"Help with LBM shield transfers" Topic

So the instructions, and posts on TMP, tell me to remove the clear plastic layer that is on top of the transfer before applying. How on earth do you do that? I try and try and cannot get the layer to separate. I invariably end up with the paper backing separating in the middle such that there's a thin layer of paper left on the transfer and the rest comes off. For the life of me I cannot get the top plastic sheet to come off. What's the trick?

Never had a problem. I use the edge of a craft knife blade to separate the decal film.

15mm was a big problem for me.

They are seriously needlessy complicated in my opinion. I have come to some sort of term with them but fiddly fussy and needlessly so.

Just tried the edge of the blade recommendation and they still separate within the paper layer, not peeling back the film. I wonder if heat, cold, or perhaps a mild solvent would help separate them. If not they will go to the bin and be chalked up as a bad idea.

Perhaps their being a year old is a problem?

I found bending the edge back and using a new x-acto blade I could peel it off. You must have the old style ones. The newer ones are much easier.

Eureka, google has saved the day. Gently scoring the surface with a knife allowed me to get a purchase on the silly plastic layer. :)

I've been wrapping a little piece of scotch tape around my finger and the plastic layer (generally) adheres to the tape when I lift it off.

Production methods changed over the years for LBMS. The first method had the paper come off then the plastic once it was stuck down.

The later and better production method has plastic off first then sticking down and using water to get the paper off.

Maybe you have a mix of the two?

I use a scalpel to cut them out , then peel of the plastic and then treat them as a waterslide.much easir to position them that way. In my experience 28mm size seem easier to handle.I had a myriad of problems with 15mm around 4 years ago

I have used 100's of the things on 10mm figures. It can be tricky if you cut out the shields and then remove the plastic but not impossible using s sharp edge. For best results however I actually lift the plastic on the whole printed sheet and then simply push it back into place. When you then cut out the shields, the already loosened plastic almost falls off. The final result is well worth the effort and give spectacular finishes to the figures. You can see mine at link

Never had a problem. This would be the same people who can't put three part together on a plastic figure no doubt.

White does it say to paint the surface white first? Is that so the colours show up bright? How do you then handle the edges if the shield is not meant to be white? Go back and paint up to the edge of the transfer?

Yes, it's to give a good background to the colours of the transfers. I just finished ~50 15mm Vikings, and yes I went back and painted over the visible white edges with black – and later, I'll do the shield rims with metal.

LBM transfers are very fiddly and fairly tough to work with. They do look nice once they are finished though.

My problem is that it takes off the primer and are rendered useless. This regardless of wich (white) primer I use. Never had that problem in the past. Even priming with Humbrol does not help. No idea what's happening.

I have had the occasional problem but by and large no issues.

Follow the instructions, ie usually white then gloss varnish the shield. I now leave a slight plastic edge around the actual transfer which makes separation easier in my view. With fiddily shields like Spanish I have done as Curlerman suggests.

With domed shields like hoplites I score (lightly) the paper backing so that it conforms more easily to the shield.

There can be a fair bit of painting around the edge to blend in the shield but after the final spray varnish of the figure this is not an issue.

Some of my transfers are several years old and procedure above works well.

Garry

@belgianray. I never lay the decals directly on paint. ALWAYS varnish first I use matt acrylic varnish and it provides a solid base to lay the decal on.

thanks curleman, Ibeat my head as soon as I read your post….
the answer was in front of my nose and it didn't register, thank you, thankyou….

I have no problem making and painting models but I find the extra protective sheet on LBMS transfers to be a constant frustrating factor. If the film wont separate then its a failed transfer.

@belgianray
Even better: use gloss varnish over the white (primer)
That way the transfers slide a lot easier and when you afterwards give the whole another coat of gloss varnish all the edges disappear, making it look like a painted on design.