| craigbe | 18 Mar 2014 7:45 a.m. PST |
Does anyone know what temps Green Stuff can withstand? I have models in Green Stuff and 2 types of rubber one is Castaldo VLT rubber which is great but hard to get apart (lots of cutting). It melts at 165-190F which is great but separating even using mold release and mica powder is a pain. I also have higher temp rubber which is 325F for about 60mins, it's easier to separate but I'm afraid the Green Stuff won't withstand that temp in the vulcanizer. Has anyone made molds from high temp rubber using Green Stuff as the model? Thanks, Craig |
| olicana | 18 Mar 2014 8:01 a.m. PST |
I'm presuming that green stuff, as it replaced Milliput, will withstand vulcanising temperatures. Having said that, in making the mould in a vulcanised mould maker Milliput models were useless (they fell apart) afterwards due to the heat and extreme pressure. If you want to keep the master intact, you might be better doing a cold cure RTV rubber mould and cold casting a metal master. Hope that helps. You cut the mould apart? There is a two half drop mould making lesson here. link |
| 45thdiv | 18 Mar 2014 8:48 a.m. PST |
What do the specs say on the kneadatite (green stuff) packaging? Temps are given. That should give you an answer. |
| headzombie | 18 Mar 2014 8:54 a.m. PST |
You'll get a perfect cavity with greenstuff at that temp. It won't melt or anything. It may become a little brittle and may come apart when de-molding depending on how well your master was constructed. I do it all the time. |
| 45thdiv | 18 Mar 2014 8:54 a.m. PST |
The web site for the.company that makes it says "250 deg F) |
| FABET01 | 18 Mar 2014 9:19 a.m. PST |
If by Greenstuff you mean Kneadatite (the two part epoxy from Polymeric) it will hold up just fine to vulcanization. That's what it's designed to do. It will stand up to 2000 lbs of pressure at 325 degrees F/162 degrees C). |
| ancientsgamer | 18 Mar 2014 10:50 a.m. PST |
It is the industry standard for figure masters… But generally, don't you create a single casing mold to make casting masters? Then you would use the metal masters to make your mold?
Ah, I see someone else made a similar comment.
As Olicana said, use RTV and cast some metal masters for your master spin mold. I would treat my green stuff masters like the works of art they are and not go directly to vulcanized copies. Also, be sure to clean up your metal casting masters carefully prior to making your vulcanized molds. Which brings up a point to allow for some shrinkage in the process to you final cast metal production pieces. |
| Timothy L Mayer | 25 Mar 2014 6:48 p.m. PST |
Most epoxy systems break-down at 350 DEG F or above. Some will hold their form for a while before it starts to happen.
(cough cough) Procreate (cough cough) is especially designed for vulcanized molds. |
LeonAdler  | 30 Mar 2014 2:20 p.m. PST |
"green stuff, as it replaced Milliput" not for some of us!lol
Tried the procreate, couldnt get on with it way to 'stiff' for my technique, might use it on some 15's maybe. Then again found the same with greentuff so what do I know. Every designer has their own prefered way of doing things.
L |
| Timothy L Mayer | 01 Apr 2014 1:57 p.m. PST |
There are ways to soften ProCreate. Try working a little water into it, just not too much. Like 1%. |
| LeonAdler | 01 Apr 2014 2:52 p.m. PST |
Timothy L Mayer, ta for the tip I'll bear it mind should I try the stuff again.
L |
| Timothy L Mayer | 24 Jun 2014 7:23 p.m. PST |
Would like to hear if it ever worked out. |
