steamingdave47 | 05 Mar 2014 9:58 a.m. PST |
Been experimenting with the "Magic Wash" technique. Decided to varnish first to seal the acrylic paint and so avoid the darkening of colours that some people have commented on. Usually, I use Humbrol Satincote or Dullcote, but in this case I decided to try some Windsor and Newton proper acrylic satin varnish. Varnish went on fine, but when I picked up the figures again, I noticed that, in a few cases, the black eye dots had disappeared. I used Rowney acrylic black ink for these and the eyes were painted about 10 days ago. One figure also seems to have a little of his buff coat washed off to reveal the underlying red paint (I changed my mind about how I wanted him to look). Again, this was not paint put on in the last 24 hours. The varnish does say to allow 24 hours at least and longer for thicker coats of paint. Anyone else had this problem? |
normsmith | 05 Mar 2014 10:48 a.m. PST |
Fascinating, I just did some ACW confederates, so greys, mustard and dull red etc and that varnish did not cause a problem. Like you, the varnish was to protect against my 'future wash'. I use art products for painting (pictures) and have used both student quality and artist quality paints with that varnish without issue. It would be interesting to see if it is reacting with inks. I am using it this week, so will keep a closer eye on that. I usually use Winsor and Newton brown ink, but yesterday bought Daler Rowney burnt umber ink, so I will see if I get a similar reaction. |
Garryowen | 05 Mar 2014 11:56 a.m. PST |
I use Testors gloss lacquer over acrylics that I have allowed to dry roughly 24 hours. I have never had the problem. Tom |
Garand | 05 Mar 2014 12:15 p.m. PST |
Sounds like the varnish is "re-activating" the acrylic paint underneath. Damon. |
steamingdave47 | 05 Mar 2014 1:44 p.m. PST |
I think you are right Garrand, what I don't understand is why it only affected 3 out of 16 figures. Thank goodness it was only the eye dots and a motif on the flag-easily amended and I will seal with Mattcote. Garryowen- see lots of people on TMP use Testors, don't think I have seen it anywhere in UK, except on-line. Maybe someone will have it at the Alumwell show on Sunday. |
Todosi | 05 Mar 2014 2:28 p.m. PST |
Are you brushing the varnish on or spraying? Testor's Dullcote in the bottle warns not to brush it on, or what you are describing may happen. |
Garryowen | 05 Mar 2014 5:01 p.m. PST |
Steaming,I think a gloss clear lacquer from a DIY or paint store may work just as well as Testors. It would certainly cost less. I use the brush on for this step. Tom |
grambo | 06 Mar 2014 3:39 a.m. PST |
I have been using the 'magic wash' method for some time and understand the issue you refer to. These days I begin with a white primer then use sepia and black inks here and there before giving everything a magic wash. You have to be careful not to overbrush the inks as they will tend to brush off in some places I have found. Other acrylics don't seem to have this problem though, just the inks in my experience. I use a soft brush for the magic (Klear) wash and find this seals everything perfectly. Hope this makes and helps in some way? I give everything a final coat of vallejo matt varnish by brush. In short, yes I find inks can tend to wash away when magic washed or varnished unless done very carefully! Hope this is relevant to your question, but it shows a group of 20mm ECW figures with ink applied over a white primer, sepia ink over muskets/rests, faces hands, apostles etc. When the figure gets its magish wash I notice that the ink is disolved slightly on the apostles etc, but in this case it gives a highlight effect and a nice 'wood' colour. I try to use this to my advantage, once you are aware of it, you can control it :-)
Lots of examples of figures painted by this method on my painting blog: link |
EagleSixFive | 06 Mar 2014 5:56 a.m. PST |
steamingdave47 My suggestion would be to mix into the ink a small amount of Binder Medium. This should add enough permanence to the ink once dry to resist any lifting by varnish topcoats. You will find it best to leave ink drying for a day before varnishing with this method as the medium will delay curing. Sorry I can't point you to any specific brand of Binder Medium as I don't know what is available in your neck of the woods. Just google it. |
normsmith | 06 Mar 2014 6:55 a.m. PST |
Grambo, in your description, are you basically black-lining with ink and then coating with just the polish or does your polish (magic mix) also have some ink in it? I have just done a test run of figures today with the W&N varnish
Just an hour after painting, so I will check later to see what effects if any have occurred. |
Martin Rapier | 06 Mar 2014 9:33 a.m. PST |
I've managed to trash the odd inkwash with painted on varnish, just one of those things. I probably didn't let it dry for long enough. |
steamingdave47 | 06 Mar 2014 11:48 a.m. PST |
Seems as if I am not alone with this issue. Todosi- if Testors in bottle warns not to brush on, are they expecting you to use and airbrush? Grambo-nice set of figures, they don't appear to have suffered too much. Eaglesixfive- thanks for the tip. Ism sure my local art shop will have something suitable. Normsmith- will be interested in result of your experiment. I think this thread shows how TMP can work well, no risk of stifles or doghousing! (I hope) |
Paint Pig | 08 Mar 2014 8:08 p.m. PST |
Lacquer based inks, as you used, will reactivate. As Mr Eagle65 suggests mix it into a medium (varnish) to apply(thin with isopropyl based window cleaner if too thick), preferably acrylic medium in this case as you are using an oil/enamel based varnish. Always expect lacquer based inks to reactivate, they may not on occasion, but it is less trouble to be prepared for the worst in the long run . regards dave |