"War Times Journal Russo Japanese War ships 1/2400" Topic
18 Posts
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foxbat | 04 Aug 2014 5:19 a.m. PST |
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foxbat | 04 Aug 2014 5:26 a.m. PST |
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foxbat | 04 Aug 2014 5:32 a.m. PST |
Allow me to say I amastounded by the quality of the miniatures, detail is just incredible at this scale (bear in mind what you see on the screen here is way bigger than the actual miniatures). This was a try, and I guess it was successful. I'm sold! Now, since I have seen the manufacturer post here a few times, if I mayI have a question and a request for help. The only problem was that there was no identification whatsoever when I got the miniatures :
I managed to research my way out of it for the big ships, but I am at a loss for the destroyers. So, I'd like to know which is which. I bought a set of two units for destroyers #1, #2, #3, #4, #5. Here are the primed miniatures, can someone please tell me which is which?
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ColCampbell | 04 Aug 2014 7:31 a.m. PST |
This link has a few pictures link which may help you some. In your illustration, ships A-D look like the same class, with a 1-2-1 stack arrangement, while ship E only has a 2-1 stack arrangement. It is possible that the first four are Buinyi class. link While ship E is a British built Sokol class ship which was patterned after the RN's Havok class torpedo boat destroyers link . Your fleets are very well painted. Did you make your own masts or did those come with the ships? Jim |
Mollinary | 04 Aug 2014 8:08 a.m. PST |
Those are amazing. I have never seen a Pobieda or Tsarevitch model which I thought captured the look of the period photogarphs. Thes do so in spades. Mollinary |
Hayseeds | 04 Aug 2014 8:16 a.m. PST |
Very nice, very interesting. Thanks for sharing. |
Allen57 | 04 Aug 2014 8:43 a.m. PST |
Foxbat, I posted a message in the Wartimes Journal Yahoo group link asking if someone could pop over here and help with your ID problems. Hopefully they will get back to you. Al |
Mollinary | 05 Aug 2014 3:37 a.m. PST |
Hi fb, I have just been along to the WTJ site and had a look at the destroyers in their store. At the top of that page there is a link to silhouettes for all their nine destroyer types to try and help with exactly your problem. Does it not help? Mollinary |
foxbat | 05 Aug 2014 4:58 a.m. PST |
Thanks a lot, mollinary and Allen57, that solves it nicely, and I feel quite kind of confused to have missed such an obvious link. With this help, it looks like E = #1 (Marakumo), D = #2b (Shirakumo), C = #2a(Akatsuki), B = #3 (Puliki) and A = #4 (Boikii). ColCampbell, the masts are kitbashed with some Evergreen 0.20" rod and some tiny plastic beads :
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Zen Ghost | 01 Sep 2014 2:20 p.m. PST |
Foxbat, I got a redirect from my post on painting 1/2400 pre-dreads. Do you have any information on painting your minis? They look terrific and would like learn your technique. -ZG |
foxbat | 06 Sep 2014 8:29 a.m. PST |
Hi, thanks for the kind words. Apologies for my lateness to answer, as I have had a very busy week. Regarding your question, I have just used plain painting, washing and drybrushing on my ships. - Prime your minis. I prefer white spray primer, which allows the wash to show better . - For painting, I started with the decks, and did the upperworks and hull afterwards. I used a #2 brush mostly (some details with a #0). That is the hardest part, as you need not to overlap too much. I'm a fairly older guy as well, still steady hands, but eyesight not so good… using good lighting and mere reading glasses goes along way for me. I monted my ships on nails heads before priming, that helps handling a lot. - For the wash, I don't use ink, but some spray pistol paint (I went with some sepia IIRC). I make a wash with 1/3 paint, 1/3 water and 1/3 Future Wax (this has a different name now in the States, but since i live in Europe, I don't know it). Apply it all over the mini. Let it dry for at least 12 hours to be sure. - DRybrush very lightly! TBH, I find my own drybrushing somewhat overdone, I still need to work on it. Just use a lighter shade of your base tone, and go lightly on the salient parts. Best of lucks with your ships, and please post pics of your finished work. |
Sailor Steve | 20 Sep 2014 10:51 p.m. PST |
Beautiful! I recently picked up their 1/2400 Atlanta class cruisers, and they have the offset guns just right. Also built their 'Hoche', and it's amazing how good the detail is in that scale. |
HobbyGuy | 30 Jan 2016 4:03 p.m. PST |
Wow, I happened to see this old article and as I'm thinking of buying a large batch of WTJ ships I'm absolutely terrified of the time it will take to painstakingly analyze each similar ww1 ship, esp. dd and try to figure out what they are! I would never have even thought that would be a problem. This article is old. But does WTJ now mark or place the ships in zip bags or SOME form of ID so you don't spend hours trying to figure it out? I want to buy about 200 ships. This would be a nightmare! Esp. when you're not a ww1 ship expert. WTJ please respond if you see this. I saw their prices went up considerably as well (since I looked last year). Is this because they now offer some way of differentiating the ships for their customers? Every other 1/2400 mfg does. |
Mr Byron | 31 Jan 2016 6:54 p.m. PST |
@CaptHobby, WTJ ships have identifying information on the underside of the ships. It is not the name of the ship, but rather an identifying code. So, for example, my recently acquired model of the Battleship Lepanto has the code number 88106-24 on the underside. The first numbers are for the ship, the last two show the scale ("24" for 1/2400). The receipt that comes with your shipment (printed on one or more sheets of 8.5 by 11 inch paper) will show all of your ships by name, with the identifying code next to the ship name. The identifying code can also be found on the WTJ website (just place the ships in your "cart" for a moment and you will see the code). As a result, determining which ship is which is not likely to pose a problem. (After painting, of course, you can print the ship's specific name on the underside of the model, or, if you mount them, on the base). I have bought many, many ships from WTJ (mostly pre-dreadnoughts) and am very happy with my purchases. |
HobbyGuy | 02 Feb 2016 10:46 a.m. PST |
@Mr Byron Yes thank you. I actually sent an e-mail over to WTJ and they immediatly replied with the same answer. Breathing easy now… Great news for all. And I think this link from WTJ might help those that have a hard time seeing the small numbers on the DD (which is why I'm told, they put this link up).
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Part time gamer | 14 Feb 2016 5:27 a.m. PST |
Ok a 'wee' bit late commenting here.. Foxbat, "Love the work". Very nicely done. Tell me, have my eyes really 'gone' or did you base these on a clear plastic basing? And I would love to have your steadiness of hands AND 'eyes', just the thought of doing masts of such scale boggles the mind. I have yet to order from WTJ as Seakrieg is 'the' naval game at the local GS, and those that run them generally have 'more' than enough ships. However I have watched WTJ for years and now with there 'Rapid Prototype Plastic', Im more eager than ever to get a few. Has anyone ordered any of the larger, 1800 or even 1500 scale ships? Im really wanting the larger, roughly the 1885-1905 predread period (just personal preference). Granted I will probably fall back to the 18' scale for $$ reason. I will say this.. with the detail Ive seen even in their 3000 scale, I can only imagine how the 1800 scale should be. To any that have done naval for sometime. Do you have a 'rule of thumb' as to L x W basing? i.e., "leave a 1/2 -3/4 in. fore/aft" or is it simply a case of, "ok that looks right". Again great work and the pictures are Very appreciated. I hope you get to enjoy them often. |
foxbat | 03 Mar 2016 4:10 a.m. PST |
Sorry for answering so late, TMP is such a huge forum, and I sometimes miss things. Bases ar clear plastic, which I ordere from Litko. I bought the 3mm thick ones, you can request any size you wish. Ship names are simply printed, a very basicc job. Thanks for the kind words regarding my painting, actually I painted them in averyplain way, washed with a mixture of water, future and sepia ink. I lightened up with some drybrushing. The intent is to take advantadge of the sculpt and structure of the mini to make details pop. The wash takes care of any "overspills" and creates a nice defined bpoundary between colours. It's a fast way to do, the longest bit is waiting for the wash to dry. Best of lucks with your minis, and don't forget to post us some pics! |
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