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"I'd heard of lead rot, but tin pest is new on me." Topic


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PygmaelionAgain25 Feb 2014 12:23 p.m. PST

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_pest

Has anyone on here experienced this first hand?

I'm pretty sure most everything I've handled has been a suitable alloy that doesn't suffer from this.

Personal logo Dye4minis Supporting Member of TMP25 Feb 2014 3:01 p.m. PST

I have seen this on some of my old race car tracks from when i was a kid in the 60's. Decades later, the cars no longer went as fast until I lightly sandpapered the tracks to remove what "I" thought was rust.

When I ran GFI, we used a mix of 94% tin; 6% antimony. It yielded the detail crisper and seemed to get more figures per pound than my experience with lead-tin (60-40) alloys of the 70's-90's. Duke once told me that the ideal model figure mix was 60% lead; 35% tin; 3% Antimony and 2% Bismouth. It was hard for me to find a mix close to that locally, so I went for the one I used.

Tom Dye

Rudi the german25 Feb 2014 3:24 p.m. PST

Yes,…. Dont panic.. Untercoat and paint. Tin pest needs air.

goragrad26 Feb 2014 12:47 a.m. PST

Question – should one remove the suspect corrosion with an acid bath or something similar?

Have had some minis that I was pretty sure were pewter with a suspicious coating.

Personal logo Dye4minis Supporting Member of TMP26 Feb 2014 10:11 a.m. PST

A bath in a mild acid (like vinegar) usually does the trick in removing the powder. But paint the figure (or clear coat it) within the next 5 years or so…/>)

goragrad26 Feb 2014 2:11 p.m. PST

That soon…


I'll have to shift gears…

Crusoe the Painter26 Feb 2014 4:16 p.m. PST

Tin pest doesn't need air. The crystals rearrange on the atomic level. Its not oxidative damage like lead rot.

Don't store your pure tine wargaming figs outside in the artic, they might turn into a pile of tin powder. :)

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