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"Paint for vinyl figures" Topic


11 Posts

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Comments or corrections?

The Gray Ghost18 Jan 2014 3:15 p.m. PST

I have just started to collect 2inch plastic/vinyl figures and would like to re-paint them in a anime style
what would be a good brand of paint to adhere to them?

MajorB18 Jan 2014 3:22 p.m. PST

On that sort of material I would use enamel paints, or at least an enamel primer followed by acrylics. If they are "bendy" plastic then it might be a good idea to give them a coat of dlute PVA first, though I must admit I've never tried that.

Garand18 Jan 2014 4:33 p.m. PST

DON'T USE ENAMEL PAINT!!!

If they really are vinyl, enamel paints will have a reaction with the plastic, and stay tacky forever. Some vinyls will seem to allow the paint to dry, only to become tacky at a later time (Reaper Bones have this effect). Instead, the best paint to use is acrylics.

Damon.

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP18 Jan 2014 6:57 p.m. PST

I paint plastic Army Men figures with standard craft acrylic paints, sealing them with Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain (Tudor -- Black; Royal Walnut -- Dark, dirty Brown), aka The Dip. There are also specialty paints, Paint for Plastics which seems to adhere better than regular craft paints, but it is also thicker. Paint for Plastics paints are available at places like Michael's Craft Stores, and they are not much more expensive than craft paints. They come in the same sized bottles, and they make several colors. Cheers!

Glengarry518 Jan 2014 7:47 p.m. PST

I was given a cold cast vinyl figure which I primered with gesso and painted with acrylics and it worked fine.

dBerczerk18 Jan 2014 8:51 p.m. PST

I've had good results on 1/32 scale plastic figures using an undercoat of KRYLON Ultra-Flat Camouflage spray paint (from ACE Hardware or WalMart in the U.S.A.), or Velspar interior/exterior spray paint from Lowes.

I prefer the tan / khaki colors for figures, rather than a flat black or flat grey undercoat.

Make sure you wash the figures first in warm, soapy water and let them dry thoroughly before you undercoat them.

You also want to secure the figure to some kind of temporary base like an old toothpaste cap, plastic wine cork, or wooden dowel, so you can handle it easily while painting. That gives you something to hold onto other than the figure itself while painting. Otherwise, holding the figure itself while paining it, you tend to rub the paint off the legs and lower torso.

Once the primer dries (overnight), paint with acrylic model or craft paints. Once dry, seal with Velspar or Testors Gloss coat, and then Testors Dullcoat.

For anime figures, you may wish to use only the Gloss coat.

Henrix19 Jan 2014 3:23 a.m. PST

I had to paint a vinyl figure a little while ago – a commission that turned out to be an absolutely horrid plastic cowboy. I ought to have asked to see the figure first.

I settled with priming with gesso and then using my usual acrylic paints (VMC). Worked like a charm.

MajorB19 Jan 2014 6:08 a.m. PST

DON'T USE ENAMEL PAINT!!!

That's strange. I've been painting figures for over 30 years and never had a problem painting plastic figures with enamel paint and I've not used the dilute PVA primer either. True, I have a few figures where the paint is now flaking off, but they were painted quite a few years ago. Has anyone else ever had a problem with enamel paint on plastic?

Henrix19 Jan 2014 7:11 a.m. PST

When I was a kid I painted soft plastic figures with enamels. It flaked quickly as soon as any part bent.

Cloudy19 Jan 2014 8:28 a.m. PST

I had the same problem with 1/76 & 1/72 soft plastic infantry. They would eventually (or rather quickly at times) lose paint at areas of more extreme flex such as the ankles etc.

ming3119 Jan 2014 9:57 a.m. PST

Vinyl models ( the large hoolw kind ( Screamin and Horizon) do not reccomend enamels ( not drying) . Arcrylics are best . Badger made Freak flex specially designed for these type of models

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