"First regiment for AWI using Perry plastics" Topic

After resisting 15mm Peter Pig AWI infantry for several years, I failed to put the box of Perry plastics back.

I have really immersed myself in this period. It is still overwhelming, but the books you all have recommended, the figures available, and the help on these forums has made it much easier to get up to speed.

The first unit I picked to work on was the 33rd Regiment of foot as they seem to be involved in a large number of battles. I think it would be great to have all the regiments such as Giles, but that will be a long term project. Objective this year is to get at least 5 regiments on each side following John's idea for us Noobs.

Usually, I paint very drab armies such as 15mm WW2 and SAGA vikings. It was refreshing to paint something so different in color.

I am terrible with faces, so I didnt attempt to do eyes or shading. Right now I want to get some regiments on the table to play some games with my son. I also havent figured out what way to go with flags. The Perry box comes with generic flags.

Short term plan is to assemble a battalion of grenadiers (F&D), light infantry (F&D), Guards (F&D), 63rd (plastics), 9th (plastics), and the 23rd (plastics. No idea on what to do with the continentals. I will probably try for the 1st PA continental in green. Below picture I have added a plume of feathers to the slouch hat to represent the 23rd Foot. I used a little foam from the sabot storage trays to get that look. I think I will paint their trousers brown. Any suggestions on a good vallejo brown for the trousers? The figures are a work in progress each representing a different regiment.

Comments would be great on how to improve them as I am now just starting on a second unit. More photos on my blog

link

How to improve: Paint more! Works for me…

Nice job. I'm looking to do the 33rd when I finally get my box of Perrys. Then the 23rd, then, well, you get it…

Eric

I am waiting for bearskins on line infantry before I get more 23rd.
I already did them back in the last century by shaving wngs off Hinchliffe grenadiers.

The 33rd is a good choice. They were a very busy regiment, and I think Cornwalis was their Colonel.

One suggestion.
With all that white on waistcoats and straps, consider using The Dip.

I agree with John, the dip will make average paint jobs look much better as it will bring out the detail in the buttons vests ect.

Good job on the faces, at this scale they are a waste of time in my opinion.

Or a waterdown light grey for the white areas as a wash.

John,
Do mind giving or pointing out a good tutorial on "The Dip"?

Thanks in advance

I actually used the Army Painter soft tone over the entire model. Its visible to the eye, but does not come out in the photos. Probably because I used too much light. However, even to the eye the soft tone doesnt really bring out the details. I usually gloss my tanks and then apply wash. On my 28mm Bolt Action infantry I just apply strong tone to the entire model and it works like a charm.

I think I will try something different and more contrasting to bring out the details. Appreciate the comments.

One question I have is what is hanging at the drummer's neck. A neckerchief of some sort?

The Dip is Minwax, varathane varnish combined with wood stain designed for finishing wooden floors. The color to start with is Tudor Satin, the darkest.

People dip the figure into the can, hence the name. From there I progressed to painting the dip on with a cheap brush – the stuff eats brushes.

I then shifted to using a wash of 4 parts water, 1 part Future floor wax (Kleer in the UK) and black indelible ink. Other folks use different colors such as brown, etc. depending on the colors of the figures they are dipping/washing.

Dip/wash outlines and shades figures. I don't bother with eyes – the wash collects there and makes them darker.

Do a search here for the dip. You should find various threads. It works best on light colored uniforms.

This technique also darkens figures. Sometimes I highlight after the wash is dry to brighten them up.

Paint your cross belts grey. Then run a stripe of regular white down the middle of the belt. That will provide a little depth of field to the white. You can use the sam technique on the trousers. It is basically two-tone painting.

I use Minwax Tudor Satin urethane varnish. I have opnly seen that shade at Ace Hardware.
I brush it on, keeping my brush wet with Testor's Brush Cleaner. I can control it better that way than by dipping.
Let it dry and then spray it with Dullcote or Matte varnish.

Thank you gentlemen.

I used the tip to paint the cross belts grey and then run a little line of white across most of the surface of the belt. Also used a bit more Army Paint Quick Shade soft tone and then went back and added more white where it was too dirty looking.

I have been practicing with these miniatures

F&D Grenadiers for the 33rd Foot

The start of the 23rd Royal Fusiliers

and a couple continental units that are a work in progress

Thanks for all the comments and tips. It has really helped improve the quality of my painting. Most of my experience is with 15mm WW2 and this has been a learning experience. Working with white is something new.

Weland – these are fantastic and, if I may, an enormous improvement on your first photos. Not only have you caught the contours of the faces but the way the leggings are done is very effective. Your experimenting has clearly worked!

Best wishes

Giles

Great to see these very inspirational! I have a bunch of metals I need to paint and it's great to see others working on Perry AWI at the same time.

@ Giles, I really appreciate your comments. Without doubt, I am not alone in using your work as an inspiration for painting these regiments. I have spent hours going through the recommended books Mollo, Troiani, and Smith, but I always head back to your site to view the miniatures and find ideas on how to paint them.

Admiral Yi, the lead and plastic is piling up. Too many awesome figures out there. I broke out the airbrush to help with jackets.

Cheers, Scott

Scott: it is nice to see some of the Fife & Drum figures painted. It looks like they will be compatible with your Perry figures.