"Best way to apply decals " Topic

Looking for the best and easiest method. Any ideas?

Use the Micro-Sol and Micro-set recipe. They should be available on line or at your friendly local hobby shop.

I made a Eureka! discovery. You do not have to let them float off the backing paper and spend 5 minutes locating them in a dish.
Instead, I get a plastic tray. Place the DRY decal in the tray face up, and transfer water by paint brush to the decal. Let it float in the drops of water. Get the backing thoroughly wet. Let the decal come loose and test it with a good #2 paint brush. Following the Micro recipe, place and locate the decal with the brush.

Make sure that the surface you are applying the decal to has a gloss varnish coat to avoid silvering.
After the decal is dry, coat it again with gloss varnish before spraying with Dullcote.

I don't know about the plastic tray thing, but I do pretty much everything else John said. Richard

What John said, except I soak for about 15 seconds then let them sit out of the water until the decal can be shifted on the backing paper. I like using micro-brushes for decal installation. link

How I apply decals:

1. Glosscote the area the decal is to go. I usually glosscote the entire model to serve as a protective coat. This is important; not only does it improve decal adhesion, it helps prevent air from getting under the decal and causing the clear areas from clouding (called "frosting" by hobbyists).

2. Soak the decal for the recommended time. I usually dip the decal in water for 10 sec, then let it sit on my desk until the required time is up. Some decals don't list a time, so I start testing at around 45sec. Some may take longer.

3. There is no need to float the decal off the backing paper. Instead, place the decal with the backing paper still on at around the area the decal is to be applied. Using a brush, gently slide the decal off the paper and into the correct position. You might need to use a little water to lubricate the decal so it will move more easily without tearing. Some people like to use Microset under the decal. I do not. YMMV.

4. Blot away the water with a tissue. I usually touch a corner near the decal to suck up the excess water, then gently blot from one corner to another.

5. Use a decal solvent like Microsol or Solvaset. This performs two functions: it softens the decal to better conform to details, curves, etc. as well as snuggle the decal down and lessen the edges of the carrier film. After drying if you notice any air bubbles, stab them with the tip of a hobby knife and reapply solvent. DO NOT handle the model around the decalled area until fully dried.

6. Once you are satisfied with your decal job, apply another coat of glosscote to seal in the decal and further hide the carrier film edges. With high quality silk screened decals, this will make the decal look painted on. Lithographed decals usually have heavier carrier film, so might need multiple coats of solvent to get them to snuggle down and eliminate the carrier film. Usually it is best to use an acrylic glosscote at this stage (skipping a step and using a dullcote at this stage is not recommended -- it may help highlight the carrier film edges instead).

Disclaimer: I have been a plastic modeler for the last 30 years.

Damon.

I do exactly the same thing Garad does, including the dip the decal in the water and let sit outside the water until loose part. It works great and my decals look painted on with no edges and extra film showing.

Hi Damon!

Which kind of gloss coat do you use? By spray?

Thanks.

For glosscote I use Future Floor Finish sprayed through an airbrush. You can also brush it on too, if you like. As an acrylic finish, it won't harm the decals, and seals well for further coats. You can brush it on, but I find it performs best when airbrushed.

Damon.

I am not an expert and I rarely use decals but doing 15mm shield transfers/decals has taught me 2 basic things. Most people have probably noticed decals look shiny after application and not realistic as you can see the clear edges. After applying a coat of gloss protective clear-coat spray, this disappears and the decal looks fantastic (I hope a flat clear-coat makes them disappear also but I don't use them). I suppose a brush on clear-coat would do the same thing. However, I have learned the hard way the decal has to be 100% dry first. Let the decal dry at least overnight before any clear-coats or they wrinkle up and are ruined. That is my experience any way.

Has anyone had any experience with decals printed on white decal paper. I find I can see a white outline due to the thickness of the decal.

Guess I could touch it up with paint.