bpmasher | 21 Aug 2014 6:18 a.m. PST |
Ordered my first miniatures (20mm + paints, brushes) today and waiting for the Overlord book. Whilst waiting, I'd like to ask some noob questions about the game and painting. In the game, can I split squads into fireteams of say, a machinegun + loader or a scout team of a couple of men? Something like a machinegun for a firebase, a couple of guys closing into contact and another team in reserve or such. How well would the game run with just about 12 or so men per side? Is it good for skirimish sized games? About painting, am I good to go with just my matte black primer spray and select colors for my infantry? Should I bother with washes or trying to drybrush my minis (how much difference in the finished product)? I'm still missing some basic paints like black, white, flesh and gunmetal but I think I'll order them next. |
bpmasher | 21 Aug 2014 6:22 a.m. PST |
Ah one more thing, should I buy basic skintone or flat flesh vallejo color for skin? |
Bede19025 | 21 Aug 2014 6:26 a.m. PST |
n the game, can I split squads into fireteams of say, a machinegun + loader or a scout team of a couple of men? Something like a machinegun for a firebase, a couple of guys closing into contact and another team in reserve or such. Not generally. But some armies are organized this way anyway. For example, German sections are actually two units. A Rifle team and LMG team. But you can't combine or split them. British are an exception. They can start the game as one unit but later split into a Rifle team and a Bren Team. They can't recombine after that though. How well would the game run with just about 12 or so men per side? Is it good for skirimish sized games? No, it's not that small. A German section (the two game units) is 8 men, for example. You'll need much more than 12 men per side. |
Extra Crispy | 21 Aug 2014 6:36 a.m. PST |
For 12 men per side try Nuts! from Two Hour Wargames. My favorite skirmish system for WW2 |
No longer can support TMP | 21 Aug 2014 6:53 a.m. PST |
Washing and drybrushing are good to make the details on the figures pop. Not strictly necessary but a good idea and relatively easy to do. If you don't have a commercial wash like the old Devlan Mud, you can make it yourself. There's all kinds of "recipies" out there, but the simplest one is a bit of paint, a bit of water or thinner, and a bit of dish detergent. On my figures, for the dry brushing, I didn't so much dry brush as more of a repaint of the high areas (knees, elbows, nose, cheeks, chin, shoulders, etc) with the original colour. As my brush ran out of paint, I did do some drybrushing in other areas. Example of 28mm Warlord Russian plastic figure:
More at my blog: link |
bpmasher | 21 Aug 2014 7:19 a.m. PST |
Good detail on the minis, I should practice drybrushing and washing for sure. I'll have to get more minis too (and a couple of vehicles), though it will take a while. Collecting and painting will be a hobby in itself. About terrain, I was thinking of buying some Woodland Scenics stuff for making really good terrain, but I'm open to other suggestions too. I was thinking of using clump foliage to make bocage and some of the trees to add detail to the landscape. My first games will probably be set in Normandy during and after the invasion. |
nazrat | 21 Aug 2014 7:24 a.m. PST |
Battlegroup does not allow you to break squads up, although some forces, such as the Germans come as two sections-- a rifle section of five men and an LMG section of three. Other focus like the Soviets are built as eight man squads with the DP LMG as a member. Personally I don't think BGO would run well at all with just twelve men. It is platoon and up for the most fun. One question-- did you buy the mini rulebook? The BGO book does NOT have the rules for the game in it, only theater overview, army lists, special rules, and scenarios. The actual game rules are in both the Kursk book and the mini version. |
Bede19025 | 21 Aug 2014 7:27 a.m. PST |
Battlegroup does not allow you to break squads up, British sections can break down into Rifle unit and Bren unit. |
bpmasher | 21 Aug 2014 7:30 a.m. PST |
Yeah I bought the mini rulebook and BGO bundle. |
PiersBrand | 21 Aug 2014 7:31 a.m. PST |
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bpmasher | 21 Aug 2014 7:37 a.m. PST |
I got Battlefield miniatures american paratroopers, about 15 figures total. I need about 40 for a platoon sized force, right? I could buy packs of plastic soldiers but I like the detail on metal miniatures. |
PiersBrand | 21 Aug 2014 8:27 a.m. PST |
Battlefield/Blitz are great… Check out the Elhiem Figures range of US Paras too. |
pzivh43 | 21 Aug 2014 9:53 a.m. PST |
BGK and its brethren is a great rules set, IMO. Glad to see another member join the fold. Which side of the pond are you on?? |
bpmasher | 21 Aug 2014 10:25 a.m. PST |
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Bob Runnicles | 21 Aug 2014 10:40 a.m. PST |
For what it's worth, the detail on plastic figures now is generally right up there with metals (from the better manufacturers, anyway) and from a cost and weight perspective it's well worth considering. For example Siggian's painted figures above are plastic and you seemed to like the detail on them. Just a thought! |
GROSSMAN | 21 Aug 2014 1:30 p.m. PST |
The dip is a must for WW II figures. I recommend a small can of MINWAX Tudor Brown from Lowes, around $4 USD as opposed to the Army painter $8 USD wash. This covers all manor of painting sins as well as picks up all the creases in the figure and solves the face painting issue. I also recommend the dry brush after the wash to pick up the highlights. Here are some Germans I did with a dip and dry brush. link |
bpmasher | 22 Aug 2014 2:21 a.m. PST |
I might go for plastic minis but I haven't found anything other than Plastic Soldier Companys stuff. I'm pretty set on wanting US paras vs. Germans in Normandy for my first games. There are other manufacturers like Italeri and Airfix that have done paratroopers but I want something that's less of a playground mini and meant for wargaming. I've already bought 20mm metal minis from Elhiem and Battlefield minis. Buying metal minis in small packs allows me to customize the weapons I have available but is more costly. I chose 20mm because of Milicast and MMS vehicles that look absolutely awesome. About the wash, I could buy Minwax stuff but the shipping might be a bit costly. Army painter I haven't checked out yet but I might go for that if I find an online store in the UK for example. How about Minwax polyshades antique walnut? Someone recommended it at another forum talking about washes. |
GROSSMAN | 22 Aug 2014 5:18 a.m. PST |
The antique walnut is a little dark for my taste. If you want me to send you a can I will be happy to do so at cost. One little can has done over 700 28mm figures and a few tanks, so it will be all you ever need. My email is markcramer74@yahoo.com |
parrskool | 23 Aug 2014 4:33 a.m. PST |
Apropos BG: Overlord……. being of an advanced age, I find the small print in the mini rule book provided v.difficult to read. Anyone else had that problem ? (I don't especially want the original Kursk rules as the Eastern front is not my thing) |
nazrat | 23 Aug 2014 2:30 p.m. PST |
BP-- Check out FAA's U.S. Paras as well. They are excellent (metal) sculpts and match up with Elheim's perfectly. |
bpmasher | 27 Aug 2014 7:49 a.m. PST |
FAA carries a lot of cool stuff. I'm already considering British commandos in addition to US paras. I might pick up their Germans first though. |