| Ken Portner | 22 Mar 2013 9:05 a.m. PST |
I used to dutifully glue my figures to popsicle sticks, paint them and then pop them off to mount them on their bases. Recently I've been painting figures singly mounted, and so dispensed with the popsicle sticks and just painted them right on the base. That got me thinking, why not just paint multi-based figures on their bases as well? So I tried it with some NVA figures based for FOW Vietnam. I also used my airbrush to give them all a base coat of khaki after priming them, then did the details. This worked out ok. It wasn't as hard to get at the corners, sides, etc. as I'd thought it would be. Now I have to admit that I feel a bit ashamed to be doing things this way, but the results look pretty good to me and it's certainly quicker. Does anyone else do it this way? Do you also feel ashamed? |
| snodipous | 22 Mar 2013 9:18 a.m. PST |
I followed the same progression as you, with my WW2 FoW minis: originally I painted them individually, but eventually I decided to try painting them already based. I found it worked just fine. It can be hard to reach some spots on the minis when there are 5 of them on a base, but the parts that are hard to reach will be hard to see as well, so it all comes out in the wash. |
| Mapleleaf | 22 Mar 2013 9:28 a.m. PST |
I do both depending on the complexity of the paint job and how close the figures will be to each other. |
| Militia Pete | 22 Mar 2013 9:53 a.m. PST |
Nope. Still popsicle sticks |
| richarDISNEY | 22 Mar 2013 9:57 a.m. PST |
I never use Popsicle sticks or something similar. I only 'paint on the base'. I guess I'm the weird one
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79thPA  | 22 Mar 2013 10:34 a.m. PST |
I've never painted on the base; it just seems odd to me. |
| ming31 | 22 Mar 2013 10:36 a.m. PST |
Not on the base , alows for easier painting |
| Warwick13 | 22 Mar 2013 10:39 a.m. PST |
Always on the base. If it I can't paint it under there, you can't see it on the table. |
| leidang | 22 Mar 2013 10:41 a.m. PST |
Varies. Most of the time I find it easier on popsicle sticks. Although I am a stickler for painting everything well. Even if it cannot easily be seen on the tabletop. My OCD will not allow it to be any other way. |
| nazrat | 22 Mar 2013 10:58 a.m. PST |
Only ever on the base, and generally 40+ models at a time (roughly a platoon's worth plus support). |
| Ron W DuBray | 22 Mar 2013 11:03 a.m. PST |
well all my 1000s of 28mm minis were painted on the base, everything smaller were painted on a stick and moved to a base. |
| Woolshed Wargamer | 22 Mar 2013 11:16 a.m. PST |
I use Bluetac and stick the figure to an old wooden cotton reel. I find it easier to manipulate the model with my fat fingers. |
John the OFM  | 22 Mar 2013 11:30 a.m. PST |
99% of the time on the base. The only time I do not is when the base is not large enough to let me get at everything. 3 figures on a WRG/DBM base, fine. 3 figures on a 2" wide base, that's tight. So, I paint the two end ones, and glue the middle one in later. |
John the OFM  | 22 Mar 2013 11:31 a.m. PST |
I do not feel ashamed, BTW. I have done it this way for 40+ years. |
GildasFacit  | 22 Mar 2013 11:33 a.m. PST |
I paint nothing larger than 10mm and usually horse & musket or earlier periods so the figures are too tightly packed to paint on their bases. |
| mjkerner | 22 Mar 2013 12:05 p.m. PST |
I don't have any multiple-based figs, but I always have painted on the base. I used to complete the basing after the fig was done; lately I've reversed that and complete the base first(drybrushing the base after painting would inevitably get some on the figs' legs). |
| freerangeegg | 22 Mar 2013 12:05 p.m. PST |
I can see you could paint 28mm on bases, however I paint mainly 15mm and 6mm figs and mount them on 12" strips of plastic track for glass doors. I always paint figures on this ,varnish them and then mount them on their bases, do the ground, and then recoat with varnish. How do you reach all the twiddly bits if you paint them on multifigure bases? |
| nazrat | 22 Mar 2013 12:14 p.m. PST |
Veeeery carefully! But doable! |
| Rrobbyrobot | 22 Mar 2013 12:16 p.m. PST |
I base my figures individually on magnets and use metal plates for units of such. So no to your original question. If I were to do as you have with just as good results I'd feel no guilt at all. Don't worry! Be happy! |
| Big Red | 22 Mar 2013 12:19 p.m. PST |
Always off the base and I'm older than John the OFM. |
| Bashytubits | 22 Mar 2013 12:27 p.m. PST |
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| Yesthatphil | 22 Mar 2013 1:54 p.m. PST |
Both
it depends on the figures, and on the density. Phil |
| Dale Hurtt | 22 Mar 2013 2:43 p.m. PST |
You beat me to the punch. I just started trying this with 6mm science fiction troops – so they are spread out a little bit like FoW troops would be – and found that although some spots might be a little hard to reach, it was also hard to see. As someone said "it comes out in the wash", my comment would be "it disappears in the wash
the paint wash!" Given a wash/shade really does help mask those little hard-to-reach spots that you could not hit directly with a brush. And if it is on an underside, it looks like a proper shadow. |
| Bumper57 | 22 Mar 2013 2:45 p.m. PST |
I paint my fiqures HOT GLUED to a nailhead very easy to turn flip or whatever.When done stick in BLUEBOARD to dry |
| Lardie the Great | 22 Mar 2013 2:48 p.m. PST |
If the figures are based singularly, painted on the base, if in multiples hot glued (singularly) onto a cork, painted, then based. |
Virtualscratchbuilder  | 22 Mar 2013 3:15 p.m. PST |
99% on the base. Only thing I ever painted on the stick were ECW figs that got sprayed with Army Painter red or blue primer. |
| vojvoda | 22 Mar 2013 3:31 p.m. PST |
On pins and needles depending on the scale. For the most part 25/18 get mounted caps or individual bases depending on the game. I never paint rank and file troops in scale above 12mm not on craft sticks or something else. No mass produced armies here, I am an artist! VR James Mattes |
| Dynaman8789 | 22 Mar 2013 4:53 p.m. PST |
I hot glue to a nailhead as well, very easy to reach any part that needs painting. After painting I can dip the whole figure in a cup of shading and spin the nail to get rid of the excess. Easy to get them off the nail after as well. |
| Martin Rapier | 23 Mar 2013 8:04 a.m. PST |
Depends on the scale. 2mm on the base, 6mm off the base, 15mm on the base (for twentieth century figures anyway), 20mm off the base. In general. |
| Evil Bobs Miniature Painting | 23 Mar 2013 8:14 a.m. PST |
Sticks whenever possible. |
| CeruLucifus | 23 Mar 2013 12:38 p.m. PST |
Most of mine are 25/28mm on slot bases or attached to slot bases for consistency. I usually prep the base with a magnet, then stick the figure on and paint it that way. The magnet holds it onto various metal holders (jar lids, whatever); sometimes I use a finger to hold it in place while painting. Big advantage is once the figure's on a base, you can use it in a game even if not finished. |
| coopman | 24 Mar 2013 7:14 a.m. PST |
I recently started attaching individual 25mm figures to soda bottle caps with blue-tack for painting. Never tried this before, but I think that it will work just fine. |
| John B | 26 Mar 2013 5:48 a.m. PST |
For 15 mm scale, I use a nail board. Photos and materials described on my blog, here: link For 28 mm, I paint on the base but use a hand vise to help hold the figure steady. Info here: link John B TabletopHistory.blogspot.com |
| CeruLucifus | 29 Mar 2013 8:31 p.m. PST |
John B, are those hand vises a common hardware store item? I don't think I've noticed them before. Are they sold with a particular type of tool? |
| John B | 01 Apr 2013 6:07 a.m. PST |
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| CeruLucifus | 03 Apr 2013 9:40 p.m. PST |
Oh that's nice, thanks. I'll check the jewelry section next time I'm in a crafts store. Have seen similar on people's home shop web sites, but not at a hardware store. |