| Big Ian | 17 Apr 2014 11:30 a.m. PST |
Ok, I need a little help. New to Naps but really like the 3mm Nap range by O8, but which of their codes I could use for British and French armies? Can anyone point me in the right direction? I am going to use LBDS rules. Thanks in advance. |
| MajorB | 17 Apr 2014 11:38 a.m. PST |
which of their codes I could use for British and French armies? Most of them. Avoid the ones in helmets or bicornes. I suggest you use the shako w/ plumes for the French. |
| vtsaogames | 17 Apr 2014 11:45 a.m. PST |
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| forwardmarchstudios | 17 Apr 2014 11:49 a.m. PST |
If you want to show the pompom then use the shako w/plumes and put a dot on it. If you don't want to show the pompom then just get the regular ones and call it campaign hats. I use most non-pompom myself, but I may change in the future. Same for the Brits though, actually. Didn't the British heavy cav in Spain have bicornes?
There's a lot of workarounds for things that are missing. You can simply paint on a lot of missing details. Big tip: You can use the ACW cannons for the British, since they have a single trail. I would imagine that horse teams, etc should be coming out sooner than later. The range is not complete by a long shot but Marcin has assured me that a lot more is in the works. |
| Big Ian | 17 Apr 2014 11:51 a.m. PST |
Sorry finger dyslexia, DSLB = drums and shakos large battles |
| MajorB | 17 Apr 2014 11:54 a.m. PST |
Didn't the British heavy cav in Spain have bicornes? Yes, they did. I was referring to the infantry. The OP did not specify whether he wants Peninsular War or not. |
| boy wundyr x | 17 Apr 2014 2:05 p.m. PST |
I've had some of the same challenges myself, a master list by someone who's already gone through the selection process would be awesome, something like "Regiment X = Code Y". |
| MajorB | 17 Apr 2014 2:29 p.m. PST |
a master list by someone who's already gone through the selection process would be awesome, something like "Regiment X = Code Y". At that scale I would have thought that was hardly necessary. |
Just Jack  | 17 Apr 2014 5:55 p.m. PST |
If you don't think it's necessary then you don't really have anything to add to the conversation. Thanks for… nothing. |
| boy wundyr x | 17 Apr 2014 8:56 p.m. PST |
@Major Bumsore – that might be true for 2mm, but not 3mm. |
| MajorB | 18 Apr 2014 5:05 a.m. PST |
If you don't think it's necessary then you don't really have anything to add to the conversation. Thanks for… nothing.<q/>No, what I mean is that at this scale, the figures are going to be pretty generic, so the "Napoleonic infantry in shako" for example will give you French, British, Prussian, Russian, even US. At this scale you can't tell the difference between a Stovepipe or a Belgian shako … |
| Just Jack | 18 Apr 2014 6:26 a.m. PST |
Sorry MB, I was a little grumpy last night, really jonesing for a cigarrette… In any case, while the 08 Napoleonic figures are incredibly detailed, I would agree with the the idea that "a shako is a shako." But, for me personally, I carry that attitude all the way up to my beloved 10mm. I personally don't go so far as to use shakos when it should be bicornes, but I don't really care about the difference between a stovepipe and a Belgic (at 10mm and below). Heck, I've been thinking of buying these 3mm figs to do 1847 US vs. Mexico! V/R,
Jack |
| davesimpson | 18 Apr 2014 10:51 a.m. PST |
Well… Belgian shakos and regular shakos are noticeably different in this scale, up close. From arms length', there's obviously not much difference. |
| MajorB | 20 Apr 2014 5:03 a.m. PST |
Belgian shakos and regular shakos are noticeably different in this scale, up close. The O8 figure range only offers "shakos" – no distinction between Stovepipe or Belgian, I'm afraid. |
