Cacique Caribe | 30 Sep 2013 9:54 a.m. PST |
Maybe it's the meds for my intense back pains, or my ADHD is really acting up
Either way, what do you think of 1) snipping a brick or stone pattern onto metal screen, then 2) heating it (either in an oven or by somehow hooking it up to a hot wire foam cutter), and then 3) lightly pressing the heated screen on a sheet of insulation foam? Then you could 4) cut the now-textured sheet level and to the sizes you want, and 5) clean up any imperfections. Could it work? Or, have I reached a new level of insanity? Or has another madman beat me to the idea, and already tested the concept? Thanks, Dan |
CorSecEng | 30 Sep 2013 10:06 a.m. PST |
My guess would be that your corners would be too rounded. The heat would also need to be strictly controlled. You'd probably get better results using a stencil and spraying a light chemical on them to erode the foam. a buddy of mine works in theater stage design/construction. He uses a similar technique to make field stone or brick for the stage sets. They brush it on. Of course a true brick formation would be problematic because you'd need the bricks to be untouched. A vinyl decal might work. You'd could use transfer tape to apply the bricks without the need for support members between the bricks. |
MrHarold | 30 Sep 2013 10:18 a.m. PST |
I doubt you could keep it hot enough, long enough
I have a feeling the heat would dissipate very quickly and it'd get stuck in the foam
I mean, those foam sheets are insulators after all |
gameorpaint | 30 Sep 2013 10:22 a.m. PST |
You mean using window screen? It seems to me that snipping the extra bits out of a screen and getting them flush would take more time and patience than just scribing the lines into the foam unless you're doing a LOT. Also, most(probably all) metal window screen is aluminum and I suspect it won't have the heating characteristics you'd need anyway. |
Eclectic Wave | 30 Sep 2013 10:26 a.m. PST |
The answer would depend on what scale you are wanting to work at. Go too small and your heating grid will just act as one single heating element and you will end up with just one large square hole. I have extreme doubts it would work at any scale smaller then 54mm. |
NCC1717 | 30 Sep 2013 10:31 a.m. PST |
If you are going to use the blue or pink insulation foam, keep in mind that the fumes will be toxic. |
Mako11 | 30 Sep 2013 11:01 a.m. PST |
I'd recommend just buying some of that thin, styrene sheeting, with the brick patterns already printed on them, and gluing that to the foam, to save time, and prevent heartache/frustration. Shhhh, don't talk so loud, or he'll overhear us. Yes, have the men with the net and the rubber room on standby, just in case
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GROSSMAN | 30 Sep 2013 11:04 a.m. PST |
Step away from the fire
use a pencil or exacto knife to score it with, you can control the depth and pattern size. On the surface I give you 10 points for thinking of this, nice lateral thinking, but not very practical. I have always wanted to use the shelf liner stuff that looks like cobble stones to see what that would look like painted up. Good luck |
WeeSparky | 30 Sep 2013 11:09 a.m. PST |
Press the screen into the foam with an iron on low setting. |
45thdiv | 30 Sep 2013 12:47 p.m. PST |
It will still vent toxic fumes, so do it outside if you decide to go for it. I tend to think it is easier to scribe the brick pattern in. |
account cancelled | 30 Sep 2013 1:36 p.m. PST |
I just see this ending badly. |
John Treadaway | 30 Sep 2013 4:12 p.m. PST |
Alot of this Martian Fort was scribed into pink foam with a pencil
Some of that foam was then cast in resin
Modifications were made using platic padding 2 part epoxy putty and scribed with a scalple while still rubbery
This is various stages of completion throughout these shots
Texture was added with glue and sand
This LotR Amon Sul scenery was entirely made with pink foam arved intocubes with a hotwire cuter or stretches f it scribed with a pencil.
Ok, I did quite big block work (for the 28mm Martian Fort and the 60mm or so LotR, all of the bockwork is about the same size, as it happens: about 30mm by 20mm). But – even so – I'd just scribe and cut the foam
Far easier John T |
Cacique Caribe | 01 Oct 2013 2:45 p.m. PST |
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John Bear Ross | 01 Oct 2013 3:40 p.m. PST |
Are you just looking to texture it for an industrial look, or just disrupt the natural texture of the foam for use as open ground? You could use spray adhesive to glue the metal screen to the foam. You could use drywall tape (fat, tiny grids). You could use spray paint to "corrode" the foam slightly. Maybe use the metal screen as a stencil (everything withers except the material under the screen). For roads, maybe use 600 grain or finer, dark grey sandpaper. Best, JBR |
corporalpat | 02 Oct 2013 4:57 a.m. PST |
Or you could just use these. link Really quick and easy. Versatile too if you add a little imagination. |