"Working With Metal" Topic

I'm very new to the hobby, and about to do some clean-up on some 15mm metal figs to prep them for priming and painting.

I have hobby knives, mini files, small sandpaper sheets, and I've watched a couple of tutorials.

I started a similar thread about resin, and decided I'd want to work with it in my garage, instead of my living room or kitchen, because of the toxic/iritant properties of the dust.

Are there similar concerns with metal figures? Do they still contain lead? Do I need to work with them away from the pets and family? Any tips, tricks, tools or tutorials you can recommend? Any health/safety concerns to be aware of?

Thanks, as always, for the kind words of wisdom and insight. Cheers.

There aren't any real health concerns working with metal. Even if you ate it you probably would only suffer the physical effects of that rather than any significant chemical damage.

I would recommend using a dull knife to clean the mold lines and make sure you have a nice sharp pair of clippers, they will be your most useful cutting tool.

Thanks for the info.

Is super glue the right adhesive? Will Liquid Green Stuff work for minor gaps?

I just may get some priming done this week, if the weather holds. 8)

Is super glue the right adhesive?

Not necessarily. It depends what you are sticking to what.

Metal to metal, mostly.

I have some metal figs (mostly mechs) with parts to be glued on.

And I want to glue these metal figs to galvanized washers.

Is there some other common adhesive I should be using instead?

Any ca glue well work, but I use gel type glues for heavy parts and models.

You got clippers?

Here is what I use for many jobs including putting together figures and basing. Not as fast drying as ca glue, but it is far more versatile.

link

Have not used super glue for anything for years!

Litko sells those yellow clippers fer Cutting plastic and metal…I love them so…sand paper and soap/water…..zap a gap glue is a must for me…and soap and water again to get all the glue off my fingers.

A small hand drill for pinning big metal pieces. ..cutpaper clips for pins…and small magnets to let ur turrets turn round

McWong73 wrote:

Any ca glue well work, but I use gel type glues for heavy parts and models.

You got clippers?

I'll look at some other types of glue.

I've got the set that came with the GW Citadel Hobby Starter Kit. (I briefly toyed with the idea of WH40K/28mm sci fi gaming.)

corporalpat said:

Here is what I use for many jobs including putting together figures and basing. Not as fast drying as ca glue, but it is far more versatile.

link

Have not used super glue for anything for years!

Back to Michael's I go!

Twoball Cane posted:

Litko sells those yellow clippers fer Cutting plastic and metal…I love them so…sand paper and soap/water…..zap a gap glue is a must for me…and soap and water again to get all the glue off my fingers.

A small hand drill for pinning big metal pieces. ..cutpaper clips for pins…and small magnets to let ur turrets turn round

zap a gap… googling

OK, definitely back to Michael's…

I picked up a beader's drill at Michael's. Glue the pins, as well as the joint?

I saw tiny rare earth magnets at Michael's. I guess I'll grab half a dozen and try them out.

Thanks again, all. Happy prepping!

I tried using super glue many years ago, but found it was too brittle and since then I have never used it.

Super Glues (CA) have very low shear strength. CA glues strength is that they are difficult to pull directly apart; sideways shearing will snap them off easily.

I've tried CA's, but their weak shear strength drove me to other products. I have never tried E6000, but I will now, after reading its description. Thanks for that! Cheers!

Ah, the trips to Michael's continue…

I got spoiled buying acrylic paint and white glue, everything I've bought this week has had a skull-and-crossbones on it.

War(gaming) is hell.

So I picked up some E-6000 with the jewelry/bead applicator. Boy does this stuff have some stern labels on it. Is that a poison/toxic symbol? Why yes, it is! Sets immediately after curing for ten minutes huh? I better start with something more forgiving, but I bought some for basing. :-|

I couldn't find Zap-a-Gap, but they did have LocTite slow-setting super glue gel, which looked more my speed, and they also had the Testor's wood/metal cement, which also has the usual scary labels on it (I guess because people buy it for kids). I got the slow-acting LocTite super gel stuff.

Oh, crap I forgot to pick up acrylic pumice gel…

And I forgot the magnets…

Oh well, back again tomorrow.

For those who don't use CA/super glue, what do you recommend? Is there something somewhat n00b-friendly for metal that will still last for years? Anything less deadly/carcinogenic? 8)

Grommet

Big pieces like mechs imo often need a few pins…but I think pinning is used more in 28mm. ..but drill alil hole lined up w both pieces u want to pin. I use staples or paper clips and cut the appropriate length…glue liberally!

Warstore sells rare earth magnets…in different sizes…

I get my zap a gap at a railroad store..never seen it at Michael's…lots of different opinions on what glue to use….as with most things it is a personal choice…

U are asking alot of great questions by the way!

There's not really any good non-toxic glues for metal.

I actually use two kinds of superglue, some pins, and even little balls of real greenstuff in the joins.

I use Zap-a-gap medium CA for basic assembly, along with pins in small joints. For example, I pinned the swords on the Domaru and Haramaki Infinity minis:

If the joint just isn't cooperating, a tiny ball of GS (about what builds up under your thumbnail is all you need!) will fill all the major gaps in the joint. Assuming that you've also pinned the joint, you put the little ball of GS into the joint, push everything together, then take it apart to add superglue to the side that doesn't have GS on it. GS sets immediately when it touches superglue, so it's critical that you squash the GS in a "dry fit" before adding glue.

Then, once all that is dry (overnight is good), I use a drop of Zap CA+ super thin (aka "pink" because the label for the super-thin CA is pink). This stuff is thinner than water, and will flow into any spaces that didn't get filled before. It makes a super-solid joint.

Any model I've given the total treatment to hasn't broken, even if dropped onto bare concrete.

Thanks lion…I forgot to mention the different color labels for the zap a gap product…I am going to try ur Greenstuff tip next time.

I like to hold the two pieces pinned and glued with hobby vice clamps manipulated
Into the desired position over night and glue them again after the first hour clamped…I always use the green label zapagap. Perhaps ill try the pink

Thank u