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"Military Costume in Códice De Trajes, 1547" Topic


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Druzhina17 Apr 2014 4:05 a.m. PST

The Códice De Trajes is a costume book from c.1547 produced in Germany and preserved in Spain.
It portrays mostly civilian costume but there are pictures of North-African, Spanish, Basque, Netherlandish, English & Habsburg soldiers.
There are also Hungarians, Mamelukes, Ottomans & Tatars. These are not all primary sources, e.g the Turks share a source with Three Mounted Orientals by Daniel Hopfer as do the Mamelukes (labelled MOSQVWITER).
Does anyone recognise any other copies?

MIRROR SITE
Military Costume in Códice De Trajes, 1547

Druzhina
Illustrations of Costume & Soldiers

Daniel S17 Apr 2014 4:42 a.m. PST

The "Mamelukes"/"Mosqvwiter" based on Hopfer look much more eastern European than Egyptian. The CDJ version look a lot like Wallachians and fur hats would not exactly be a good choice of headwear for the middle east. Hopfers original also has more than a few "eastern European" details as well.

I will have to check my collection of Landsknecht images but I think that both the fähnrich and the arquebusier are copied from older images. On the whole all of the Landsknechts look a bit old fashioned for 1547 if compared to other mid-late 1540's images. (There is a noteworthy absence of the Spanish influende which led to the Pluderhose to name one thing.) For example the extreme version of the kurzhosen worn by the arquebusier is usually found in images from about 1515-1530 but there is a 1543 print by Hans-Sebald Beham which shows it as well. The question of course is if the print date is accurate or not. (Could well be an old engraving that had gathered dust until printed in 1543)

GurKhan17 Apr 2014 8:30 a.m. PST

Whether that red cap's fur or not, it looks to be the same style as worn by Arnold von Harff's Mamluk, and possibly the ones worn in the Kitab al-makhzun.

Druzhina19 Apr 2014 2:49 a.m. PST

There are also similar red hats in 'The reception of Ambassador Domenico Trevisiano at Damascus' painting by Gentille Bellini school, 1511. Some are more pointed than others and some have turbans wrapped around them. None have feathers.

The source for Hopfer's Mamelukes is Jan Swart van Groningen's series Procession of Turkish Riders, a set of five prints (1526; Hollstein, nos 8-11) depicting Sultan Suleyman the Great and his entourage, the woodcuts executed by Willem Liefrinck (1490-1542). These may not have had many captions. All I have found is this little picture:

Six Turkish horsemen, riding to the left by Jan Swart van Groningen

The Códice De Trajes version may be based on the Hopfer plate, or they may both be based on Swart's.

They may actually be balkan but the intention is to portray muslims as both versions have a crescent on the flags.

Druzhina
Illustrations of Costume & Soldiers

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