grommet37 | 13 Jun 2014 1:32 p.m. PST |
I'm sure that I've read several threads before about protecting plants. But since I didn't own plants then, I didn't internalize the wisdom offered at that time. I bought a "small autumn forest set", the first of several near-future purchases to make my buildings look like they're really outdoors. I'll probably be buying some pine trees soon, most likely the ones they have at Michael's for school projects and kids dioramas. I'd swear that people say to spray them with a fixative. What techniques do you use, and what adhesive/protectant do you recommend? How do you base them, specifically: what size base, how many to a base, using what? How do you store these? Favorite brand(s)? DIY? How do you think the FoW 10/15mm stuff scales with 15mm SF? How about the Woodland Scenics stuff? What sizes/heights? Other scale comments? Now that I'm noticing miniature nature, I'm ready for all the advice you can offer, and this time I'm really listening. Who speaks for the trees? Bought this: Small Autumn Wood link Probably next buying something like this: Scene-A-Rama/Woodland Scenics typical pine trees link |
Nick Bowler | 13 Jun 2014 2:39 p.m. PST |
I don't think woodlands scenic are cheaper in the long term. While really nice trees, Woodland Scenic trees are made to look fantastic for static sets. Wargamers move their trees around and otherwise abuse them. I would recommend the battlefront trees, or, even better, buy a pack of trees fron Noch -- they make a durable tree that can be mistreated, thrown in a storage bin, etc. and still look good! |
Borathan | 13 Jun 2014 3:22 p.m. PST |
The best trees for value and durability are the ones that pop up every christmas for rather cheap. Though they are all evergreens, and snow dusted, they aren't really that hard to repurpose with a soak in a bucket and either rebasing them or simply using a bit of wood filler to make the bases look less like snowdrifts before repainting. |
skipper John | 13 Jun 2014 6:41 p.m. PST |
Nick Bowler wrote: trees from Noch. Noch?? Got a full name or a link for that? I need some sturdy trees. |
Dave L | 13 Jun 2014 7:35 p.m. PST |
Start here and then do a search for model railroad shops that carry them: link Be sure to check for the size you need. Probably HO or TT to fit with 15mm. |
Kimber VanRy | 13 Jun 2014 8:58 p.m. PST |
I'm a lifelong WS fan from my earliest experiences as a model railroader some 35 years ago. They may be a bit less durable but I like the look. If I have to replace them after 5-10 years of play, so be it. Check out my basing here: link
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The Bebop | 13 Jun 2014 10:24 p.m. PST |
I like using the woodland scenics armatures with their clump foliage; and a good bit of tacky fabric glue. Saves a little on the pocket book and I think you can get a really nice density that stands up to the demands of the tabletop. I also just use testors dullcote to seal them up nicely. It's the only thing I trust anymore not to funk things up. |
Etranger | 14 Jun 2014 4:07 a.m. PST |
A large tree in 10mm is a slightly smaller one in 15mm and smaller again in 25mm. And for sci-fi, pretty much anything goes! WS trees are very good. They also have bulk packs which makes the cost significantly cheaper. The various model railroad makes are excellent but can be pricy. |
Beneath A Lead Mountain | 14 Jun 2014 5:38 a.m. PST |
My favourite opponent and I use WS stuff. It can be fragile but no more so than our painstakingly painted miniatures. Testors dulcote is also very useful for everything from miniatures to scenery. |
skipper John | 14 Jun 2014 1:52 p.m. PST |
Kimber VanRy, Etranger, and Beneath A Lead Mountain
you sold me. Thanks. I'm just back from Chattanooga's only hobby store with $45. USD worth of "Woodland Scenic" tree Armatures and foliage. Looks like 15 or 16 Armatures in the bag. So, 3 bucks or less a tree
not too bad! And I love putting this kind of stuff together! Woohoo! |
Mehoy Nehoy | 14 Jun 2014 4:28 p.m. PST |
I use railroad-type stuff for making trees. After making the trees I spray them with PVA glue thinned with water. To dull the shine I then spray it with matt varnish. It's worked well so far. I've found the best way to prolong the life of my terrain is to treat it with the same respect a miniature deserves. I've never understood why grown men might throw their terrain round like a bunch of schoolchildren. |
Borathan | 14 Jun 2014 4:45 p.m. PST |
@Ninjasaurus Rex Most of the time it isn't throwing them around, but they get knocked, dropped, banged, and more as they're being used. Moving minis through the stuff tends to have things get bumped, and even moving it to and from the table can have accidents happen where it may get dropped. During a long game there can be things spilled on the table, or someone bumping into the table or even tripping onto it. It isn't an intentional situation, but unlike a lot of the model railroad layouts, wargaming terrain tends to get handled a LOT which is where accidents happen. |
Lion in the Stars | 15 Jun 2014 11:27 a.m. PST |
I'd recommend using a 'tacky' glue, which never really sets up (on purpose). That will give you better durability over something that hardens completely. |
Nick Bowler | 15 Jun 2014 10:55 p.m. PST |
Skipper John -- this is what I use. The club liked them so much they bought 100 for general use by club members. These trees are used for a game, then dumped into a bin. They are still going strong. link |