| codonnell218 | 27 Jul 2014 10:45 a.m. PST |
Hi, Working on my first few units and wanted to show some WIP pics to get feedback on what to do. Figures are victrix and are depicting peninsular 45th, 71st, and 92nd.I am in the process of changing the pants white from grey as I now know that grey was for the 100 days campaign, not peninsula. Thanks [URL=http://s42.photobucket.com/user/codonnell218/media/photo5_zpsf075e014.jpg.html]
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| John the OFM | 27 Jul 2014 10:52 a.m. PST |
Very good work for a first time painter.
My only recommendation would be to tone down the yellow stripe on the Gordon highlanders.
Also, do not get carried away painting eyes. |
| codonnell218 | 27 Jul 2014 11:01 a.m. PST |
I am going to use the army painter strong quickshade on them soon. Anything I should note before I do? |
| bc1745 | 27 Jul 2014 11:09 a.m. PST |
Don't get hung up on the trouser colour either… In the Peninsula units would often have to replace kit and used a local brown cloth, also iirc the fatigue trousers even prior to the 100 days were grey….could be wrong on that point someone will be able to jump in…… |
| Bushy Run Battlefield | 27 Jul 2014 11:17 a.m. PST |
Prime them black with cheap Wal Mart spray paint before you start. That way you can tone the whole look of them down without using a dip. If you use the right paint, like GW foundation colors or Cel Vinyl you will be able to paint right over the black with no problem. It will also provide you with some natural shading. With dry brushing you will be able to make all those folds in the clothing that the sculptor put on those figures work for you. |
| wrgmr1 | 27 Jul 2014 11:41 a.m. PST |
I agree with BRB, if you don't want to do the Dalimore method of layering, then dry brushing will do the trick.
I use a dark red, Like Americana Napa red then layer with a bright red. You could dry brush instead.
Same for your white, try a dry brush over the grey. The flesh looks a tad yellow to me but sometimes the camera picks up color where it shouldn't.
I would do a light wash of medium brown on the faces and hands. Nice work!!! |
| codonnell218 | 27 Jul 2014 11:46 a.m. PST |
I feel like a rookie, which I guess I am, but what is drybrushing and washing? |
| Zargon | 27 Jul 2014 11:46 a.m. PST |
You want our advice? Heck we should be asking you. As a first times your doing fine, a soft wash will gather and define things further other than that great, you should feel satisfied as these once based (you'll be surprised as to how basing can complete it all)
Well done. Cheers and happy gaming. |
| Littlearmies | 27 Jul 2014 11:48 a.m. PST |
Well, I paint over a white undercoat, and use brighter colours than the wanted final result in the knowledge that the AP will darken everything. It works for me, and I find it is easier to see the detail. I'd brush on the AP, and that way you can control how much goes on each area. Some people use the AP in specific areas, and the GW washes on the flesh. I think they are a great start for a first timer. |
| Widowson | 27 Jul 2014 12:19 p.m. PST |
Washing – go over base painted areas with a darker, watered-down paint, or ink. The dark will settle in the creases and edges of belts, etc. Dry brushing – wipe the brush on your pallet until most of the paint is gone, then lightly go over the highlight areas to "lighten" them. |
| Fizzypickles | 27 Jul 2014 12:27 p.m. PST |
First off, anyone that can paint thin white lines, buttons and dot their eyes can paint pretty much anything. Well done! One piece of advice, never, ever, ask Napoleonic gamers/painters for advice on uniforms lol. Actually, some of the guys here know some of the most obscure details imaginable. Drybrushing is a method used to pick out the extreme high points of a cast and therefore highlight it. As the name suggests is is done by loading a large flat brush with paint and then dragging most of the paint off on tissue or rag. The brush is then dragged over the figure so that very slight amounts of paint are left on the raised areas. Washing (or dipping) is a method whereby a thin solution of colour is added to the figure so that it collects in all the creases and creates a shade or shadow. Google and Youtube are your friend for such techniques  |
| Cerdic | 27 Jul 2014 1:01 p.m. PST |
I've not used it myself, but I believe the army painter quickshade is a wash. I am a rubbish painter so my method is to paint the colours on without shading or highlighting etc. Then I brush on a brown wash. It is scary the first time you do it – you think you have just ruined your paint job! The wash does make all the difference though! And I agree with the "don't bother with eyes" advice….. |
| JimDuncanUK | 27 Jul 2014 1:09 p.m. PST |
If you intend to game with figures of this type and perhaps need quite a few then there is the 'Four Foot Rule'. That is if you can't see the detail from across the table then don't paint it. Block painting plain colours over a white undercoat followed by a coloured wash is fine. Dry-brushing lighter shades over a black undercoat is also fine. Combine the two styles once you are a bit more comfortable with them. If you are a modeller rather than a gamer then ignore this message. |
| wrgmr1 | 27 Jul 2014 1:12 p.m. PST |
Regarding dry brushing, go to a dollar store and get some cheap $1.00 USD brushes. Dry brushing pretty much destroys a good brush in short order. Best to get a garbage figure and practice your techniques on it.
I use regular acrylic paint for washes, thinned down quite a bit. Or you can get Games Workshop or Vallejo washes. They also make a flesh wash which I find too dark so I thin it down. If you don't like the look of your wash just rinse it under a tap and start over.
The face wash will settle into the eyes and make them dark. I find painting eyes to tedious and time consuming unless it is a command stand or special figure. Your doing a heck of a lot better than I did when I first started painting! |
| Bandolier | 27 Jul 2014 3:49 p.m. PST |
If you want to see what everyone is talking about, spend an evening on YouTube and search for tips on painting miniatures. Lots of tutorials on washing, dry brushing and other tips. YouTube link Nice start there, BTW. |
79thPA  | 27 Jul 2014 7:08 p.m. PST |
I am a big believer in NOT painting eyes on 25s. Other than that nit to pick, I think you are doing a fine job. |
| traveller | 27 Jul 2014 9:33 p.m. PST |
Stop before you have thousands of these little creatures occupying your once happy home. Just kidding. Welcome to the club. I still have my first figures I painted back in the 80's. Didn't have a clue, but kept on going. You find what works for you and learn as you paint each new unit. Enjoy. |
| JezEger | 28 Jul 2014 2:14 a.m. PST |
They look great. Either a brown wash or dip will make them pop. Another vote for not doing eyes. The wash will define the eyes well enough. The vast majority of eyes I see on minis look startled, too big, or just wrong. It can detract from an otherwise good pj.
Now do the other 27 regiments, and then get going on the allies! |
| GeneralRetreat | 28 Jul 2014 2:53 a.m. PST |
they look really good! checkout the vitrix painting guide link |
| codonnell218 | 28 Jul 2014 4:25 a.m. PST |
Thank you all for your kind words of encouragement and advice. I will be sure to share when one of the battalions is done. (Whenever that may be) Thanks |
| Just Katie | 28 Jul 2014 9:56 a.m. PST |
Wow, absolutely gorgeous. If my first attempt comes out 25% as awesome, I will be one happy chick. |
| Lord Hill | 28 Jul 2014 11:11 a.m. PST |
I wish my first attempts had looked half as good. I painted figs for 2 or 3 years wondering why my figures looked rubbish and could never get close to the detail I saw from other painters online. Then I discovered the importance of a brush – it's not the size that matters!Previously I had been buying 0 or 00 or 000 brushes and wondering why I could never get any detail no matter how small the brush was. Then a friend told me to try Daler Rowney brushes and hey presto, 100% improvement (this isn't a plug for that company, I'm sure there are plenty of other quality brush anufacturers). They are more expensive per brush but way cheaper in the long run (they last much much longer).
The key thing is that the brush comes to a pinpoint (no need for 0 size etc) and KEEPS it's point, instead of quickly become more like a toothbrush (as my old brushes used to). I now reckon that figure painting is about 1% "artistic talent". Knowing which kit to use is about 70% and knowing a few neat techniques is the other 29%. Eyesight may come into the equation too, but touch wood I'm good for a few more years! |
| ferg981 | 28 Jul 2014 11:20 a.m. PST |
Firstly Great work and a solid start. I think it's fair to say and everyone here will agree with me that as you paint more and more troops, you will perfect a technique which works for you. I used to undercoat in white, but have since changed to black, because I have found it is much more forgiving. You can miss out some smaller details because the undercoat is black, and it simply looks like shading. I personally don't bother with washes and dry brushing. Quite simply, I just paint a dark shade of one colour, then add in a few highlights with a lighter shade of the same colour. You can see how painting styles change by looking at my blog here link I'm still learning. The most important thing I can tell you is be happy with your figures – what everyone else thinks isn't important F |
