"I'd heard of lead rot, but tin pest is new on me." Topic
7 Posts
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PygmaelionAgain | 25 Feb 2014 12:23 p.m. PST |
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_pest Has anyone on here experienced this first hand? I'm pretty sure most everything I've handled has been a suitable alloy that doesn't suffer from this. |
Dye4minis | 25 Feb 2014 3:01 p.m. PST |
I have seen this on some of my old race car tracks from when i was a kid in the 60's. Decades later, the cars no longer went as fast until I lightly sandpapered the tracks to remove what "I" thought was rust. When I ran GFI, we used a mix of 94% tin; 6% antimony. It yielded the detail crisper and seemed to get more figures per pound than my experience with lead-tin (60-40) alloys of the 70's-90's. Duke once told me that the ideal model figure mix was 60% lead; 35% tin; 3% Antimony and 2% Bismouth. It was hard for me to find a mix close to that locally, so I went for the one I used. Tom Dye |
Rudi the german | 25 Feb 2014 3:24 p.m. PST |
Yes,
. Dont panic.. Untercoat and paint. Tin pest needs air. |
goragrad | 26 Feb 2014 12:47 a.m. PST |
Question – should one remove the suspect corrosion with an acid bath or something similar? Have had some minis that I was pretty sure were pewter with a suspicious coating. |
Dye4minis | 26 Feb 2014 10:11 a.m. PST |
A bath in a mild acid (like vinegar) usually does the trick in removing the powder. But paint the figure (or clear coat it) within the next 5 years or so
/>) |
goragrad | 26 Feb 2014 2:11 p.m. PST |
That soon
I'll have to shift gears
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Crusoe the Painter | 26 Feb 2014 4:16 p.m. PST |
Tin pest doesn't need air. The crystals rearrange on the atomic level. Its not oxidative damage like lead rot. Don't store your pure tine wargaming figs outside in the artic, they might turn into a pile of tin powder. :) |
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