Very interesting. I tried Gorilla Glue a while back and got sick of it. I just couldn't get used to the expansion and didn't have a way to clamp the small things I was using it for.

For terrain I now use premixed cement patch. It's like a glue, a plaster and a texture all in on, It dries pretty fast and is as good for adding texture as it is for building up mounds or gluing terrain together.

PatrickWR07 Sep 2014 8:18 a.m. PST

Good to hear that there is some use for Gorilla Glue. I bought a bottle and was aghast when it did that foaming thing. I'll try to take advantage of it in the way you described.

John the OFM07 Sep 2014 8:45 a.m. PST

You have to think of the expansion as a feature, and not a bug. grin

Do NOT use it to glue small things. I would never try to glue a rider to a horse, or a horse to a base. Let alone a sword to a hand. There is far better stuff for that.

Because is is not water based, however, it will not warp any balsa or basswood, it you are using them for a substrate. White glue being water based, will soak into the wood and shrink as it dries.

steamingdave4707 Sep 2014 8:46 a.m. PST

Is the gorilla glue sold in UK different? Mine doesn't foam, it's like a slightly off colour white glue. It sticks brilliantly- I have even used it for repairing mortar pointing on the steps leading down to my garden and it's survived two winters so far.

John the OFM07 Sep 2014 9:54 a.m. PST

In the US, there is Gorilla Glue (which is amber and in a squeeze bottle), Gorilla super Glue, which is very good super glue, and Gorilla Glue 5 minute epoxy.

I am only talking about the amber foaming urethane Gorilla Glue.
Neither Winston nor I can be held responsible for any confusion.grin

Cacique Caribe07 Sep 2014 12:27 p.m. PST

Sprinkle tiny bricks and bits on the surface, once the soufflé starts to rise:

TMP link

Dan

John the OFM07 Sep 2014 1:24 p.m. PST

I think that's the original article I saw. 7 years ago? Wow.

Cacique Caribe07 Sep 2014 3:15 p.m. PST

There's a lot of wisdom to be found in "old" threads!

Dan

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