"Converting Atlas Edition Warships To Waterline Models?" Topic
8 Posts
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| Cuchulainn | 26 May 2013 10:58 a.m. PST |
I've been collecting this series for some time now and have been thinking about trying to convert a few of them to waterline models to use on the wargames table. Has anyone done this? I'd be interested to know how you did it and if you're pleased with the results. Thanks. :-) |
| SECURITY MINISTER CRITTER | 26 May 2013 11:05 a.m. PST |
Show me some piccies, as I may have some ideas. |
| Cuchulainn | 26 May 2013 1:18 p.m. PST |
Thanks for the response S.M.C. I'll put up some pics tomorrow. |
| Cuchulainn | 27 May 2013 11:26 a.m. PST |
Hmm… not having much luck posting photos. I uploaded them to Flickr, but can't find the codes I need to paste into a message to get them to appear on TMP. Any Flickr users willing to offer some help? |
hindsTMP  | 27 May 2013 3:59 p.m. PST |
link Internet says they're "die cast". Presumably this means some sort of hard metal alloy. If that's the case, I'd say it's not worth it. Based on my experience, it's difficult enough to remove lower hulls when the model is plastic or lead alloy. With a harder substance, any technique I've used would either take too long, damage the model, or both. With the abundance of purpose-built waterline wargame models available these days, you're better off taking the traditional route. MH |
| Cuchulainn | 28 May 2013 9:32 a.m. PST |
Thanks hindsTMP. I was kinda thinking along those lines but hoping someone would prove me wrong. So that's another idea destined for the scrapheap then… :-( |
| Murvihill | 30 May 2013 10:09 a.m. PST |
I'd imagine some patience with a Dremel cutting wheel would work. For the same price though you could get the plastic Airfix set and build both of them plus several more. |
| Trockledockle | 11 Oct 2022 11:44 a.m. PST |
Long time for a reply but I did it last week with a KGV model. I should say that this was bought cheaply as the masts were damaged and it didn't have a display case. The metal can be cut with a hacksaw and is about 2mm thick. I am rather ham fisted and didn't have the right sort of vice so it wasn't cut very straight despite using masking tape. I stuck a plasticard base on the bottom and had to fill gaps with putty but have retained the paint job of the topsides so I'm happy enough with it. Overall, it was probably about the same amount of work as building and painting a kit but the detail is finer than say the Revell KGV. Here's a link to some one who has done it very neatly with the right tools (a Dremmel) and a proper vice. YouTube link Would I do it again? Not on a £30.00 GBP model but on a cheap one, yes. |
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