"Squadron Putty, Filling Gaps" Topic
14 Posts
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JD Lee | 21 Feb 2014 7:39 a.m. PST |
What is the difference between the grey and the green putty? Is one better to use on metal? Thanks |
Garand | 21 Feb 2014 9:10 a.m. PST |
They're both the same, and not really suitable for metal. The difference is in color, which is useful depending on what color plastic you are using it on. Damon. |
HistoryPhD | 21 Feb 2014 9:13 a.m. PST |
I think there's also a white variety. |
haywire | 21 Feb 2014 9:45 a.m. PST |
I thought the color had something to do with the grain size with the white being finer than green, but I could be wrong. |
Garand | 21 Feb 2014 9:50 a.m. PST |
Well I never noticed a difference! That being said, for most of my filling needs for plastic models, I use superglue instantly cured (it stays soft for a while so it is more easily sanded out), much better than plastic putty as it does not shrink, and resists cracking if the plastic flexes a little. Damon. |
JD Lee | 21 Feb 2014 10:10 a.m. PST |
What is best for filing gaps in 15mm tanks? |
HistoryPhD | 21 Feb 2014 10:45 a.m. PST |
I would guess superglue gel |
JD Lee | 21 Feb 2014 11:30 a.m. PST |
Should of set what is best for filing gaps in 15mm metal tanks. |
Garand | 21 Feb 2014 1:44 p.m. PST |
For me, that depends on where the gap is. I've used super glue instantly cured, epoxy, and epoxy putty as gap fillers. Also don't discount slapping some mud over the offending gap or stowage
:) Damon. |
jpattern2 | 21 Feb 2014 6:36 p.m. PST |
I use Damon's technique, including hiding larger gaps or flaws with mud, camo nets, or stowage. I've used it on metal minis many times, works great. For larger gaps, instead of using gel, I fill the gap with plain old baking powder, then apply a drop of thin (regular) superglue. It sets immediately with a little puff of smoke (work in a well ventilated area!), sets faster than the gel, and uses less superglue than the gel. If you're working with plastic, remember to sand it immediately. If you let it set/cure too long, it becomes much harder than the surrounding plastic, and much harder to get a smooth seam without sanding away too much detail. That also means, don't fill too much seam at one time. |
jpattern2 | 22 Feb 2014 8:24 a.m. PST |
From Wiki: When added to baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), cyanoacrylate glue forms a hard, lightweight adhesive filler (baking soda is first used to fill a gap then the adhesive is dropped onto the baking soda). This works well with porous materials that the glue does not work well with alone. This method is sometimes used by aircraft modelers to assemble or repair polystyrene foam parts. It is also used to repair small nicks in the leading edge of composite propeller blades on light aircraft. The reaction between cyanoacrylate and baking soda is very exothermic (heat-producing) and also produces noxious vapors. . . Applying cyanoacrylate to some natural materials such as cotton, leather or wool (cotton swabs, cotton balls, and certain yarns or fabrics) results in a powerful, rapid exothermic reaction. The heat released may cause serious burns,[19] ignite the cotton product, or release irritating white smoke. Material Safety Data Sheets for cyanoacrylate instruct users not to wear cotton or wool clothing, especially cotton gloves, when applying or handling cyanoacrylates. |
JD Lee | 22 Feb 2014 4:50 p.m. PST |
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Botch B | 01 Jul 2014 2:40 a.m. PST |
Coming to this late but
try talcum powder instead of baking powder. It doesn't seem to react with smoke and if you choose a nice one it can even be perfumed! One of three ways to do it, depending on the gap and its size: a) talc first – into the gap, them superglue on top. b) glue first into the gap, then talc on top c) mix the two together on a metal tin lid or similar, into a gloop of the right consistency (depends on size of gap) and apply with a cocktail stick tip. The reaction with cotton thread can be quite alarming – smoke and a smell – but hey, tiny amounts. And the end result is stiff thread held in place forever – got to be worth it. |
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