"Building a wargaming table" Topic

Hi guys, for the last 6 months I have been building my new "man cave"and now I'm nearly ready to start the construction of the gaming tabletop. I've been gaming for over thirty years now and this is the first time I have been able to move away from throwing a painted 6x4 onto the dining table. I have looked at quite a few setups over the last few months here and elsewhere on various blogs etc and have an idea of what I want it to look like, but I would like to throw a few questions to the experienced before I make any mistakes.
There are some design specs that have to be met, which I have listed below.
First up I do have some space considerations do I have to stick to a playing area of 6 x 4.
Second the entire table construction will be hoisted up to the ceiling when not in use, to enable use of entire floor space in workshop from time to time. The legs will fold up into the table base for out of the storage.

My ideal is to have a 12" layout area at each end, but a total length of 8 feet is going to make it a little uncomfortable to move around in the space when the table is down for extended times.
Q.1 Would 6 inches be enough layout space at each end or is it not worth it?
Q.2 Does a layout area along the sides work, or even just down one side work?
Q.3 Some tables I have seen pics of have sidewalls about 3-4 inches high so that the playing surface is like a huge tray. Are there any advantages/disadvantages with this design as I am seriously considering it? The most obvoius is that it keeps dice off the floor and saves the odd model that my get bumped off!

Besides these questions any other brainstorming/advice would be warmly welcomed.
Ewan

Add in, or use folding tables instead, to add extra length, or depth to your existing table, or to support one, or more 8' x 4' sheets of plywood, or foam.

Personally, I like a 6' x 12' table, myself.

Folding tables don't cost that much, are portable, and offer a tremendous amount of gaming flexibility.

Get some rolling carts. Push them out of the way when your done setting up and they can be handy for using when in workshop mode.

Hi Mako11
Thanks for replying
I didn't want to have any extra tables for layout but rather integrate as much functionality into one piece of furniture, I thought about having two card tables but its going to start getting cramped.
My biggest problem will be storage space.Hoisting to the ceiling will be my only option if I need the floor area, all of my wall space will be taken up with either work benches or low cupboards with a bench top and a bookcase above. I just wouldn't have anywhere to place anymore furniture even folding types.
Also my goal here is to create a single permanent piece of furniture, which will if needed be, move house with me.
The legs of the structure will fold up under the tabletop much like the way plastic folding tables work. but the structure will be strong and sturdy.
My first years of my work working life was spent building boats, so I am not unaccustomed to working with timber, or shifting weights using rope and pulleys. A large 6' x 12' would be nice but I only have so much space.

As for foam I am actually converting all of my terrain away from the use of foam where possible. I have made numerous lovely pieces of terrain out of foam over the years but its all getting tatty from damage by little bumps and knocks. So I have started replacing pieces out of sanded down sheets of MDF. Its obviously heavier than foam, but storage is less of an issue as its more robust. and can be stored stacked in my cupboards without fear of rubbing or bumping damage. I can also shape it just as well as foam with the various power tools at my disposal.

Let me try your questions:

Q.1 Would 6 inches be enough layout space at each end or is it not worth it?

Ehh… It wouldn't hold a quick reference sheet, but would hold a few models. I'd say sure.

Q.2 Does a layout area along the sides work, or even just down one side work?

I'd say no. Constantly reaching across it would be annoying at best and damaging to the models at worst.

Q.3 Some tables I have seen pics of have sidewalls about 3-4 inches high so that the playing surface is like a huge tray.

I'm guessing the 3-4" comes from a 1"x4" trim board, which would be 3.5" high. I think a lip is great, but you can probably get by with less than that. It really depends on the support braces under the playing surface. If your supports and playing surface are 1.5" thick, that leaves 2", which is probably good.

You could have something there with the rolling cart idea.
Maybe a small cabinet, a bit like a bedside unit with a draw and some shelves and an adjustable and removable rostrum on top to hold a rule book, all sitting on four castor wheels. I do have a space where I could fit them under my modelling bench when not in use.

If the table will be permanent then maybe use the space underneath for storage, either shelving or cupboards.

I think for the main table, perhaps consider screw-on legs instead of folding legs for greater stability?

For the layout area, perhaps drawers in the fashion of mahjong tables which if large enough can double as dice-trays?

One approach we've used.
We have 2' x 6' folding tables that work well.
They not only fold the legs, they fold in half again ( 2' x 3' when stowed).

Placed together they give 4' x 6' gaming area and I use a mat and terrain but could use GW battlescape or other modular board set up just as easily.

No long term storage issues and the tables work well for when we have company, holiday dinners, etc.

Lot's of adult beverages!

To get your extra 12" on either side I'd use a drawer type system. It wont be the full width of the table but you could get it close. The key there is a good set of heavy duty drawer glides. Make sure they are the full pull out type. like these link

An image is starting to form itself in my minds eye now!
A 7 foot long x 4 foot wide table with 6 inch layout at each end.
The 6 x 4 playing area is recessed about 1.5 inches below the top, this way when raised up, current terrain can be left in place and the whole thing can still be suspended from the ceiling with 12 inches clearance from the ceiling with out crushing anything.
Each end has a permanent layout area that is 6 inches wide and is made up of an 24 inch long flat area that is extended to 12" by means of a removable slide in 6 inch by 24 inch section. A bit like added extension leaves for a dining table. This would be from one side of the board to the middle and the other 6 inch by 24 inch built in part has a deep enough recess for off table figure storage, drink holder and dice storage etc. It would be L shaped. (sorry if I lost people there Its hard to explain verbally.)
The table legs would be screwed in as suggested for strength using off the shelf fittings and would be stored under the table in slide in housings when it is suspended from the ceiling.
I have a couple of light weight hollow wardrobe doors that are 70 inches x 32 inches by 1.5 inches that I will cut down and join to form the base of the table and then build the frame around that, should be nice and strong and lighter than using half inch plywood or MDF. The whole thing would be surrounded by a 4 inch wide varnished hardwood trim board to keep it looking tidy and hide the under board framing.

I just made a 6'x10' gaming table for my basement. I made a table top that was placed over four bookcases. You may want to consider this approach. No legs when you want to lift the table top to the ceiling out of your way. The bookcases can be used to hold useful gaming accessaories like dice, rules, terrain or tape measures.

My table was made of (4) 3'x 5' separate table tops bolted together. I used 2x4's to frame the separate tables. I had Home Depot cut (4) 3/4 inch MDF boards to use as the table top and bolted them unto the frames I made. I like the modular approach because I may move from my current location and would like to be able to move the sections easily. Next, I bolted the four table tops together and placed them on the bookcases. I added a center support but not sure it was needed.

For set up tables I use some small tables or even TV tray tables.

Phil

Dear Ewan Hoosami

Good luck with the hoist up table. It's going to be difficult to keep it level unless you use "servo's or have the hoist cables rigged up so they are yoked together and you move them on one hoist. I know I once tried this solution. Didn't work. Sounds great, but it isn't.
the main problems were that if it doesn't rest on say saw horses, the table will slosh around a lot and wobble, and you can't put any weight on it. So if you have two collapsible saw-horses to set up underneath when you lower it, that will be OK.

The other problem is the aisles when the table is down, the aisle space you will have around it. If you assume a 6 x 4 foot space for the hoisted up table which is the dimension you name, then you need at LEAST 2ft around either edge for people to walk around. That's still insufficient for two people to PASS each other, but let's get to that later. This means you will have to have a 10 by 8 foot space for the table to "Live" in when it's put down.

Oh yeah- another concern is your lighting. If the room is lit by a lighting fixture in the center of the room… your room is going to be very dark when the table is up. Second, lighting on the walls and on desks and tables, means even MORE aisle space…

But if you mean by layout space, side shelves and cabinets. 6" is going to be very small. What I would suggest is 24" high, 32" or so long, and 12" or so wide. These will allow lots of storage space below for books, minis terrain etc., and will not be dead space. This however will add 24 the room now 10 by 12.

Still do-able, but remember the lights and the footings.

What I did was I made by table sectonal in 36" by 42" sections. Each section made of three pine planks bolted to a frame and on a pair of table legs available in any home improvement store. These are the sturdy cafeteria table legs. These sections, I have 8 of them can be moved together in many configurations and sizes. Plus they can all be folded down and packed away.
Good Luck though.

I would love to see pictures of everyone's game table.

thanks
Duane

Here is a link to a fantastic RPG table, which could be used to mine ideas for mini's gaming: The Ultimate Gaming Table site.

I use a 9' x 6', Ping-Pong Table, having replaced the undercarriage after it died, with folding table legs, purchased from a local hardware store, two sets per half of the whole; used steamer trunk latches/hasps to lock the two halves together. Works well, fairly stable, even when bumped (it's quite heavy, and it can be broken down into two separate tables, 5' x 4.5', or it can be folded down, and stored against the wall, if necessary).

My wife uses it as a cutting table for quilting, sewing, and other fiber-related hobbies, so it gets a lot of use. Works for me as both an RPG table (up to eight players + DM, but that would be tight with three per side, and two players at one end and the DM at the other; two players per side can get tight with everyone having a PHB open, their records, dice, chips and a drink), and a mini's table. I plan to add pull-out drawers, with cup-holders, as seen on the linked web site, above, as this will clear more table space for mini's use during our RPG sessions, as well as keeping the mini's gaming table surface clear of dice, papers, and drinks, as well.

The particle board top is getting worn a bit, after 17 years, but it is still good enough to use. Eventually I will replace the top with plywood sheets cut/glued to match the current size, as it really is good for all its many uses. Cheers!

Hi thanks for the warnings OSchmidt. Not to worry, with a 7 x 4 I will have plenty of space around the table. The hoisting wont be an issue, I have in mind 4 leads connected at the corners running up to a pulley each above, then all going to a central block connection so that only one lead will do the hoisting, I also plan to balance the weight of the table with a counterweight so that there is no chance of a runaway table accidentally crashing to the ground.
When the table is lowered the weight will be taken up by its legs which will be screw attached and removed and stowed when the table is raised. The lifting leads will be removed from the table when lowered and tied out of the way to the side.
Lighting positions were thought about prior to the build, part of the roof lining runs up the gable angles on the sides so that I could gain extra ceiling height. I have two banks of twin micro fluoros on each side mounted on the gables leaving the central ceiling free.

Thanks for that link Sgt Slag, your right there are some great ideas to use there.

I can't remember who it was, but a few years ago somebody on here posted about a wargaming table they had just completed.

It used the simple, but really clever, idea of using four small bookcases on castors as the table supports with one facing in each direction. It looked most impressive with storage to hand for figures and rulesheets.

I'm sure someone will remember who it was and be able to provide a link, maybe even the original poster.

It is Lord Ashram's blog site that gave me the inspiration to use the bookcases as legs.

link

Dear Ewan

Ok then, it looks like you've got the major things squared away. It should work.

Otto