| RFCasting | 18 Apr 2014 6:52 a.m. PST |
Ive been casting for a while now – mainly pendants and bits and pieces for friends, but decided to try my hand at miniatures as one of the guys I RPG with is a decent enough sculptor – however its led to a few other enquiries. Now Ive cast greens about half a dozen times now, no problems and with good results – but I want to know if its possible to cast 3D prints straight from the 3D print? That seems to be what Brigade models are doing for their spaceships on their blog, but it leaves me with a lot of questions
- is it just a case of using Low temp vulcanising silicone, taking the temp down far enough, and then doing everything exactly as I normally would? Or do I need to also use far less pressure – how exactly do I measure the pressure – I've never seen a vulcaniser or jack that shows you the pressure being applied – perhaps newer models exist that do this but Ive never heard of, let alone seen one. Can you just play it by ear and just not crank it up too much and it will be fine? My setup is a 9" vulcaniser and manual top loading spincaster – both designed for jewellery and probably ten years old or more, but working great. Any enlightenment would be much appreciated. |
| Maddaz111 | 18 Apr 2014 8:10 a.m. PST |
Would check with the sheet from the three d master production company… it should suggest at what temperature the material will deform, melt or fail. I No longer take the risk, use a special (trade secret) coating, and use low temperature mould making, from these I cast my master in master metal and produce production moulds from these without any problems. |
| headzombie | 18 Apr 2014 8:17 a.m. PST |
I do it all the time. All of my answers depend on which machine printed the part. The materials used are very different. Some of them work with low-temp silicon and some of them don't. |
| RFCasting | 18 Apr 2014 8:23 a.m. PST |
The pressure question is very important! Do I just bung it in as I normally would, or do I need to use hardly any pressure? Its for a customer who has his model up on Shapeways right now – it would be easiest to get it right off there, but it should be no problem for him to send me the file and I can get it printed elsewhere – any recommendations? |
 Doms Decals  | 18 Apr 2014 8:31 a.m. PST |
I'd be very leary of using a Shapeways print as a master – their detail materials deform in hot water, so I don't fancy their chances under pressure, while the strong and flexible material has a rough surface texture and is extremely porous. |
| headzombie | 18 Apr 2014 8:37 a.m. PST |
Pressure isn't that big a deal. As long as you cut a nice supported cavity for the part you are fine. The best prints as far as surface quality and vulcanizing are from envisiontec printers. You can put it right in a low temp or high temp mold. Chances are the high temp will destroy the piece but I always get a good cavity. In a low temp mold they work even better, you just need the right release agent for your silicon mold rubber. |
| shaun from s and s models | 18 Apr 2014 12:56 p.m. PST |
I have successfully vulcanised the white nylon 3d prints, I have done quite a few items like wheels, tyres ect and parts for my d8 dozer like the arms.
the rough surface texture still comes out a bit grainy in metal however. |
| RFCasting | 18 Apr 2014 7:16 p.m. PST |
Cheers for all this – now other question – can you actually get vulcanisers that allow you monitor pressure? Is there some sort of tool I can use to measure it? Can I buy a new jack with some sort of gauge, or is it simply a case of no such 'pressure measuring' vulcaniser exists and its just a case of play it by ear when jacking it up…? |
| headzombie | 18 Apr 2014 9:38 p.m. PST |
Don't tighten it so much that you squash and deform the mold. That's all you really need. |
| shaun from s and s models | 19 Apr 2014 9:07 a.m. PST |
I would echo zombie's comments.
are you in the uk, rf casting?
shaun |
| RFCasting | 20 Apr 2014 7:02 a.m. PST |
Yes I am, Northumberland – right now Im looking at the costs of getting the masters made in sintered metal (metal 3D printing) – they are for 6mm miniature so potentially flimsy if anything else :S |
| Crusoe the Painter | 28 Apr 2014 8:09 p.m. PST |
Use low temp vulcanizing silicone mold rubber. Its made for exactly this kind of stuff. You can even make molds from polystyrene masters in some versions. One example here : link |
| Crusoe the Painter | 28 Apr 2014 8:12 p.m. PST |
Sintered metal will be super expensive, at the detail level needed for 6m. The normal stuff is pretty blobby. finelineprototyping.com These guys offer a high-res sintered metal printing, but it costs about $500 USD for a 28mm figure. link The high res green is a photoacrylic, and will vulc just fine in low temp vulcing silicone rubber. |
| Crusoe the Painter | 28 Apr 2014 8:12 p.m. PST |
They also have a automatic quote system. Just upload your file for an instant quote. |
| Itlerion | 03 May 2014 9:33 p.m. PST |
HI, this would be my first post in the whole page :D If we are talking about TRUE HD pritns (15-30 microns each line)they use printing material that with no problem resist the vulcanizing, i have tested at 160/180º with REALLY TIGHT C-clamps (i dont have the presure machine)and they resist it, while otehr 3D print that i printed in i.materialse -wich is similar.. or the same than other printing service webpages-, could be molded but they broke into small pieces when i pulled them out. by the way,it is a waste of money printing in metal.. in the "orange-like" material that miniatures are made, a 28mm cost 80-100 euros.. and a 15mm 10-16 euros… forget metal for vulcanizing (my advice) salutes! and sorry my english |
