
"Dipping Questions!" Topic
9 Posts
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| Ethanjt21 | 22 Mar 2013 6:21 p.m. PST |
So I am back from Lowes where I picked up a can of: Minwax Polyshades Stain & Polyurethane in 1 Step Classic Black Satin 395 Got it for 7 bucks with a 50% off manufacturer coupon First off, is this the correct stuff? Second, should I wear gloves? Third, is it best to do it outside as the can suggests? Fourth, what is the approx dry time? |
chuck05  | 22 Mar 2013 7:06 p.m. PST |
My understanding is that Minwax Polyshades Satin Tudor is the one that is used. Its a really dark brown. The only place Ive found it is at ACE hardware. I brush on the dip rather than dunk the figures in the can. Gloves would be recomended. There are some long lasting fumes as the figures dry. You may want to keep the figures in the garage as they dry. I let my figures dry for at least a day. |
| Ethanjt21 | 22 Mar 2013 7:56 p.m. PST |
Well , at least it was 7 bucks, I guess I could put the finish on the kitchen chairs and table and keep using Magic Wash lol ;/ |
chuck05  | 23 Mar 2013 5:07 a.m. PST |
Try it out on some extra figures and see how it looks. If you play games that use armored vehicles you could use it on those too. |
| timlillig | 23 Mar 2013 5:48 a.m. PST |
Here is a very good article on using Minwax Polyshades from my club's blog. link The writer might be around to answer questions later. |
| JRacel | 23 Mar 2013 7:41 a.m. PST |
I tried the black at one point and found it to be VERY dark and far too opaque for dipping without needing to thin it. Please use a test figure first so you don't ruin anything. I used to use Tudor before moving to Army Painter Dark Tone because it was easier to find and I could live with the price for how much use I got out of it with 15mm figures. Just test first since I think the black is going to be far too much. Best of luck. Jeff |
John the OFM  | 23 Mar 2013 8:10 a.m. PST |
I use Tudor Satin, and yes, from ACE Hardware. DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN. Stir it with a screwdriver, and hold the blister that you wish to get your stain from over the can while you dip the stuff out with same screwdriver. DO NOT get any in the channel where you seal the lid. This will come back to haunt you later when it makes the seal problematic, and you end up with a half inch layer of polymerized urethane hockey puck goo on top of the rapidly declining mess in the can. (Throw it out then, it's not worth saving.) Tap the can's lid shut with the screwdriver. I dip my brush in Testors Brush Cleaner, just to keep it wet, and then dip from the dip. Paint it on the figure, cleaning up pooled up stuff with the brush. You don't need masks or anything, and clean your fingers with the Brush cleaner. Let dry for 24 hours before you Dullcote or use Krylon Matte Finish. It's actually safe to touch within 20 minutes, but it's best to not take any chances of pooled stuff not quite dry yet and getting fingerprints in it. |
| doc mcb | 23 Mar 2013 11:44 a.m. PST |
John is correct about the need to keep the can's lid tight. I use it in large quantities on terrain pieces so work straight from the can, but try very hard to get all the liquid out of the groove, using a small stick and paper towel. As to how much to stir it, you have to experiment. the dark pigment will settle some, so the more you stir the darker it is, of course. Above all, TEST before you put it on anything irreplaceable. |
Bobgnar  | 23 Mar 2013 6:55 p.m. PST |
Do not use black. It will turn your figure black. Tudor is the best all-around option, lighter ones also work for various things like white. Satin is good, use the classic black if that's what it is black for other things like maybe buildings Or terrain but thin it a bit with mineral spirits. |
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