| Vespasian28 | 13 Apr 2013 2:16 a.m. PST |
Due to failing eyesight I have been using a black magic(?) wash for the past several months. My next project(15mm) is Later Myceneans who have an awful lot of white clothing compared to all my armies to date. Any advice on whether to stick with black or try a brown wash instead? By the way I am hopelessly old fashioned and still use enamels. |
| normsmith | 13 Apr 2013 3:42 a.m. PST |
Although I prefer acrylics for ease, this might be one of those situations in which the enamel is better. Acrylic offers a substantial tooth and so when a dirty wash goes onto it, it can lock onto the highlights as well as falling into the folds. For this reason, I put a varnish or similar on my figures (particularly white) before adding the dirty wash to protect the acrylic highlights. I am guessing the enamel offers less tooth that the acrylic but it is so long since I used them that it is really just a guess on my part. I generally like the warmth of brown rather than the harshness of black and it seems to help the skin tones a little. |
Dervel  | 13 Apr 2013 4:44 a.m. PST |
I normally use a brown wash or dip for most figures and only a darker one when I have a lot grey tones. The brown looks great on most skin tones and on white. I would suggest it for you Myceneans. At least give it a try on a figure or two to see how you like it. |
| vaughan | 13 Apr 2013 5:47 a.m. PST |
I generally give a white highlight after the wash to bring up the white again. |
| Bob in Edmonton | 13 Apr 2013 6:50 a.m. PST |
One option is to seal with a coat of clear varnish before applying the wash with the colour in it. This prevents the staining effect you are on earned about. |
| Waco Joe | 13 Apr 2013 8:26 a.m. PST |
I'm with Bob. I use the clear Future floor wax that I have as the basis of my washes to first seal the figure. It may still leach a bit but it is better than without it. You might also want to experiment with a color other an black. A dark or dusky blue might give you the same effect without the contrasts. |
IronDuke596  | 13 Apr 2013 9:55 a.m. PST |
You will find that you are certainly not alone when it comes to using enamels. My TMP experience over the past five years or so indicates that there are plenty of TMPers who use enamel paints. For troops who have white trousers or a predominantly white uniform I paint as follows: 1 After finishing the painting
about 24hrs, I start with an enamel gloss or satin spray
you can omit this process if you let the paint dry for 72hrs at least, longer if you can, note- if you don't use the spray, when you come to use the Army Painter you risk smearing some paint, particularly the metal colours, if they have not completely dried; 2 After drying for 24hrs I apply Army Painter Soft Tone with a brush liberally and then draw off the excess wiping the brush frequently, which leaves the shadows and crevices in a brown shade low light. Check each figure for excess accumulation of the AP. Many other painters recommend Min Wax Tudor stain and others but I have not found them satisfactory i.e. too dark. 3. After 24hrs I accessorize/flock the base and then spay with Testors Dull Coat. I find this method efficient, particularly if you have several projects/units in production. Most importantly, your figures are well protected by the AP and the sprays. |
| morrigan | 13 Apr 2013 1:44 p.m. PST |
I would use a brown wash. Like Waco Joe, I seal with a straight coat of Future first. |
| Vespasian28 | 13 Apr 2013 3:26 p.m. PST |
Thank you all for the advice and excellent tips. Much appreciated. |
| Vespasian28 | 15 May 2013 9:27 a.m. PST |
A quick supplementary question. Decided on Daler-Rowney FW inks. Go for the sepia or are there any other recommendations? Quite big bottles so would rather pick one recommended than expensive trial and error. |
| Sgt Slag | 16 May 2013 6:15 a.m. PST |
I'm with the other posters: dark brown, over black, any day. I use both Magic Wash, and The Dip [Royal Walnut (Dark Brown), not Tudor (Black)]. I would also suggest you use a couple of test figures, first, to see if you like the final effect -- there is no easy way to undo the Magic Wash, once applied, unless you work very fast
Cheers! |
| phil bagnall | 16 May 2013 7:23 a.m. PST |
Don't know the colours in the FW range I'm afraid, but I use Winsor & Newton Peat Brown ink for my Future wash (after clear coat if I'm patient enough for reasons above). Theres a little hint of red in peat brown, it really seems to intensify reds as well as doing the shading |
| flipper | 17 May 2013 1:43 p.m. PST |
Hi I have had good results using a vallejo flesh wash on a white undercoat – I mix the vallejo wash with a 50/50 mix of water/floor polish. The result for ancients would be the figures flesh is pretty well covered (as in coloured to a finish) along with any leather, spears and such – I used this with French Napoleonics infantry in campaign attire and it meant I had all the flesh, muskets, backpacks, footwear, shako covers done in one go. In certain cases I would also follow up this initial wash with a darker Vallejo sepia or even black to fill out the deeper crevices and add a further touch of shade. See here for more (not my blog BTW!): link |