"How to hide the metel foot base" Topic

Hi, what do people suggest to hide the foot base that metal figures are set upon. I have used filler to then cover with basing materials, however I would like to know what others suggest.

It depends a bit on the style of the cast on base.

If the base is fairly thin, and tapers down, then you can get away with just sand. But then the base is thicker and / or has square edges then you may need to use some filler or putty to build up around the edges about.

thanks for reply – do you use generalfiller or have you found a specific hobby supplier?

I use Selleys polyfilla. Work it up around the base and sometimes over it (some bases are already textured). I just use the edge of a craft knife. I noticed that the Old Glory bases I have been doing recently are really high – kind of good because it brings the models into same height range as Front Rank etc.

I have been using the following basing for 20 years:

Glue fig to base. Carefully spread tub caulking (silicone and or latex type) around the figure covering up to his boots or shoes and around the rest of the base. Put fig in a tray of sand,dirt, rocks, not too big on the rocks. Push mixture into the caulk. Let dry. Paint over the whole base. Watered down black, brown works. Let dry. Dry brush lighter shades. Put grasses, etc. on last.

Thanks all

first thing you can do is use a power sander or just a sheet of sand paper glued to a piece of tile to thin it down to about 1/32 of an inch thick. (you can also use a large steel file) they make footings on minis a lot thicker then they need to be to hold up the mini on a base so they will cast easily.

White glue plus sand model railroad ballast.

I mix sand, white glue, and water and spread this around to even with the mini base. The prime, paint, and detail the base.

Add a bit of "green" as needed to hide egregious bases :)

Silfor tufts works well for this.

Hlaven,
I like your idea. I use for now Delta's "Texture Magic". For some reason this item is very hard to find, maybe it went discontinued, not sure, so now I have to find an alternate. I like the caulk deal.

P.

Any putty or spackle that happens to be on hand will do, applied with a butter knife.

Lake of white glue. Surface tension keeps it on the base unless you go WAY overboard.
Dip in sand. Use mixed and multicolored. No need for drybrushing then. (I do paint base to match main color of sand)
2-4+ layers of different flock material. Woodland Scenics ground foam, tufts, clump foliage, static grass, etc.

Anything that doesn't look quite right gets covered in the flock stage.

By the time you are done, it looks really nice. Each individual step is quick.

I have found the white glue and sand method does a good job. A bit of well placed flock or static grass can disguise any visible panty, sorry, base lines…

I hide it by cutting it off :)
TMP link

I also use white glue and Woodland Scenics model railroad ballast. I used to use spackle/filler as described by others, and also used textured artists gels, but find the glue and sand technique is faster, and gives a better texture for painting and drybrushing.

I use real earth.
And no, so far nothing has grown on my bases.

thick layer of roof tiles glue, cheapest in big pots on base (applied with scalpel)
thinned (not so much for bigger minis)earth: the base is dipped in. I have tiny rock from stuff to strengthen cement in it. More rock or less depends on subject.

Once almost dry, I put some green grass etc. if needed.
Not so much on WW2 as the dark earth is realistic in the countryside and does not look as silly as a portable garden on roads and in buildings.
All in all very cheap, durable. very quick.
Works fine for 10 -15 mm. might have to thin down thick bases in 28mm.

I'm a great fan of lightweight spackling compound. Comes as a white semi-solid paste.

1. Add water and brown paint (Ceramcoat Territorial beige) and mix.

2. You can then be spread around the base with a toothpick or a craft knife.

3. While still wet, drop on model railroad grass and push it down lightly with the side of a knife to push it into the spackle.

4. Allow to dry and knock-off the excess.

Gorilla glue and sand, gorilla glue is more viscous thanregular PVA, so it stays where you put it.

White glue and sand and flock, for me.

I've also found that I've quit caring so much about the lump of metal, anymore. By the time people are looking that closely, flaws in my paint job neatly distract from any unpleasant mound the figure may be standing on.

thosmoss – totally changed my out look – thanks

I often either integrate the cast-on base, or cut it off.