"Belt or Disc Sander?" Topic

Has anyone used a belt/disc sander to thin the bases on metal m iniatures? Interested in experiences or product recommendations. I'm thinking about this one --
link

Thanks.

I use something very similar to that all the time.
It works really well.
Mine is a Craftsman.

I've also used a Dremel tool.

I have a Delta that's very similar. It works fine, but be SURE you have a good hold on whatever you're working on, or it will, regardless of what it is intended to depict, become an airborne model.

Doug

Thanks. How firm a hold? The belt sanders I'm looking at have 1250 to 2000 feet per second on the belt. I can't findd an adjustable speed except for Micromark's $300 USD model, which is out of my price range. I'm worried that I won't be able to really grip a miniature tight enough to work with it. Can you just grab them in your hand and hold them up to the disk or belt?

I'll echo what Doug said about the potential for a instant projectile object. The figures also get hot very quickly. I use both a disc sander and a belt sander, both with good results.

Variable speed is the key, slow speed and fine belt. Heavy gloves to hold will work and check often to see if your getting more off on one side instead of evenly. Have at it.

Where can I get variable speed? All the models I've looked at list only 1 speed. Thanks.

A variable speed belt sanders may be the cheaper option.

Does anyone know where I can buy a variable speed belt sander?

I have a bench grinder and it works just fine. Slow speed and thins bases quite well.

It's nice to be able to hold whatever you're grinding in vice grips, but of course that may crush a mini.

Doug

Morrigan is correct: a Dremel/moto-tool gives the easiest control. I use a cutting wheel, and 'cut' the flash on the base quickly, easily, with minimal heat; I use glue/epoxy to attach the figure's molded base to the gaming base, so I don't need it to be perfectly flat/level, I just need to eliminate any sprues sticking out. I can hold the miniature in my hand/fingers, and I can control how much metal is removed from where, with very good control.

I had a Ryobi moto-tool for 10+ years. The motor finally burned out. I replaced it with an off-brand from a local DIY store (Menards), for around $30 USD (the Ryobi was a Menards purchase, 10+ years ago, for around $40 USD). Nearly all of the Dremel accessories fit nearly all of the knock-off's, so you can spend less on the moto-tool, and pour the savings into attachments, as needed (heavy-duty cut-off wheels last longer than the regular ones, and if you use two, sandwiched together, they are more durable, and less likely to shatter during use). Cheers!

I use a leather glove when doing that.
Or on certain figs, I use my bare hands. I know I am getting close to getting the base off when the fig gets hot.
Put them on a table for 30 secs and they are cool again.
But, yea. Get a good hold on them!
DO NOT use vicegrips. Those will crush/mangle the fig.

You won't find a bench mount belt or disk sander with variable speed at any sane price. You could build one from parts – motor, speed controller and the wheels and framework to run the belt, but you would need to know what you are doing to match the motor and speed controller. The frame with suitable wheels are available from places like Lee Valley or suppliers of custom knife making gear.

What you may want to look at is getting a hand held belt sander, which often come with variable speeds, and make a mount to clamp it to the bench either upside down or on its side. Some Bosch brand belt sanders come with both variable speed and have provision to use a set of clamps to hold them upside down on a bench (but not all models) – have a look online at the various brands, ask the staff at your local tools supplier (big box or tradesman's suppliers). There are a few DIY sites with free plans for making your own sander cradle too.

Variable speed is controlled by the trigger not on or off. Some have locks at whatever speed it is set. But even not locking I use it upside down on floor one hand to control trigger and one holding wood your working on. Have done this often for lots of different things.